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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after getting my gauge assembly back from the speedometer shop and paying 1.5 hours of labor my tachometer is now inoperable. Before going in it fluttered a little between 2 and 3 thousand rpms, now it goes up to between 7 and 8k and just stays there. The strange thing is that it tries to read for a few seconds, then it goes up to near redline. It is almost as if a component was leaking or breaking down. Strangely, it does it with the bike not running, as in no coil reading! Anyone have any ideas? Seen this before? Fixed this before? (really a stretch I know) Have a schematic for the tach board? Know where there is a used one? (my gauge face is perfect, my suspicion is the board).

BTW, the shop said that all they did was touch up the solder joints as they didn't have the equipment to power it up.

Help?

Thanks,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx
 

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I would take it apart and check out their "touch up" job. Some people like to make "solder cannonballs" at every connection which can form solder bridges between component pads. Also look very closely at where a component goes through the board pad for solder pull-back which may be a bad connection.
Take a look...you may be able to spot something.

Post back.
 

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I'd look with a magnifying glass for cracks in the circuit boards and in the printed circuit traces too. If you see signs of solder that has been re-heated poorly, a small 30 Watt soldering iron and rosin flux along with some solderwick can clean up bad joints.

Clean the excess rosin from the board with 70% alcohol and a stiff small brush(I used to build Aerospace test equipment and test cables).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies, this is a follow-up.

All solder joints were reflowed, but it didn't fix the problem. Upon further observation I noted that the tach would try to work for about 2-10 seconds and then give erroneous readings. My guess is that a component is heating up, but the tip of the finger test did not indicate a hot problem. With no schematics I thought I was in trouble. Calling around gave me a lead of a salvage/used parts place called independent cycle (you can google it). As good luck would have it they had an NOS tach, complete, in box, for 170.00. It is installed and works perfectly. Incidentally, if the dealer had still stocked the new tach, which they did not, it listed for 360.00.

I appreciate the help and interest. The ZN1100's were only made for two years I believe, 1984 and 1985 and thusly I get a little nervous for specific parts to this rather exclusive and rare model. This problem turned out to have a perfect part for a fix though, and I am glad to have found it.

All the best,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx
 
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