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Discussion Starter #1
Hello , ive recently aquired myself this bike for 400 dollars of craigslist.
bike has fairings removed but is complete. engine turns over but wont start.
ive yet to get it to fire.
pulled carbs ( kiehin cr speacials ) and placed my hand on both the intake and the exhaust. getting compression. put spare plug in every plug lead, getting spark. but wont fire on fuel or starting fluid. i've started bidding on cdi box, as with my fathers virago, good to have a spare.

on to my questions so far, bro and i pulled off pick up coil cover and it seems alot of oil/gas mix drained out.

#1 . is the pickup coil system supposed to be wet? i've looked in the manual i have and it seems so but figure good to ask.

#2 . could the plugs in the bike be so fouled that they wont spark at all, even a sputter? ( didnt have the right socket , picking up today. )

#3 . cdi test in manual says to set the dmm to 1k ohm, lowest mine goes is 20k, were would i get one that has that setting.

thanks.
 

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I'd say a minimum of 120 PSI to produce any engine power is needed.Get a screw in type of compression tester if possible as I don't like the type you press into the sparkplug holes for accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hmmm i was figuring it was a wet system on the pickup coils because the chain is lubbed up at the head, well that kinda sucks, cause when i pulled the cover off , a very large amout of oil/gas drained out, had to hurry and grab a drain pan. maybe a bad seal on the crank?
 

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Sounds like your intake valves are tight this would cause it not to start when cold 70 or less,if you have comfirmed your getting gas and spark and have a good battery,you take a heat gun or hair drier and preheat the cylinders ,i use heat gun for about 10 min get them nice and warm and it should start.
 

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Well you should give it a go ,you might be surprised.
The reason i say that is i have the same bike and it developed a condition that it would not start unless it was 80 degrees out or above,then it started getting cooler out so i used a heat gun to warm up the cylinders,for about a week until i had time to pull the valve cover off ,And sure enough the intake clearance was way tight (so tight that they were never fully closing) ,adjusted to spec and the problem was solved (start fine at any temp now) and it runs alot better also.
 

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sounds like you already got some good tips, the oil gas mix you talk about means you should get a rebuild kit for the carbs and fuel tap or petcock as well. It probably could use agood cleaning of the whole fuel system and I would take the valve cover off and do an adjustment right off the bat while you wait on the stuff you already know you need. Best tip I could think of giving is... GET YOUR SELF A SHOP MANUAL. Best money you'll invest on it. I've the same bike and love it. very fast.
p.s. post some pics, would like to see what they look like without the farings been thinking of taking mine off and making'er a naked. ??? max.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oh yeah , i like alll the advice, just was hoping that the oil draining out of the pickup compartment was normail, ill get new plugs, and adjust the valves. but i cant do anything more if thats not right with the oil in there.

ill post pics next time im over at the bike, i think shes ugly underneath in my opinion, definatly keeping the fairings for mine.
 

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that was probably the reason it did not start. but don't give up. reason oil got in there was probably because it had been thinned out too much by the gas in it and seeped pass the seal, clean the pickup coils compartment out good leave it open and do what you have to it will probably be O.K. with the right oil viscosity in it. I've not had to change that particular seal but it should not be too difficult to do. max.
 

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oh yeah , i like alll the advice, just was hoping that the oil draining out of the pickup compartment was normail, ill get new plugs, and adjust the valves. but i cant do anything more if thats not right with the oil in there.

ill post pics next time im over at the bike, i think shes ugly underneath in my opinion, definatly keeping the fairings for mine.
I have the exact bike, just restored it over the winter. Mine too did not start when I got it. There is supposed to be oil in the pick up coil area. I would check to see if your getting gas to the spark plugs, remove the carbs & clean them thoroughly. Use air compessor & carb cleaner, take all the jets apart & clean.
Remove the overhead cam cover and check the valve clearances. There easy to adjust with the screws.
Check if the choke is working.:cool:
 

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My popular carb cleaning guide:

Carb Cleaning 101

By M. Shively

The elements of internal combustion engines are: correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, and adequate cylinder compression.

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.


Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the butt or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).
 

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Lemon Juice Carb Cleaning(Found on the internet)

If it was me, I'd pull the top covers off, pull the slides out, drop off the bottom bowls, remove pilots/mains. Then with the rest of the carbs still assembled boil them in some lemon juice. You'll need a big roaster pan, a little over a gallon of lemon juice (cooking supply stores), and an understanding wife/girlfriend cause the sh*ts gonna stink a little.

Boil them for about 15 minutes, then rinse them really well and blow them dry with compressed air (make sure all passages are clean). You'll be amazed at how clean they come in that short of a time.

I just did a set yesterday after hearing about it from a buddy who's used lemon juice on a couple dozen racks of carbs. After a couple of minutes at slow boil the lemon juice starts to foam up a little (careful not to boil over) and you can see all the sh*t just dissolving.

After boiling them for 15 minutes (might have to roll them around once to make sure you get the entire carbs) rinse them really well and blow them dry with compressed air. The carb bodies will be kinda chalky looking at this point. I used a toothbrush and PB blaster to put a little luster back into them and then put my internals back in.

I had pulled the bowls off, removed the floats, float needles and seats, jets, and air/pilot screws as well as the top covers and slides just to make sure no crap got itself wedged inside those passages.
After putting the carbs back together and bolting them up not only do they look great but the bikes running MUCH better with all the jet passages finally cleaned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for the carb cleaning tips, athough i quite good at that already, had a 88 hurricane got running last year, had to clean them out, but the lemon juice sounds like a much faster solution. glad to hear that oil is normal in the pickup area. :D
 

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thanks for the carb cleaning tips, athough i quite good at that already, had a 88 hurricane got running last year, had to clean them out, but the lemon juice sounds like a much faster solution. glad to hear that oil is normal in the pickup area. :D
I also have a '88 hurricane 600. That's kinda freaky.:mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah got over to the inlaws (bikes in thier pole barn ) today, got the pickup coils bolted back in. Now that i have the right plug socket, 18mm thin wall, i figured i could swap out the plugs with my new ones, they came out pretty easy, way too easy, they were'nt even tight, fingertips on an exstension got them all out. put the new ones in, tightened them up correctly. sprayed a quick burst of startin fluid were the carbs are supposed to be, and started for about 2 seconds. so fixed that issue, now tommorow gonna change the oil and filter, bolt and seal the pickup cover back on. and maybe shave that large *** rear fender flush. and order tires , mirriors and maybe a new windscreen, the one on it is flipping cut plexiglass.
 
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