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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, been working at this bike for a couple of weeks finally got everything functioning or so I thought. I now am at starting the bike. When I hit the push button it cranks over but it won’t fire up. Sounds like it wants to but it’s just not. Any thoughts on what I can do?
 

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A few more details would help. Got gas, spark ok, timing ok, safeties ok, wiring checked out?
To say the bike wont start is difficult to diagnose without info. Push the button and its a no go.
Kinda like the kkovide 2019+ itoa variant, nazzel klaus swabes and kcp tests not doing it eh. Maybe its a no go?
Just junk it and get another. Got everything functioning but it doesn't work? So... something is probably not functioning, is my guess. Did you check the air pressure?
 

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Although it appears Alex may have gone a little bit off the deep end, his underlying message is important and I agree with it.

To help you, we need as much background information as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A few more details would help. Got gas, spark ok, timing ok, safeties ok, wiring checked out?
To say the bike wont start is difficult to diagnose without info. Push the button and its a no go.
Kinda like the kkovide 2019+ itoa variant, nazzel klaus swabes and kcp tests not doing it eh. Maybe its a no go?
Just junk it and get another. Got everything functioning but it doesn't work? So... something is probably not functioning, is my guess. Did you check the air pressure?
Although it appears Alex may have gone a little bit off the deep end, his underlying message is important and I agree with it.

To help you, we need as much background information as possible.
Okay. I just need to get the tool to check pressure. But it’s getting spark.
Although it appears Alex may have gone a little bit off the deep end, his underlying message is important and I agree with it.

To help you, we need as much background information as possible.
okay, I have spark, I don’t have a tool for checking air pressure.. I don’t think I’m getting fuel through. I cleaned the carbs. Before I cleaned them it started for like 2-3 seconds and again for like another 2 seconds after I cleaned them. It also slightly back fired twice.
 

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Your bike has a vacuum petcock. Please make sure the vacuum hose is properly connected to the petcock and to the carbs. Make sure the vacuum hose is in good condition with no leaks. The ultimate test of the petcock is to pull the gasoline supply hose and put the open end into a catch can, and then crank the starter motor. It should flow fuel, as soon as you start cranking.

If not make sure the fuel tap is set to the on or run position. If still no fuel when you crank, and if the fuel tap has a "prime" position, try that. In prime, it should flow without cranking since prime bypasses the vacuum part of the petcock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Your bike has a vacuum petcock. Please make sure the vacuum hose is properly connected to the petcock and to the carbs. Make sure the vacuum hose is in good condition with no leaks. The ultimate test of the petcock is to pull the gasoline supply hose and put the open end into a catch can, and then crank the starter motor. It should flow fuel, as soon as you start cranking.

If not make sure the fuel tap is set to the on or run position. If still no fuel when you crank, and if the fuel tap has a "prime" position, try that. In prime, it should flow without cranking since prime bypasses deer the vacuum part of the petcock.
I had the fuel going through the main line. I actually connected a longer hose and filled it with gas. It’s also hard to blow air through the gas line into the carbs main rail. Sometimes I can’t push any air through. I’ll try to clean the carbs better. It’s just a pain pulling them off and getting them back in.
 

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If the float bowls in your carbs are full of fuel, you will NOT be able to blow any air through because the float valve will be closed. So that by itself is not a good test of fuel to the carbs. Have you opened the float bowl drains to see if fuel comes out on all 4 carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the float bowls in your carbs are full of fuel, you will NOT be able to blow any air through because the float valve will be closed. So that by itself is not a good test of fuel to the carbs. Have you opened the float bowl drains to see if fuel comes out on all 4 carbs?
I suppose I’ll have to check that out. I know at least two bowls push fuel out of the over flow tubes. Do you have a diagram of how the vacuum hoses should be connected??
 

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Ok, so we know that you are getting fuel but you are getting too much fuel if it is coming out of the overflow.

You will need to pull the carbs if fuel is coming out the overflow. You likely need to replace the float valves to stop excessive fuel flow. Also check float height setting and test floats for leakage. Even a small amount of gasoline inside a float will cause problems due to the extra weight.

While you are in there, record the numbers of all jets, all needles and note the needle settings and post here. We have no idea what a previous owner may have done. Also you need to meticulously clean every jet and every tiny passageway in the carbs. Do a visual inspection of each jet by holding it up to a strong light. You should see a perfect circle in even the smallest jet.

But before you do any of that, you may want to check engine compression first to decide if your bike is worth fixing. Will you still want to fix this bike if it needs a top-end rebuild? You can buy a compression tester usually for under $30.

By looking at the following parts diagrams and the names of the hoses you should be able to sort things out as far as hose routing is concerned.



 

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Hey guys, been working at this bike for a couple of weeks finally got everything functioning or so I thought. I now am at starting the bike. When I hit the push button it cranks over but it won’t fire up. Sounds like it wants to but it’s just not. Any thoughts on what I can do?
Remove one lead an put skrewdriver in it an lay skrewdriver near natal an look at plug gap area an if spark good if not could be a fuse or coil . Elimination at its best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Remove one lead an put skrewdriver in it an lay skrewdriver near natal an look at plug gap area an if spark good if not could be a fuse or coil . Elimination at its best.
I have spark on each plug but it’s kinda faint. Might try new cables first. If that don’t help, I’ll go with new coils. I need to check them with the multimeter. My pick up coils seem well. They read 452ohms and 433ohms. I’m hoping that’s close enough to spec on the one that’s 433 considering they say they should range between 440-460.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, so we know that you are getting fuel but you are getting too much fuel if it is coming out of the overflow.

You will need to pull the carbs if fuel is coming out the overflow. You likely need to replace the float valves to stop excessive fuel flow. Also check float height setting and test floats for leakage. Even a small amount of gasoline inside a float will cause problems due to the extra weight.

While you are in there, record the numbers of all jets, all needles and note the needle settings and post here. We have no idea what a previous owner may have done. Also you need to meticulously clean every jet and every tiny passageway in the carbs. Do a visual inspection of each jet by holding it up to a strong light. You should see a perfect circle in even the smallest jet.

But before you do any of that, you may want to check engine compression first to decide if your bike is worth fixing. Will you still want to fix this bike if it needs a top-end rebuild? You can buy a compression tester usually for under $30.

By looking at the following parts diagrams and the names of the hoses you should be able to sort things out as far as hose routing is concerned.



If need be I’d rebuild the upper end. The bike was $75 because the person claims he just wasn’t inclined enough to put it back together. My pistons and the cylinders seem to be in good shape. There’s no excessive wear. No scrape marks or anything. If my compression isn’t up to standards I could get some new rings. But when I replaced some gaskets the pistons didn’t feel loose in there. I’ll acquire a compression tester today. Thanks. What psi should I be shooting for??
 

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Go by what your manuals says, but I would expect you are looking for a compression number of around 140 to 180 PSI.
It is always wise to first check valve clearances. If a valve is being held open due to lack of clearance you will get a very low number on that cylinder.

Don't forget to remove all spark plugs but keep them connected and grounded while you do your compression testing.
Hold the throttle wide open while doing your test.
 

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I have spark on each plug but it’s kinda faint. Might try new cables first. If that don’t help, I’ll go with new coils. I need to check them with the multimeter. My pick up coils seem well. They read 452ohms and 433ohms. I’m hoping that’s close enough to spec on the one that’s 433 considering they say they should range between 440-460.
Hey buddy , ok next thing if it reads good are you checking the two terminals on coils , if so an not checking out from lead that goes on plugs it could be that an make sure earth on them coil's is good on chassis.let me know then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey buddy , ok next thing if it reads good are you checking the two terminals on coils , if so an not checking out from lead that goes on plugs it could be that an make sure earth on them coil's is good on chassis.let me know then.
Okay, I got the bike running but I think it’s only running off of one coil. My coil for 1 and 4. I unplugged the spark plug cables from 2 and 3 and it kept running the same. Sounding hesitant. I took it down the road and back but I can’t really get much power out of it. I also need a new battery so I’m gonna grab one tomorrow then I’ll do some voltage and ohms testing on my coils and double check their hot and ground wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Go by what your manuals says, but I would expect you are looking for a compression number of around 140 to 180 PSI.
It is always wise to first check valve clearances. If a valve is being held open due to lack of clearance you will get a very low number on that cylinder.

Don't forget to remove all spark plugs but keep them connected and grounded while you do your compression testing.
Hold the throttle wide open while doing your test.
I had got the bike to start and run a few times. Starts up easy. Although I have to use a screw driver on my solenoid and a jump pack. But I think one coil might be faulty (2&3). It sounded hesitant and revved up hesitantly when I gave it throttle. It would go about 6,000 rpms and drop down while I was still in the throttle. I removed the spark plug wires to 2&3 and it acted the same. I still haven’t done a compression test. I didn’t know that was a $45 dollar tool at autozone. I bought a high pressure gauge for $10 with a relief button to make my own.
 

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Sounds like you are making progress.

We had ruled out spark because you had said you had spark and thought it was fuel related. But if you can remove the spark plug wires to the middle two cylinders without any change to how it runs, then you may have identified the problem.

Test both coils for resistance on the primary and secondary side and go from there.

There are less expensive gages out there, but if you can make your own for $10, why not?

 

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I have spark on each plug but it’s kinda faint. Might try new cables first. If that don’t help, I’ll go with new coils. I need to check them with the multimeter. My pick up coils seem well. They read 452ohms and 433ohms. I’m hoping that’s close enough to spec on the one that’s 433 considering they say they should range between 440-460.
So if you have spark from out your lead with a plug on end an plug side earthed on chassis , and checked all fuses an terminal on batt good an trace earth from batt to chassis an get back to me an we will get this.
I had got the bike to start and run a few times. Starts up easy. Although I have to use a screw driver on my solenoid and a jump pack. But I think one coil might be faulty (2&3). It sounded hesitant and revved up hesitantly when I gave it throttle. It would go about 6,000 rpms and drop down while I was still in the throttle. I removed the spark plug wires to 2&3 and it acted the same. I still haven’t done a compression test. I didn’t know that was a $45 dollar tool at autozone. I bought a high pressure gauge for $10 with a relief button to make my own.
Hey buddy hope your well. Process of alimintion. Doing well . Ok check fuses , trace coil wiring an make sure also that there's no shitty looking wires or baked or exposed wires an you can cheat a little an let it run but turned the lights off in storage place your working in and may see sparks jumping, check spark plug leads . Volt metre on the dial hold to volt metre leads together an will go from start to flat out on metre an then put one lead on volt metre to one end of coil an other on the other end an see if all resistances are equal readings. 👍Take care an let me know how it looks tomorrow so have a good night . 😇👌
 
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