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· Registered
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Voltage at the battery.
12.03 DCV without R/R at idle
12.65 DCV with R/R at idle
12.50 DCV with R/R at 2500 or 4000rpm.
When it happens, the voltage changes +/- 0.1 at 2500rpm.

Voltage at the alternator.
25ACV at idle
41ACV at 2500
65ACV at 4000.

I don't think it is coil. The engine runs no issues without R/R.
I'm suspecting stator, harness from stator to R/R, R/R, harness from R/R to junction box, junction box, harness from junction box to somewhere.

· Registered
1,527 Posts
I suggested (I believe) to by pass all stock wiring. Just use the 3 Stator wires going directly (add wire lengths you need) to the R/R and the +/-side going directly to the battery. 12.03 VCD is too low, by the way, you should have a constant 13.8 volts. 12 VDC will drop down to 9 volts under load. I really think you have a bad Stator. :)

· Administrator
5,160 Posts
Thanks for the detailed response. This helps a lot.

Let's talk about the battery first. You have convinced me that the type of battery you are using is fine but what we have not seen is the results of a battery load test. 12.03 volts is way too low!!! Again, if it were me, I would fully charge the battery and take it to a battery shop and have it load tested. If it checks ok, then we can put that matter to rest and I promise never to mention the battery again! 😁

In regards to bypassing the battery sensor. How many wires are connected to your positive battery terminal? You should have one extra wire. This extra wire is the sensor bypass wire that connects to your wiring harness where the battery sensor used to plug in. If you don't have this extra wire, then somehow over the years, the bypass procedure has been eliminated or, you have a loose wire that never got reconnected to the positive battery terminal. When you bypass the sensor, you have to feed voltage to the junction box. If the junction box does not see this voltage it assumes your battery electrolyte level has dipped below the sensor and in all likelihood it will curtail or stop the battery charging voltage. Normally the bypass is done with a resistor inline to the positive battery terminal, but apparently some folks wire it up without the resistor.

You can easily get the 24 VDC that you need to check the R/R with two 12 volt batteries in series.

I don't have the exact manual you have so I can't follow exactly what test procedures you are using but it sounds like you are doing everything right. Reading ahead it looks like your AC voltages coming from the stator are good, but the battery voltage is too low, thus I would have the battery load tested.

It sounds like you are ready almost ready for step 4 which is to run new wires, even if these are temporary.

Keep at it. We will solve this!
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