[Brad from Lasalle]

Good day all, I am looking for some assistance with a current FI system reinstallation project for a 1980 z1 classic I acquired in the fall of 2022. I would love any pictures of the z1 classic fuel injection wire harness routing, especially to the black and white connectors to the relay under the left side cover. I am reinstalling the fuel injection system back in this bike but the Clymer’s manual doesn’t show that level of detail. I managed to get everything reinstalled but I don’t think the wiring is routed as it should be. I am also asking if anyone knows if the fuel pump should kick on once the key is turned on or if it needs to be cranking? In either case I am not hearing anything from the pump at this time. I disconnected the electrical connector to the pump and put 12v to the orange/blue wire and grounded the black/yellow wire. Still no sound from the fuel pump. The pump feed connector comes off the relay under the left cover which comes from the main brain computer. I am assuming it is a 12v feed to the pump but could be wrong on that?
My next step is to remove the pump and see if there is a way to check the electrical portion. All of these components have been sitting in a box since 1994 so who knows what they have been through. The original owner had a dealership swap in carbs back in 1994 as the FI system was not performing well. He said they told him it could be a throttle position sensor or the computer. I am trying this all out because I want to restore it to its original condition if possible. I will attach a few pictures to this as well as this bike is really clean and was well taken care of.

 

[martin-csr]

I would consider getting the Kawasaki FSM, but it may not have the pics you need. You'd have to get the KZ1000 base manual plus the KZ1000-G1 Supplement Manual. I'm not sure what manual serves as the base manual, but probably the 77-80 KZ1000 FSM. There are a couple of G1 supplement manuals on EB & one of them is about $30T. Good luck.

edit: the G1 supplement indicates that the base manual is FSM P/N 99924-1006-03, and there's also an EFI troubleshooting manual 99963-0031-01.

 

[Kawasakian]

If that bike is running well, you could get it running fantastic w with the carbs. Many of those fuel injection parts aren't available anymore. The bike was kind of ahead of it's time. Want super performance, put a set of flat slides carbs on it.

 

[WFO-KZ]

First off, that's a gorgeous bike and looks to be in near mint condition and well worth putting a few $$ and hours of labour into it.

I would +1 the comment by Martin to get the factory service manuals and I would +1 what Kawasakian says about keeping the carbs because OEM FI parts are NLA. No point going to all the trouble of hooking all the FI gear up and then finding it needs parts that cannot be sourced.

Generally speaking the carbs should be easier to fix and get parts for. But whatever you decide I think we all want to see you succeed. Keep us posted please.

PS- Check the date on the tires. Old, hard rubber is not safe.

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

If that bike is running well, you could get it running fantastic w with the carbs. Many of those fuel injection parts aren't available anymore. The bike was kind of ahead of it's time. Want super performance, put a set of flat slides carbs on it.

the bike as I bought it does/did have carbs on it. I was liking the opportunity to try and get the FI working, knowing I can go back to the carbs if it doesn’t work out. attached a pic of the carbs I removed.

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

First off, that's a gorgeous bike and looks to be in near mint condition and well worth putting a few $$ and hours of labour into it.

I would +1 the comment by Martin to get the factory service manuals and I would +1 what Kawasakian says about keeping the carbs because OEM FI parts are NLA. No point going to all the trouble of hooking all the FI gear up and then finding it needs parts that cannot be sourced.

Generally speaking the carbs should be easier to fix and get parts for. But whatever you decide I think we all want to see you succeed. Keep us posted please.

PS- Check the date on the tires. Old, hard rubber is not safe.

The tires look great on this bike but they are very old and hard. Any suggestions on where to source the raised white lettering tires any more? Always a challenge to find them for me.

 

[WFO-KZ]

You can order tires from the dealer. Rear tire part number is
41021-072
But you would have to ask if they still come with white lettering. I have no idea. How good are you with a tiny paintbrush?

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

Update on my quest to get the fuel injection system working. Got it all installed then had to tear apart the fuel pump and free up the stuck dc brushes, clean up the armature and commutator and get the back flow preventer valve working on the exit port. The bike started! Omg I am floored by this. All parts have been off the bike in a couple of cardboard boxes since 1994. Issue now is it starts and revs up to 4000 then holds that for about 45-60 seconds and then dies off and stalls. Can restart it after a few tries and it does the same. i removed the throttle position sensor connector while it was at 4000rpm and it stalled out. reconnected and restarted the bike. It does the same thing revs up and dies off. tried to adjust the throttle cable at the grip and at the thumb wheel idle adjuster but it didn’t go any lower. Anyone have any suggestions on possible root cause for the high idle and die off?

 

[Kawasakian]

Can you post a picture of the circuit board?

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

Can you post a picture of the circuit board?

Sure , which board are you looking to see? the computer one inside the black box or the air flow sensor?

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

Sure , which board are you looking to see? the computer one inside the black box or the air flow sensor?

Here are all the electronics pics

 

[Kawasakian]

Wow! That is old technology. The disc capacitors never go bacd but the vertical ones do. Great Pictures. I don't know if that has an EEPROM, I would guess that it does, which means, even if you fixed every component, you would have to be able to program it. I think you're out of luck. I think that's why people don't fix these.

This article may give you an out though.

Kawasaki z1000G and H EFI/DFI systems

A guide to early Kawasaki fuel injection as used in the 1980 z1000G and H models. This information has been derived from personal investigation of my own z1000g motorcycle and the assistance of the…

z900collector.wordpress.com

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

update on progress. The high idle was due to the fast idle lever being down and not pulled up…duh… yesterday I started it to let it run outside, after about 7-8 mins of idling the thing started to die and back fire , tried to give it throttle but no response. It had no guts at all. My son tried to ride it but it couldn’t hold an idle or run over 2000rpm. I tested the injectors and they were all squirting. Today I put a pressure regulator on the line off the pump before the fuel rail and I got 18psi, pulled the pump out and tested it on the bench, got 23 psi there with it dead heading. Both numbers seem low. Thinking it’s a fuel pump issue. If it is, does anyone have a suggestion on a replacement pump ? I pulled the pump apart but I don’t see anything obvious. When I run the pump with the Dc power supply at 12v it gets 23, when I turn up the voltage to 15v I get 34psi. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Kawasakian]

You can buy after market pumps for any pressure. Amazon has a ton of listings for fuel pumps. I have so done many different kinds on MG's, Merdeces Benz's, and many other cars, I just go by how many lbs. pressure is needed. The ones I buy have internal cut offs when pressure is reached. Yours in mounted on the outside, you should easily be able to find a pump with the rights lbs to fit it, it only has to leads going to it, so you need a pump with a built in pressure gauge.

 

[WFO-KZ]

Do you have the service manual that would tell you what the pressures should be?

Also, a healthy battery will have at least 12.8 volts and the battery will be charged at up to 14 volts by your voltage regulator.

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

I read online it needed to be between 32 and 34 psi which is why I think I may need a new pump. i need to also check that the alternator is charging the battery. But I need the bike to be able to run to do that... catch 22.

 

[Brad from Lasalle]

You can buy after market pumps for any pressure. Amazon has a ton of listings for fuel pumps. I have so done many different kinds on MG's, Merdeces Benz's, and many other cars, I just go by how many lbs. pressure is needed. The ones I buy have internal cut offs when pressure is reached. Yours in mounted on the outside, you should easily be able to find a pump with the rights lbs to fit it, it only has to leads going to it, so you need a pump with a built in pressure gauge.

Would you have any suggested brand or model # if I need up to 35psi only.

 

[Kawasakian]

Is that .psi or gph because 35 psi is what's used on 700 hp v8 engines. I did find a new O.E.M. one, but it's over $750 dollars. On the low level side of that fuel pump is a brass screen that gets clogged, and buggers the fuel pump. If that screen is completely clogged, you could run that bike by putting a in line filter in line, it's the gravity fed side, and just rely on the huge filter that goes to the fuel injection. You could bench test this.

 

[Kawasakian]

O.K., just found it should be 36 to 42 p.s.i.

 

[Kawasakian]

Check out the list of pumps. You may have to use a fuel pump regulator to lower the pressure. There's a British site that says they have the original ones in stock, but they cost almost $700 bucks, without shipping. This won't be plug and play, what your doing here. Some of those pumps go up to 60 psi, they would need a regulator to bring the pressure down, and you would need a fuel pressure gauge to check it. I have one, they're around $100 bucks. Personally, I'd convert that bike to flat slides carbs, and make a beast out of it.

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