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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I have an 82 kz550 and I can’t get much out of it. Lights work, horn works but I can’t get it to turn over. Seems like I’m not getting power to my solenoid. I had replaced it with a universal 4 post with the smaller posts being labeled S and I. I put the coils on S and the starter switch on I. I removed my starter and hit raw power to it to make sure it works and it does. Also, my head light sometimes won’t come on when I turn the ignition on.
Another issue I’m having is my clutch seems super loose like it’s not catching to engage.
Any help on these issues will be appreciated.
 

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Your starter circuit should look like this one. Your universal solenoid should have a label on it. Can you post a picture of the label here? I don't know what you mean by you put the "coils" on S. Can you post a picture of how it is wired?

43509
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
43510

this is what my replacement solenoid looks like. I have my wire for the coils on S post and my start button ignition wire on I.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay. So those wires are backwards I believe. Listened to the autozone guy on how to wire.. smh. I won’t know if that fixes it until I get back in the garage here in a few..
 

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As you can see from the diagram I posted you should have a heavy gage wire coming from your battery positive terminal going directly to one of the heavy terminals on the solenoid. The other heavy gage wire that goes to your starter motor is connected to the other heavy terminal on the solenoid.

I am not familiar with the T and S designations. This looks like an automotive solenoid.

Normally your Kawasaki OEM solenoid would have a connector to match up you your wiring harness. This connector would have a thin black wire and a thin yellow/black wire. The black wire goes to your starter lockout switch and the yellow/black is the ground in the wiring harness.
 

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It is a automotive starting solenoid from the times cars had points, distributors, and single ignition coil....and starting solenoids were not mounted to cranking motor as today....on cars.... I mean.
...........the S (switch) terminal was connected to the ignition switch, ..the I (Ignition Coil) terminal was connected to the ignition coil of the system..as a voltage booster to the coil during cranking. I presume the mounting on the Solenoid body was the ground.

...not sure on the '82 550, but I presume the stock solenoid only had yellow/red wire from the ignition switch, and the other black/yellow for chassis, ground, battery (-).

If mounting is the ground, it may work by just using the S terminal to Switch.......but would much rather not be using this old automobiles ignition coils. ...........The right thing is not expensive.
 

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I agree with Hugojose. Best to get an OEM solenoid from Kawasaki. I was unsure if automotive solenoids functioned the same as motorcycles and was concerned at the odd markings. Based on what Hugojose has said, I cannot see how this solenoid will work. Return it if you can and get a Kawasaki solenoid.
 

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....and is very easy to test the original solenoid on a bench, to determine whether it works or not, just by using 12VDC,..from any source, .....bike battery, loose battery, battery pack, or even from car battery......... a couple of alligator clips, and continuity tester for big posts........just the clicking would prove something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay. I’ll check into one. But for now I swapped the wires and I ran a wire from two wires from the push button one to the positive on the battery and one to the ignition switch on the solenoid. The solenoid acts as it should but the starter isn’t spinning. But like I said before when I hit direct power to the starter it does spin. While I wait for a solenoid can anyone direct me with my clutch issue. There’s no tension in the lever when I squeeze it and it doesn’t engage the clutch..
 

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..no tension at all......? I presume you have fiddle with the cable adjustment already. The clutch cable is attached to a rod on clutch cover, which in turn engages the clutch pin head in a notch, pulling the pin against the clutch springs when rotated. . That is where the tension comes from

..................rod inside the clutch cover is disengaged by turning it (counter clockwise, I believe) and pulling up. (with not cable of course). With the cable disconnected, I can tell if this rod is engaged or not.....is very, very hard to turn clockwise......could you verify that? Notice, when things are good, is not easy connect/disconnect cable.
 

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Never mind what I said. Was talking '90 Zephyr 750/550. The GPz is different employing a rod from the left side, not on clutch cover.

One thing is not tension, but if bike does not roll when engaged in first, then sounds like clutch is disengaged always. Bike does not need clutch to engage, but it would lurch forward and stall if clutch was engaged.................or maybe am not understanding what you are saying..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When I squeeze the clutch lever there’s no tension in the lever it collapses super easy. Holding the clutch should allow me to roll while in gear but it don’t.
 

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Am afraind can't help much here as mine is different. It looks it should work on rotating, but looking at your picture is like pieces are missing because don't see how that could happen. Or does it work by pushing?? In that case would need a cam of some sort.

Is this a bike you just acquired?? Did it work before?? have you ever ridden this bike??
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So the rod in the second picture pushes through to the clutch pressure plate, the mechanism at the end of the cable raises out as the clutch lever is pulled forcing pressure on the rod to push the clutch pressure plate. And yes.. I got the bike for $75. It was torn apart. Previous owner said he was gonna replace gaskets but never got to it. He gave me the new gasket kit so I changed the gaskets and oil/oil filter.
 

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Like I said, is not my system, thus am not positive, but I thought there would be something like picture I posted to push on the rod, and the screw is to adjust the tension on rod. It is only my understanding. I do not own a 550.

..I do not see how what you have can push, or rotate rod. Go to microfiche of any motorcycle part supplier on line, check on your model, and see the 'Clutch" microfich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There is an adjustment screw on the cover that you see in photo one. My rod is not meant to spin. Only push. I’ll get you a couple more photos soon. Like 15-20 minutes.
 

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$75, .....how many miles on this thing....??? This may take a restoration. OK, the clutch parts I posted are facing the cover, and basically is a cam system. When you pull the cable it rotates plate and cam pushes on the rod. Then the rod should be very hard to push but 'springy' as is acting against five clutch plate springs. You may need to push with a wooden block to try that (or hit it mildly with a rubber mallet). Can you verify that??

.......if hard and 'springy' then the cover assembly should be 'on tension' against the rod if pressing against it. Is all this making any sense???
 
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