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The short spring goes closest to the engine and if you order it from your Kawi dealer or a place like Partzilla by its part number, you will get the correct spring.

Here is a link to the spring that you need. Brand new OEM for $4.31

If you order it through a Kawi dealer, they don't charge shipping so you save even more.
Partzilla uses Kawi part numbers so you can easily order it from the Kawi dealer using the same number.

 

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Just to be clear, the spring does not go inside the engine and therefore cannot fall into the engine unless someone assembled it incorrectly.

The spring fits into the bore on the engine side of the bearing and rests on a small shoulder at the bottom of the bore. If you study the diagram in post #94 you will see that the spring is labelled as #2 and the bearing is labelled as #5. The ONLY part of the tensioner that enters the inside of the engine is the push rod #1.

If your bore does not have a shoulder at the bottom of the bore, then someone has installed the incorrect tensioner onto this bike. I know it is hard to look into the bore with the engine still in the frame but if you gently slide a wooden or plastic dowel, down the side of the bore, you should feel it bottom out on the shoulder. After it bottoms out, move the dowel off the shoulder and it should then slide in a long ways until it hits the chain guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
This looks about right. Also looks like I'm missing the flat washer. Guess I'll have to pick one up for it. My brother is bringing me a torque wrench tomorrow that I can use for the head cover. I'll see about getting the replacement spring and flat washer today. After that I can set the timing, get the bike back together, and see if I can get it started. Once that's done, I will tune it and also probably take apart the front brake assembly to flush out all the rust and crap. I'm also ordering a new master cylinder since the current one seems to have some piston leakage and it's cheaper than getting a rebuild kit (at least from what I've been able to find, which is ironic but whatever).

After I get this running right, I can get back to work, earn some more money, and get the stuff for a proper rebuild/refresh on the engine and everything. I'm also thinking about upgrading to an antigravity battery with the restart feature. I'll probably fabricate a custom battery box for that so it doesn't slide around. Besides, my current battery box is a little rusted out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
Sooo...I got the spring and everything is in but...the bike won't turn over. Starter acts like it wants to try but it just clicks. Even tried jumping the starter directly and nothing. Tried jumping the bike off with my nephew's truck and nothing. Starter just clicks no matter what I do. I'm thinking it's either a bad ground or the starter is on it's way out. My guess is the latter since it turned over just fine before. I've tried locating a rebuild kit for the starter but I haven't had any luck finding a match. There's a ton of caltric ones that say they fit but they're all different.

Tried locating a replacement starter and no luck there either other than a couple of complete engine assemblies on ebay. (I asked the sellers if they were willing to just sell me the starter so I didn't have to pay over $200 in freight charges and they said no...so whatever.) I'm half-tempted to just give up on this whole engine entirely and just buy a better engine...if that's even possible. Looked at a kz400 engine with a kickstarter and a kz440ltd engine (w/o kickstart) but I'm not sure if they would even mount up to this bike properly...and that's assuming they even work.

If someone here is willing to find one for me, I would gladly buy it or they could buy it and I would buy it off them or trade them for something 3d printed or whatever.

EDIT:
I'm not sure if any starters from other models would fit but if there's an easier starter to get ahold of that will work for my bike, I will gladly get that. I don't care about numbers matching at this point. I only care about the bike actually working and running under it's own power.
This :poop: is so frustrating. :(
 

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Ok if the engine turns over easily by hand then it certainly looks like a starter issue.

Did you jump the solenoid with a nice heavy piece of copper wire or something than can conduct high current?
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
Ok if the engine turns over easily by hand then it certainly looks like a starter issue.

Did you jump the solenoid with a nice heavy piece of copper wire or something than can conduct high current?
I did and it just does the same thing. Starter just clicks like it wants to try but can't get a single rotation in.

EDIT:
The starter motor physically moves when I try to turn the bike over with it. It barely moves up when it's being engaged. I didn't notice it until now and only because I had my face right next to the starter motor when I pressed the button. Not sure if that would make a difference but it's a very loud click from the starter when I press the button. Also, the battery voltage reads 12.83v until I try to start the bike. It drops down to 6.53v while I have the start button pressed.
 

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Yeah, that's the pinion end. I wonder if that movement is enough to jam the gears? Have you had the cover off to see what is going on with the gears? I don't know if that bearing is replaceable. Kawi does not show it separately.

Have you tried these guys?

 

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Discussion Starter · #115 · (Edited)
Yeah, that's the pinion end. I wonder if that movement is enough to jam the gears? Have you had the cover off to see what is going on with the gears? I don't know if that bearing is replaceable. Kawi does not show it separately.

Have you tried these guys?

I have not... on both counts. I'll check out the link. Is it possible that the starter clutch froze up inside the case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 · (Edited)
Yeah, that's the pinion end. I wonder if that movement is enough to jam the gears? Have you had the cover off to see what is going on with the gears? I don't know if that bearing is replaceable. Kawi does not show it separately.

Have you tried these guys?

I checked out the link provided and had to contact them for the availability and price for the starter. This is the transcript of the chat session with them:

>Victor Clary
yes, I'm trying to find out the price and availability for item 1868N
(Kawasaki Street Motorcycle Starter Motor Replacement for Mitsuba Pmdd, 0.4kw/12 Volt, Ccw, 18687n, Kawasaki 21163-1131, 21163-1199)

OBB Sales Team Member 2003
Hello, how may I help you?
Sorry but this part is no longer available. Looks like it's not being made and there are no remanufactured parts or replacements available.

Chat session ended
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So That was a bust. I've found a couple of starters on eBay for my bike...but they're attached to entire engines and the sellers refuse to sell them separately. Basically, that means that I would have to pay the freight shipping to get them. I've looked at the freight quotes for those engines and it comes up to almost $250. The engines are going for about 220 and 250 respectively. Total is about $500 give or take. I could sell the entire bike for that price and just get a different bike. 😑

Edit: I'll be taking the stator cover off today to see if I can see anything with the gears.
 

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I would create an Ebay watchlist for the Kawi part number that you need and then wait for a hit.

Taking the cover off should help zero in on the problem. If the starter is truly bad, you have nothing to lose by taking it apart to see if that bearing can be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)

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Your starter part numbers are unique, but that does not mean it won't fit. However when you look at the end cap O rings they have different part numbers. This likely indicates that the starter casings are different diameters and that could mean it won't fit.

The overall length is probably the same because the screws that hold the starter together are the same length. The idler gear that meshes with your pinion is the same part number, so that's good.

The only way to know for sure is to try it, unless a member here knows the answer.
 
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