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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Your starter part numbers are unique, but that does not mean it won't fit. However when you look at the end cap O rings they have different part numbers. This likely indicates that the starter casings are different diameters and that could mean it won't fit.

The overall length is probably the same because the screws that hold the starter together are the same length. The idler gear that meshes with your pinion is the same part number, so that's good.

The only way to know for sure is to try it, unless a member here knows the answer.
This makes me wonder if I can Frankenstein it together. Basically just use the pinion cap from my current starter and swap it onto the one on eBay. I guess it's worth a shot at least. It's not like I'll be spending $100+ on it anyway.
 

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True but you will feel bad when you pull the side cover and find that the real problem was a piece of metal jamming the gear train which would mean there is nothing wrong with your starter. I would pull the side cover first and have a really good look at what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
True but you will feel bad when you pull the side cover and find that the real problem was a piece of metal jamming the gear train which would mean there is nothing wrong with your starter. I would pull the side cover first and have a really good look at what is going on.
So I finally got around to working on the bike again and I pulled the stator cover off like you suggested. There wasn't any metal or anything lodged in the gears or anything but just for the sake of testing, I turned on the bike and hit the start button with the stator cover off. It turned over perfectly. Seems like I didn't put the stator cover on as straight as I should have before and it was binding up the starter idler gear. 😅

Now All I have to do is sort out the fuel leak that's coming from the fuel inlet tee on the carbs and then I'll see about trying to get it started from there. Only waited this long to start working on the bike again because I was waiting for some new upgraded replacement bolts to come in from z1 enterprises. No more dealing with the stupid Phillips head bolts that like to strip out. Already had to drill the head off of one just to get the stator cover off again. Now I have some shiny new chrome Allen bolts 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
And, of course, yet another problem. Engine is only getting 50 psi out of both cylinders. (They tested exactly the same.) Should be around 150-180 as I understand it. :cry: This bike hates me, I swear. Every time I get close to getting it going, it throws something bigger at me. I have some new feeler gauges coming in to test the valve clearances. (My feeler gauges disappeared somewhere.) I'm hoping that all I need to do is set the valves but with how low the compression tested, I'm not sure if that's all it would be. Seeing how this has been going so far, I'm going to hazard a guess and say that the pistons and/or rings are trashed. If that's the case, I think I'm just going to aquire another engine and just do a strait swap. I'm now wondering if an engine from a kz440 ltd would fit into this frame. The mounting points look the same but there's a few differences that concern me such as the fact that the timing chain tensioner faces the front of the engine on the 440 vs the 305 one facing the rear. I'll gladly do some fabrication to make it work if I have to providing that it won't interfere with the frame's structural integrity. I've already located a running engine from a kz440 ltd. I'm just waiting to pull the trigger on it until I know for sure that the 305 engine is trashed. (I'm saying trashed because I can't really do a rebuild of the engine since I'm not skilled enough to do that and there aren't any shops around me that I can take the bike to to get the work required done.)
 

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It's an old bike and will need work. However, before you throw in the towel on the entire engine consider this.

Engines that have been stored for long periods of time can end up with stuck compression rings on the pistons that will cause low compression readings.

The first thing to try is to add a couple of teaspoons of oil into each cylinder and run the compression test again. If you see an improvement in compression this means the rings are the cause. This does not guarantee that the issue is stuck rings as it could be worn out rings but with compression numbers this low, I would lean towards stuck rings.

There are ways to free up stuck rings without taking the engine apart, but lets park that for now until we hear about your compression results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
It's an old bike and will need work. However, before you throw in the towel on the entire engine consider this.

Engines that have been stored for long periods of time can end up with stuck compression rings on the pistons that will cause low compression readings.

The first thing to try is to add a couple of teaspoons of oil into each cylinder and run the compression test again. If you see an improvement in compression this means the rings are the cause. This does not guarantee that the issue is stuck rings as it could be worn out rings but with compression numbers this low, I would lean towards stuck rings.

There are ways to free up stuck rings without taking the engine apart, but lets park that for now until we hear about your compression results.
Wouldn't cranking the engine over cause more damage to the compression rings in that case? Because I've cranked it over about 10 or 12 times. I'm hoping that I haven't completely screwed it up in doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
You won't hurt a thing as long as there is oil in the crankcase. Just don't add too much oil into the cylinder when you do your test. You don't want a hydraulic lock.
In that case, I think I'll start with just one teaspoon in each cylinder. I've only turned it over without oil in the crank once and that was by hand after I had just drained the oil the first time I took off the stator cover.

Edit: I'm pretty sure there was still some residual oil in there since it was still dripping out when I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
You won't hurt a thing as long as there is oil in the crankcase. Just don't add too much oil into the cylinder when you do your test. You don't want a hydraulic lock.
So, I was finally able to get around to the bike again, did the compression test again with a bit of oil in each cylinder as instructed, and the compression raised exponentially and held. I think you might be right in the assumption that the rings are stuck. Now, about that method to unstick them without tearing apart the engine...I would love to hear more about it. :unsure:

EDIT (for clarification) - The compression raised up to around 125 or 130-ish just in case those numbers are helpful to know.
 
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