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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased a clean 1982 KZ1100, been having issues with the battery going dead and in my diagnosis I have found something I don't know what it is or what it is used for. Now let me preface that I an no expert motorcycle mechanic and that is why I am adding a picture or two... see the relay with the toggle switch next to it? What is this for? One lead does go to what I think is the Starter Motor Relay, but not sure why - any help would be appreciated?
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Follow the wires. They look non-automotive, including the relay next to it, which is not the type you would use on something that moves and vibrates. It is an 'ice cube' relay, the type commonly used on stationary electrical cabinets. They seem to be commercial add-ons from previous owners.

Saying a wire goes to the Starting Relay is too vague. Does it go to the big power connectors, and with side?, or the little ones to energize the relay?? Positive or Ground?? Knowing this would start giving a hint. Motorcycle electrical drawings have color coded wires to know which is which. If wire is on battery side, then is simply taking power from battery to energize something else. They may have been bad replacement for factory components that went bad

As they look non-factory, basically there would not be a way of knowing unless one physically trace wire, or do voltage/continuity test, which is in general not hard to do.
 

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I agree with Hugojose there is a lot of non-OEM stuff going on here including the toggle switch. The switch might have been added by a former owner as an anti-theft device but without tracing the wires it's anyone's guess what it does.

Trace out the circuit of the wires between the relay, the starter solenoid and toggle switch on a piece of paper. Take a picture of your drawing and post it here if you cannot make sense of it.

All that aside, if the issue is your battery going dead the first thing to do is to check charging voltage at the battery. Do you have a multimeter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Follow the wires. They look non-automotive, including the relay next to it, which is not the type you would use on something that moves and vibrates. It is an 'ice cube' relay, the type commonly used on stationary electrical cabinets. They seem to be commercial add-ons from previous owners.

Saying a wire goes to the Starting Relay is too vague. Does it go to the big power connectors, and with side?, or the little ones to energize the relay?? Positive or Ground?? Knowing this would start giving a hint. Motorcycle electrical drawings have color coded wires to know which is which. If wire is on battery side, then is simply taking power from battery to energize something else. They may have been bad replacement for factory components that went bad

As they look non-factory, basically there would not be a way of knowing unless one physically trace wire, or do voltage/continuity test, which is in general not hard to do.
I will look at the wiring diagram today - I have the service manual and will follow the wires and update you later.
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree with Hugojose there is a lot of non-OEM stuff going on here including the toggle switch. The switch might have been added by a former owner as an anti-theft device but without tracing the wires it's anyone's guess what it does.

Trace out the circuit of the wires between the relay, the starter solenoid and toggle switch on a piece of paper. Take a picture of your drawing and post it here if you cannot make sense of it.

All that aside, if the issue is your battery going dead the first thing to do is to check charging voltage at the battery. Do you have a multimeter?
Tracing out the wires with the wiring diagram - tested the Stator and Voltage Rectifier already for the battery issue>
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you check for parasitic battery loads with ignition key off?
I'm going back to my dumb question, HOW DO YOU DO THAT?
 

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What WFO-KZ means by parasitic loads, is if there is current draw from battery when ignition is off. This is common in modern cars and motorcycles, as their computers are powered always, but in these old bikes (or very old cars) it should be 0 when ignition is off, as they don't have "intelligent" components to keep on....unless owner added something directly connected to battery...or you have a something finding Ground.

....you read the current by connecting a multimeter in SERIES with battery with selector on Amps, ...and is easier and safer on the Ground side. Be aware most meter are limited to a few amps, but should not be more than a few milliamps if anything. There are also clamp ammeters that read DC current w/out disconnecting anything, but they are specialized.
 

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Thanks for the clarification Hugojose. That is indeed what I meant by parasitic loads.

Also many multimeters have a high current port, as well as a low current port. You can use these for checking the "draw" on the battery.

And by draw, I mean how many amps are being drawn from the battery. You should always start with the black multimeter lead plugged into the highest amp port. On mine, this is a 10 Amp max port. If you don't do this you could pop a very expensive fuse in the multimeter or possibly burn out your multimeter.

Once you determine that the draw is in millamps and is within the range of your low amp port, then you can switch the black lead to the low amps port and take another reading of the draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Will be looking into this on the weekend, I have a Fluke83 Multimeter that should be able to do the job fine...
 

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Did you check for parasitic battery loads with ignition key off?
This is definitely not OEM. Perhaps it was installed for theft prevention if it goes to the starter relay. ?? You obviously have a drain on the battery. Use an OHM meter to see how much drain it has & then you can diagnose the exact place where the drain is happening.
 
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