[m.thomas]

I have a 81 CSR 250 and it sounds like they are quite a bit the same. As far as the clicking noise, I would check the chain tension. The chain wil loosen and hit the forward screw that holds the chain guard. When I got my bike, that screw was worn all the way through and needed replaced so check that.

As far as the performance, it sounds like you are having a carb issue. Inside the carb, there are brass emulsion tubes. My bike was running poor and backfiring which is an indication of running lean. My bike would run decent until it warmed up and would hesitate and try to stall when coming to a stop. I took the carb apart and tapped out those two emulsion tubes with a wooden dowel and the micro holes were plugged solid. I cleaned them with carb spray and a fine wire opening up the emulsion holes, put it back together and it ran like a champ.

 

[NorthCountry]

I found the surging issue. When I stepped off the bike, I realized that the flue filter was only half full, and the line was not full. So, I bought a new filter, figured out that the previous owner installed it upside down, but the fuel will still not go through. It doesn't help that I need to hose clamp the line so that it doesn't leak... Don't know what to do.


Also, I got new pads today for the front. I cannot seem to get the piston to go back into the caliper. Is there a trick I should know about?

 

[Cynjut]

Fuel filter being only half full isn't that unusual.

Probably time to check your float needle performance by doing a clear-tube test of your bowl fuel height - too high or too low can cause odd engine power problems. You should probably also check your fuel petcock. The inside tank filter on the petcock can become clogged and cause intermiitent fuel flow problems.

The from brake pads should be relative simple. Pull the caliper, put a piece of 1x4 on the painted side of the caliper and put a 6" "C" clamp on the caliper so that the rotating foot is in the middle of the piston. Turn gently until you have the clearance you need. Most calipers have a fixed pad and a floating pad, but if your calipers have dual pistons (most don't) you will need to do the same thing on the other side at the same time.

The trick with the piston is "firm but slow". Don't get frustrated - turn it slowly and let the pressure of the clamp do the work. If the piston is seized, you may need to clean out the inside of the piston sleeve to get it smooth again and allow the piston to travel freely.

 

[NorthCountry]

Fuel filter being only half full isn't that unusual.

Probably time to check your float needle performance by doing a clear-tube test of your bowl fuel height - too high or too low can cause odd engine power problems. You should probably also check your fuel petcock. The inside tank filter on the petcock can become clogged and cause intermiitent fuel flow problems.

The from brake pads should be relative simple. Pull the caliper, put a piece of 1x4 on the painted side of the caliper and put a 6" "C" clamp on the caliper so that the rotating foot is in the middle of the piston. Turn gently until you have the clearance you need. Most calipers have a fixed pad and a floating pad, but if your calipers have dual pistons (most don't) you will need to do the same thing on the other side at the same time.

The trick with the piston is "firm but slow". Don't get frustrated - turn it slowly and let the pressure of the clamp do the work. If the piston is seized, you may need to clean out the inside of the piston sleeve to get it smooth again and allow the piston to travel freely.

Thanks for the piston help! The brakes are firm as ever.

Found out issue however. I am 100% positive that there is an air buble in the fuel filter bowl. You can clearly see the fuel stacking up at the end of the nozzle into the bowl, and then when I gun it, the fuel can;t keep up because there is only a thin layer of fuel in the bowl (like, imagine a paper thin amount of fuel). How to I get the air out!?

Goal is to take the bike to bike show tomorrow, so I better get on it!!!

 

[Cynjut]

That tells me your float needles are sticking. If the bowls empty when you are running (or get low enough that the jets can't pick up the gas) it will do what you are describing.

So, once again, you need to do a clear-tube bowl level check to find out of the floats are misadjusted, or if they are just sticky. Either way, you are likely to end up pulling the carbs and cleaning them well.

 

[NorthCountry]

OK. I figured out that my left carb was blocked up. The bowl was full of crud, the jets were crudded up, and the float needle was seized. I opened it and cleaned it out. I now put it back in the motorcycle, and fuel is in the bowl. However, now my bike will not even pull me from a starts, chokes, and does not idle well. What is the issue? I didn't touch my right carb, as it was running fine and I didn't want to screw up a good running carb. Seeing that I will have to remove carbs again, I will at least clean the bowl of the right carb.

What do you think?

 

[Cynjut]

OK. I figured out that my left carb was blocked up. The bowl was full of crud, the jets were crudded up, and the float needle was seized. I opened it and cleaned it out. I now put it back in the motorcycle, and fuel is in the bowl. However, now my bike will not even pull me from a starts, chokes, and does not idle well. What is the issue? ...

I'd guess that your first sentence is the answer to your question. The conditions that caused the #2 carb to junk up are exactly the same conditions the #1 carbs lived in. I'm gonna guess that it's time for a thorough remove and clean, and maybe a rebuild, of both carbs.

If you have the rebuild kits and get into it and the parts don't need replaced, you've got the kit for next time. Personally, whenever I have to rebuild a carb at this level, I always put in a rebuild kit. This is especially true of the float needles and seats.

 

[NorthCountry]

Ok. I was able to clean my carbs, and I have been out riding for the past two weeks. It has been a bunch of fun, but my bike needs to be tuned. My bike must be only getting 20 mpg, and it does not have a bunch of power off the line. The chop wants 160 for the job, so I gotta do it myself.

It runs lean, (never need choke on start) so what do I do/ why would the show charge so much if the job is not that intensive? Thanks.

 

[Cynjut]

It runs lean, (never need choke on start) so what do I do/ why would the show charge so much if the job is not that intensive? Thanks.

Runs leans but doesn't need choke to start are the opposite of each other.

Check the plugs for burn quality - if you are getting lots of soot on the plugs, you could be running rich, but if that was the case, you'd need choke.

Have you checked your valve lash?
Have you checked your compression?

Low mileage and poor power production are often issues with the valves or the rings. There are lots of places in the forums that talk about checking compression. You want at least 100 PSI; if you are getting less than that in either cylinder, you'll get bad performance and sooting burn on the plugs.

Poor mileage is often still a sticky float needle.

They aren't actually charging you a lot ($160 is about 90 minutes around here) because there are so many things it could be and they have to check them all. They are going to check all of the following:

1) Valve lash (a 30 minute job even if they don't have to fix anything),
2) Compression (10 minutes if there's nothing wrong),
3) Passage cleanliness in the carbs, (30 minutes),
3) Float Needle Operation (5 minutes each, assuming there's nothing wrong),
4) Jet choices (5 minutes each, with possible replacement),
5) Exhaust leaks (10 minutes),
6) Vacuum leans (10 minutes),
7) Plug/wire/coil operation (10 minutes).

Almost all of these could individually burn about $20 in parts (jet kits, crush washers, shims, wires and caps, etc.)

I'd say at $160, you're getting a bargain. I doubt I could get it done (without any intervention, just checking things out) for under $250.

 

[Zeehat]

where did you get your manuel, i cant find one anywhere. only owners manuels.

 

[NorthCountry]

I got my book from ebay for 27 bucks, pre used with some water stains, but not bad. Still, a tough price to swallow.

Forgot to say, I got the carb professionally cleaned (submerged and rebuilt) at a local place, and now the bike runs like a top.

 

[Bobelle27]

Off subject, but what year is my sons kx 85 my vin number is JKBK085AA0001213 ? It originally had a purple frame but the person I brought it off has painted it green

 

[NorthCountry]

Off subject, but what year is my sons kx 85 my vin number is JKBK085AA0001213 ? It originally had a purple frame but the person I brought it off has painted it green

That vin is not valid. If A is the tenth character, it is 1980. There is no "0" year for the kx85.

 

[Cynjut]

It only has 16 digits, so it can't be a VIN (which was adopted almost universally in 1981).

It looks like an old pre-1981 frame serial number. Based on that, I'd guess it's no later than (perhaps) a 1981.

The problem with that theory is that there's no "KX85A" from 1981 - they are all newer than 2001.

Welcome to the real-life version of GTA! I'd guess someone had a registration from an older bike (a KX80, maybe) and "found" a KX85 that they liked. They stripped the paint off the frame, ground down the actual VIN, and hammered in the faked up frame number from their old bike. When I tried your number at the Kawasaki Website, I got this message back:

Sorry, we could not find any results for the information provided. Please check your submission for accuracy and try again or contact our customer service center for further assistance

Sorry dude, it looks like a rolling case of "theft by receiving".

 

[buckysowards2020]

Hello there. First time posting here. I bought a kawasaki as my first bike a couple days ago.($250) It hasn't been tried or ran in 6 years. It has been garage kept all of its life. I cleaned the air box, replaced the filter, and lubed the clutch cable. New yuasa battery on the way. The spark plugs are rather black, but I have new ngk plugs on the way. I have a grunge brush on the way, as well as the solvents needed, as well as new RP oil (10 w 40). I have bought some carb cleaner as well as some RP gas tank cleaner. The tank was stored empty, and the fuel filter is clean. I cleaned all of the chrome with the aluminum foil trick.



Not for right now, but how can I repair that dent? It has a crease in it, but it seems like an airbag could relieve a lot of the dent. Thoughts?

Once I get everything, I am going to try to start it. Should I shoot PB blaster or WD40 into the spark plug holes to save the rings? Should I just shoot oil in there? Also, what am I missing? Thanks.

I need a set of carbratiors for a 305 Kawasaki who can help me out I'll buy them