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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, first post and I was wondering if anybody can help before I invest in a nice classic twin shock GPz750. Having viewed the bike, I noticed a couple of potential problems:

1. There is a slight cam chain rattle at idle, which disapears as soon as you pick the revs up. I am told that 'they all do this', but can any of you knowledgable guys confim?

2. The LED display flahes the low fuel warning light regardless of how much fuel there is -easy fix or a new set of clocks?

I'm hoping these issues are not a problem, and all being well will introduce myself properly with pics of my UK GPz750.

Many thanks,

Phil
 

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I have your bikes bigger brother, a 1982 GPz1100 B2 with the Fi system. Our bikes are similar in size and color.

Some good websites for parts:
1.kawasaki vintage motorcycle part, kawasaki classic motorcycle, streetfighter part, motor bike part - AmericanClassix.com
2.Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts
3.APE
4.KZ Zone
5.DYNOMAN PERFORMANCE - motorcycle performance products

This is but a partial list as it is broken down by subject matter.If you want the total list, send me a personal message..........

As for answers:

1.Replace the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one and the noise should go away.

2. There is a float inside the gas tank that moves a variable resistor, I believe after removing a black plastic cover, six fasteners are seen, remove them and carefully tug on the assembly and remove it for inspection.A rubber gasket seals the float assembly against the gas tank(Petrol for you Brits).
Before removing the flat assembly, check the wiring going to it for corrosion/loose connections.
 

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Biker Chef
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Is it cam chain rattle, or primary chain rattle? On all the 750's, mine included, the primary chain will slap around a bit when the engine is cold. With proper valve clearancesand synched carbs, when the engine gets warm you won't hear a sound. If it is the cam chain rattling, you can always get a manuel cam chain tensioner. Myself, I keep the automatic one on my Gpz always clean and lubed. I check it every 10,000km.

As for the low fuel light, check to make sure the plug leading from the tank is clean and plugged in firmly. I found with mine, I have to keep a nylon zip tie keeping it snugly closed, or even a shade of movement and the display will do as you mention, flash empty. If this is not the case with yours, then check the sending unit from the fuel float in the tank.
 

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itching to ride
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If my bike's engine ever gets quiet at idle I will get worried. The valves should make a bit of tapping because you have some clearance between cam and followers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks very much for all the hint, advice and the links. The bike runs real nice, and the rattle sounds like it could be cured easily enough. I appreciate you can't hear the bike, but it puts my mind at rest that there is plenty of good advice available!
I think I shall go ahead and buy it, so it will not be last you hear from me!
Thanks again,
Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The bike has done 42,000 miles. Around the 38k mark the top end was stripped, bores rehoned and new rings, cam chain replaced etc....but I only have the sellers word, there are no receipts! If its still running the standard tensioner, I think I may go for the manual one as suggested. Thanks again all,
Phil
 

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Old bike guy
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I have a 1982 GPZ 750 (see pictures in another earlier post if you want to see what it looks like) and it, too, is noisy at idle/low RPM with the sound goingaway as soon as the RPMs are brought up even slightly. When I originally heard it, I asked the same question that you are and was told they all do that. Well, mine does, too! I may, one day, change out the auto tensioner for a manual one to se if that affects the noise, though. As to you question about the low fuel problem...mine had that, too. It turned out to be the plug under the tank that connects the output of the stuff in the tank to the rest of the bike. Mine was not really tightly together and, if I recal correctly, it doesn't even have a clip or catch or anything that holds it all together. I did a couple of things to fix it and don't know for sure which actually did the trick ( I know...poor trouble shooting procedure! Never fix or change more than one thing at time...!) One was to clean that connector and the contacts out as well as I could and put a dab of dielectric grease in it. The second was to be sure to check that it was tightly pushed back together so that good contact was made. The problem went away.

I do, however have a strange problem with the charge light flashing at low RPM. It goes away at about 2500 RPM or so, but then comes back on at around 5000 RPM and continues to flash at higher RPMs. If the RPM is maintained between about 2500 and around 5000, the light stays off and sems to operate normally. The battery does not seem to be running down as I might expect it to do even if the light is left to flash. We put a meter on the leads to the battery and the voltages seem to be all correct. All connectors seem to be clean and tight. I have not measured what kind of current the battery is drawing during all of this, but a friend and VERY good mechanic seems to think that the battery may be bad or starting to go bad and not "accepting" a charge as it should. Has anyone encountered such a problem? If so, what was the fix?
 

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On my 82 GPz1100 B2 model with the FI,it has a sensor built into the battery to monitor the battery condition. Unfortunately,Yuasa does not make this type of battery anymore, so I've had to find a 9 volt battery holder and wire it into the monitor circuit, otherwise I'm getting the flashing"Check Battery" indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Many thanks again guys, especially dondlhmn as we obviously share the same bike (well on the 6th April when I collect it!) and problems. I am by trade an electrical engineer, although I am semi retired after leaving the RAF to look after my 2 kids! So once I get up to speed on the bikes circuit I my be able to make a contribution!
Its great to find a forum with such genuine enthusiasts, the twin shock Gpz's are rare beasts in the UK, with a mint 1100 comanding £2-3 thousand! Over here we have specialist dealers who go to the USA to find bikes and sell them on back here!
Phil
 

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Seems anyone can throw around about a dozen non-sponsor names in any post, let's see if this one gets hammered just because I am the one who makes the part. At the risk of having people complain about self promotion, I will tell you I have been making Kawasaki and other tensioners for about a year and for good reason.

I started because both of my Kawasakis had tensioners go bad. One cost me a top end job to replace the chains (KLX has two). When I made the tensioner for the Zephyr I made 5 and sold them. KLX and others followed. Why? Because I sold them for a fair price based on my production processes and that it's not my main job - I'm an industrial tech teacher in a public middle school. I sell them for $30 plus whatever the USPS flat rate shipping is, which also enables me to ship however many fit in a box for that same flat rate. I've sent 3 in one package to the UK to Croccodile Mick on the Zepher-Zone forum.

I tried to see what would allow me more latitude here and never got any reply from the site owner. A moderator told me to use PMs. So I have.

The fact is I present a lower priced more complete tensioner kit than any others. Yet few know of my tensioners at this time. I am a motorcyclist first and a part maker second. I searched out ways to make the part inexpensive and have done so. Here's a shot of the kit for a 750... notice the gasket there too. The gasket is needed, so why not include it.



If someone doesn't think that is a fair package for the cost it would be interesting to hear what is.

If the moderators want to make this a better deal for members, we can work out a price break for members. I do that at the KLX650 group where I am a moderator. It's actually less about the money and more about the riders helped, the actual bikes, and fun had. I'll never remotely make a living from this... I just like doing it. I've been in and around bikes for 40+ years and sold them full and part time for 22 of those years, that ending about three years ago.

I have references for my product both in forums and from email and will have two riders running Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners in the vintage racing in AMA and AHRMA this summer. Two people who gave me a chance.
 

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Looks like a well made piece of kit - and good value for the money - especially when you consider the alternative - a rebuild!
Will this tensioner fit an 87 ZL1000 Eliminator?
If it will the n post it (or I can do that for you) on ;
ZL-OA Home - ZL-OA Kawasaki ZL Owners Association
and possibly the concours owners and ZRX / ZZR owners sites.
 

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Looks like a well made piece of kit - and good value for the money - especially when you consider the alternative - a rebuild!
Will this tensioner fit an 87 ZL1000 Eliminator?
If it will the n post it (or I can do that for you) on ;
ZL-OA Home - ZL-OA Kawasaki ZL Owners Association
and possibly the concours owners and ZRX / ZZR owners sites.


I appreciate your comments. I have a tensioner that fits the ZL1000 Eliminator. I'll PM you with the information. I figure I'd better be careful a bit.
 

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I will post this up at the Eliminators forum for you - with pleasure . I expect you will get some respenses with luck.
Glad to support someone making quality items for these older machines.
Well done.!
 

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Eddie Lawson is God!
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Seems anyone can throw around about a dozen non-sponsor names in any post, let's see if this one gets hammered just because I am the one who makes the part. At the risk of having people complain about self promotion, I will tell you I have been making Kawasaki and other tensioners for about a year and for good reason.

I started because both of my Kawasakis had tensioners go bad. One cost me a top end job to replace the chains (KLX has two). When I made the tensioner for the Zephyr I made 5 and sold them. KLX and others followed. Why? Because I sold them for a fair price based on my production processes and that it's not my main job - I'm an industrial tech teacher in a public middle school. I sell them for $30 plus whatever the USPS flat rate shipping is, which also enables me to ship however many fit in a box for that same flat rate. I've sent 3 in one package to the UK to Croccodile Mick on the Zepher-Zone forum.

I tried to see what would allow me more latitude here and never got any reply from the site owner. A moderator told me to use PMs. So I have.

The fact is I present a lower priced more complete tensioner kit than any others. Yet few know of my tensioners at this time. I am a motorcyclist first and a part maker second. I searched out ways to make the part inexpensive and have done so. Here's a shot of the kit for a 750... notice the gasket there too. The gasket is needed, so why not include it.



If someone doesn't think that is a fair package for the cost it would be interesting to hear what is.



I have references for my product both in forums and from email and will have two riders running Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners in the vintage racing in AMA and AHRMA this summer. Two people who gave me a chance.
If you ever make one for a DOHC 750-900-1100 Honda, I'll be your guinea pig and I'll get you some SERIOUS sales. Because camchains/tensioners are gonna obsolete that motor.

Make one for a J?
 

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I have posted your info on 2 more Kawasaki forums that I frequent - i hope this generates some more interest for you.
 

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On my 82 GPz1100 B2 model with the FI,it has a sensor built into the battery to monitor the battery condition. Unfortunately,Yuasa does not make this type of battery anymore, so I've had to find a 9 volt battery holder and wire it into the monitor circuit, otherwise I'm getting the flashing"Check Battery" indicator.
Got anymore details on this .. that flashing light is driving me crazy!!

BTW: Is it true that the OIL light is actually registering oil level rather than pressure?
 

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Some riders have found a 12 volt source and connected the battery sensor wire to stop the flashing light. I've got a 9 volt battery in a holder with an off-on switch doing the same thing(I went with 9 volt to avoid doing possible damage to the instrument panel).

I believe your bike is similar in operation(except for the FI system) an oil sensor floats in the oil pan on mine, but the bigger engines have extremely low pressure (2.0 to 2.8 PSI due to having a roller bearing crankshaft) yours might have higher oil pressure with plain bearings on the crank.
 
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