Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Huy guys, I just picked up my first bike in a couple of years. When i bought the bike the guy told me that there was a bad battery on it, so we jumped it and drove it home no trouble. Since then I've noticed that the bike isn't charging correctly.

I'm not really familar with the vulcan with regards to location of stator, regulator/rectifier, etc. However, I am an automotive mechanic and pretty much willing to try anything with some help.

The only thing I've really checked yet is that the bike is only putting out 12v when running (about 12.1v when off and about 12.3v when running). Is there any way i can check to see if this is the stator or regulator/rectifier?? Are there are tutorials or guides around which can help me narrow down the problem??

Thanks a million for any information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
i've narrowed it down to the stator....stator was only putting out about 12-15vac when bike was revving at 5k. Paper i had from electrexusa said it was supposed to be outputting nearly 50vac. Also, i am wondering if i checked the output of the stator correctly.....i checked the voltage between the 3 yellow wires on the plug that goes into the RR under the battery holder...is this correct?

I am also having trouble removing the stator from the bike....can somebody give me some information on how to do this?? :roll:

i've pulled off the cover but from what i've seen before the stator is usually attached to the cover....this one is a little different. How exactly do i get the stator out??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
VN750

They are good bikes. I have had mine for 2 years now. It is a 1993. Not many up here in Canada as they quit selling them here a few years back. The link I gave you leads to a lot of knowledgeable, helpful people who have had just about every experience possible with these bikes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts


lefty=loosy, righty=tighty



Measure with a compass from the center of the rotor bolt and cut a steel plate that size.



My plate is 5 1/4" across (circle with 2 5/8" radius). I used 16 gauge because that's what they had at my store.
Heavier gauge would be fine and would only require a thicker gasket and longer screws.



*BEFORE CUTTING ENGINE* Put modeling clay on steel plate. Press against engine.
All screw holes are 6mm (to accommodate 6mm machine screws) made with DRILL PRESS through clay impression.
Please do not try to freehand this.









Spacer is made from removed section of inner case, which is threaded all the way through.
The machine screws should meet in the middle, or,if you prefer, use one long screw and secure with a nut.
Please use thread lock.



Mark inner case with a compass scribe from the center of the rotor bolt so that the circle is of correct size.



Stuff oily rags into the ports and cut with a small rotary wheel. Save the part you remove, this will be your spacer.
Wipe away metal dust inside rotor with oily rag.



It is not necessary to reroute the stator wires (see next entry), and is not done in the TOC mod.
You can fish the wires through the existing case hole, if you prefer. In either case, use caution when handling the pickup wires.






Trace the grommet on the outer cover and grind to just inside of the scribe lines so that it will be a snug fit.
Grind inner case ribs flat to make room for wires and screw heads.




Reassemble using high temp gasket maker as the OEM gasket is now too thin.







Run engine for a few minutes. Check with multimeter. Finish with oil and filter change.

 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top