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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried to start up the bike a while back & ran into a problem. When I turned the key the lights came on & abruptly went out. She's been DOA ever since. Any of you pros have an idea what's going on? Was going to replace ignition switch but thought I'd ask here before I start replacing parts.
 

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Have you looked at the fuse-box yet, could be an old fuse just went or maybe a short.

If you touched nothing else check wiring between battery, ignition-switch and main-fuse, then fuse-box, clocks/idiot-lights and lamps/relays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another quick question. You mentioned a main fuse OneShadeOfGreen. Where is that located? I checked the fuses under the seat & they all look good.
 

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Fuses can look good, only by using a meter can you determine if they are still useable. If you remove them, a multimeter set on OHMS can do an electrical continuity check on the fuse element.

Another way is to have the meter set on Direct Current(D.C.) and read through the fuse, by having the BLACK or NEGATIVE(-) probe on a good frame ground or at the NEGATIVE (-) battery terminal and the RED or POSITIVE(+) probe at the other end of the fuse.

Fuses can fail internally,heat,vibration and just age can cause it to fail.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/46072/COMPACT FUSE BLOCK 8 FUSE/

www.rallylights.com http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y
 

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Insect Impact Analyst
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This sounds pretty classically like a bad battery or ground connection. If the fuse tests out fine, clean your battery cables with a wire brush and some contact cleaner and make sure they are tight on the battery. Also a good idea to check the end that connects to the starter relay, starter, and ground on the engine. Any of those can become corroded and cause a weak connection, especially on an older bike. If cleaning your connections doesn't do the trick, it's time to get a service manual and a multimeter and start checking for power to find out where the circuit is interrupted. It is definitely best to do this before throwing parts at the problem. Replacing parts blindly will only empty your wallet and cause lots of frustration.
 

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Mike
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I once had a problem that sounds something like yours. Mine was in the wireing harness, the problem occured when I turned the front wheel left or right and turned out to be a break in a wire where the loom goes from the gauges and down to the frame. The bike would run fine and then would just die, the problem would come and go makeing it a bit difficult to track down and finally it was just dead. Once I had it figured out I just split the loom and repaired the wire. No problems after that. I would be interested in knowing what your problem ends up being. Love the Spectres
 
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