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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Update * It’s been a few days. Work and all. But I installed a couple of new coils on the bike and a new battery. It starts up and I’ve rode it a little, however, I feel like I have to give it too much gas when going into first gear on a take off. If I don’t, it will stall. Also, it only seems to start if the choke is fully on. Even after it’s been running. Any thoughts there?
 

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Update * It’s been a few days. Work and all. But I installed a couple of new coils on the bike and a new battery. It starts up and I’ve rode it a little, however, I feel like I have to give it too much gas when going into first gear on a take off. If I don’t, it will stall. Also, it only seems to start if the choke is fully on. Even after it’s been running. Any thoughts there?
Hey buddy , is choke in when take of in first , do you warm up with choke an then push it in. If you do that an it still . Slugger , fuel , fuel filter. Maybe the old fuel if not all jets to clean out an needle an seat. Butter flys. Try first
Turn of bike . Hold throttle open fully and check if the butterfly's are open fully . Make sure choke butterfly is closed fully when on an open fully when off. Where do you live , what town. Cause I would love to Fix it an time it. Lance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hey buddy , is choke in when take of in first , do you warm up with choke an then push it in. If you do that an it still . Slugger , fuel , fuel filter. Maybe the old fuel if not all jets to clean out an needle an seat. Butter flys. Try first
Turn of bike . Hold throttle open fully and check if the butterfly's are open fully . Make sure choke butterfly is closed fully when on an open fully when off. Where do you live , what town. Cause I would love to Fix it an time it. Lance.
Hey Lance. I have to start it with full choke every time. Even when it’s warm. I cleaned the carbs pretty good. I run it where choke is almost off but not quite. Seems to run better. Also, I live in Ohio. East Liverpool Ohio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Could be a vacuum leak or clogged pilot jets. Or someone put wrong jets in carb.
The jets are definitely clear in the carbs. My air box boots won’t go on the carbs right though. Only one will. For the most part they’re just pressed against the carbs. Will that cause a problem? Is it important that I get that sealed up? Also, how come my clutch has 7 friction plates when it’s a 6speed
 

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You need new air box boots. It is vitally important that they fit properly and are air tight. Old boots get hard and shrink making a good seal impossible. The leak will cause your bike to run lean and that is why you need the choke to help provide extra fuel to make up for the lean condition.

Running the engine lean will damage the engine so I would look after this right away.

The number of clutch plates is not related to the number of gears in the transmission. If you think something is wrong, check a parts diagram to make sure the clutch was assembled correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You need new air box boots. It is vitally important that they fit properly and are air tight. Old boots get hard and shrink making a good seal impossible. The leak will cause your bike to run lean and that is why you need the choke to help provide extra fuel to make up for the lean condition.

Running the engine lean will damage the engine so I would look after this right away.

The number of clutch plates is not related to the number of gears in the transmission. If you think something is wrong, check a parts diagram to make sure the clutch was assembled correctly.
I did check into the clutch. Everything is normal. But thanks for the information about running lean. It’s a bit of a pain in the ass taking the air box out. I have to get new rings for it though so I suppose I’ll do it all at once. The bike tops out at like 60/65. Wants to stall out going up hill unless I get a little run for it. Unless all of that can trace back to the air box boots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You need new air box boots. It is vitally important that they fit properly and are air tight. Old boots get hard and shrink making a good seal impossible. The leak will cause your bike to run lean and that is why you need the choke to help provide extra fuel to make up for the lean condition.

Running the engine lean will damage the engine so I would look after this right away.

The number of clutch plates is not related to the number of gears in the transmission. If you think something is wrong, check a parts diagram to make sure the clutch was assembled correctly.
Also I’ll add that I do back fire quite often.
 

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Backfires and poor performance can be from a number of things. Have you checked valve clearance and engine compression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I’m not sure how to check valve clearance. And my rigged compression tester didn’t work. I’m just going to buy one probably from harbor freight tomorrow.
 

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I expect you can find some YouTube videos on valve clearance checking, but I would invest in a factory service manual if you can find one.

Do you know how to do a proper compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I expect you can find some YouTube videos on valve clearance checking, but I would invest in a factory service manual if you can find one.

Do you know how to do a proper compression test?
Am I supposed to screw the tester into a spark plug port and attempt to start the bike without gas and power also while leaving the other plugs in?
 

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Am I supposed to screw the tester into a spark plug port and attempt to start the bike without gas and power also while leaving the other plugs in?

No. You need to remove all spark plugs but leave them connected to the spark plug wires and make sure their threads are touching the cylinder head. You want to make sure the plugs will spark or you could damage the igniter.
The bike cannot start with all plugs removed and you will have the gas tank off anyway.

Screw the gage into the first cylinder, hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gage reaches its highest reading. This will normally take maybe 5 seconds or so. Write down the reading and move on to the next cylinder until all of them are done. Most of us are used to PSI compression units so please use those when you take your readings.

Post the results here and we can give further advice.
 

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Well those are not great numbers. You can do one of two things or both.

Run the test again, but this time before you screw the compression gage into the spark plug hole, add a teaspoon of new motor oil into the cylinder. If the compression improves that means you are losing some of your compression past worn rings. If compression does not change, it means your valves are being held open or are burned or the valve seats are damaged.

The other thing to do before you panic, is to check all valve clearances. This is an often ignored maintenance task. As the valves wear, the clearance gets smaller. At some point the valves can no longer close completely with a resulting loss of compression and if ignored long enough will burn the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well those are not great numbers. You can do one of two things or both.

Run the test again, but this time before you screw the compression gage into the spark plug hole, add a teaspoon of new motor oil into the cylinder. If the compression improves that means you are losing some of your compression past worn rings. If compression does not change, it means your valves are being held open or are burned or the valve seats are damaged.

The other thing to do before you panic, is to check all valve clearances. This is an often ignored maintenance task. As the valves wear, the clearance gets smaller. At some point the valves can no longer close completely with a resulting loss of compression and if ignored long enough will burn the valve.
Okay, update here. It’s been a little while. I got feeler gauges. Only one of my intake valves has clearance. The first one on the left side. And the exhaust are between .10-.13 mm. I added oil to two different cylinders to test my compression. They were all reading 100 with no oil and with oil they went to 225. So I should replace my rings? Should I change shims for the valves? Right now it runs with good power but it don’t idle smoothly. And it has slight back firing. My vacuum lines seems tight.. would this be from lack of compression?
 

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Ok, so without any clearance on your intake valves it is highly possible that the valves are being held open when they should be closed, and thus losing compression and burning the valves. Absolutely the valve clearances need to be set to spec. Probably best to take it to a trusted shop and have them do it.

I am thinking that a jump to 225 psi means you probably put more than a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder during your compression check. So I am not sure you can conclude bad rings just yet.

The backfire can be explained by tight intake valves. If it were me, I would get the valves set to proper clearance and then run the compression check again.
 
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