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I've switched spark plugs, plug wires, swapped the coils around, swapped the boot from the carb to the engine, cleaned the carbs and jets(if I take the diaphragm out I can see strait through the holes in the carb), checked the float levels, and sprayed starting fluid around the carb to look for a vacuum leak.

The header will get hot if I have all the boots from the carb to airbox off and use a piece of cardboard to choke the 4th carb.

If anyone has any ideas on what to check that would be great.
 

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Most likely the carb is still dirty. Put a bottle of Gumout for high mileage engines in the gas tank and run it through. It may help. If that doesn't do it, pull the carbs again and clean.
 

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Speaking of those plastic jet plugs, I used an o-ring from a hardware store on one of mine a while back and the last time I cleaned the carbs, I could not remove the plug. the o-ring was too fat and I had trouble getting the plug back in. Evidently, it swelled. I ordered the proper o-rings for the other 3 ($$) the last time I cleaned the carbs and they worked great. I would have had to destroy the plastic plug to get it out and I saw that they were not available any more so I left the plug in place and the carb worked fine after cleaning it.
 

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The orings may provide a little bit of seal but the plug itself is held in the slow jet well by a casting in the float bowl. The plugs don't need to be rock solid tight for the plugs to seal.
 

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By RoadRunner: Speaking of those plastic jet plugs, I used an o-ring from a hardware store on one of mine a while back and the last time I cleaned the carbs, I could not remove the plug. the o-ring was too fat and I had trouble getting the plug back in. Evidently, it swelled. I ordered the proper o-rings for the other 3 ($$) the last time I cleaned the carbs...
For the next time a metric nitrile or viton o-ring kit may have a size that will fit. I got a kit from HarborFreight & it has come in handy a number of times, and not just for the carburetors. Some auto parts stores sell individual o-rings from the kits.
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While you probably tried to clean the jets, I have found this to be something of a waste of time. Particularly the #35 slow jet. New jets are in order; the main and secondary main as well as the slow jet. The emulsion tube for the main jet and secondary main jets needs to be removed and cleaned and the small holes on the sides need cleaned. The air jets which are under the slide diagram (and tops of course) need to flow properly and I believe there is an air jet on the intake venturi edge that needs to be cleaned. You need to ensure flow from slow air jet all the way through to the orifice on the bottom of the intake venturi. The pilot mixture screw well needs cleaned out good as well. Yeah, there are a few things that need to be done to make sure CV34s work as they should. Once they are sorted, they are excellent carbs.
 

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What he said. hee. All of the tiny passages are there for a reason & must be unobstructed. I've completely disassembled & clean my carburetors one time. I think WG has done a couple more than I have, give or take a couple hundred, so do whatever he says.






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