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hey there guys, my first post.. ive been reading alot of threads on this site there seems to be a TON of people on here who know ALOT about these bikes so im looking forward to getting some help with my problem, thanks in advance :)


ok so... i bought this 1986 gpz600 (its my second 1986 gpz600... love these bikes) i sold my first one because it developed a problem not starting... im onto my second one and having problems with this bike also! (lol)

i have only had the bike a few weeks.. the guy i got it from said it needed spark plugs and thats why it was acting up (when i first got it it would almost stop reving at 5000 put if u played with the trottle it would then rev past and work great..) so i changed the plugs and after that it ran worse!! with the new plugs it would not rev past 4000 at all.. so i decided (probly not the smartest idea because i have no experience with carbs) to clean the carbs, i didnt not take them apart just took the bowls off the bottom and soaked the carbs in gas then sprayed carb cleaner in them and thru all the jet holes and everything.. i put them back on the bike and it ran even worse yet.... i tried adjusting the screws on the bottom as i read on here (turn them all the way in then CCW 2 turns) it ran a little better after that but not 100% at all and the same problems still exist.. if i put the choke on full when im driving i can rev it to 7000... i dunno why that is.. i changed the CDI box.. the plug wires dont seem to be in bad shape.. i could really use some help here i have no idea what to do to get the bike to run good..., thanks for anyones help!!!!! i REALLY need it at this point!!! i tried adjustng the screws in the bottom of the carbs out another turn today but that seemed to make it run even worse it would barley rev at all... View attachment 43905 i also have a 2 different coils for it and 4 different plug wires but the coils are off a 89 and dont seem to be 100% the same.. i dont understand why it would run worse with new plugs?
 

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Make sure the plugs are properly gapped or the bike will not run properly; they aren't ready to go out of the box. Maybe you did gap them but just trying to think of possibilities. However, I would say your main problem is in the carbs. If the engine will rev higher with the choke on then it sounds like the reason for your lack of rpm is that the bike is starving for fuel (running lean) at high rpm. The carbs probably need a proper cleaning, adjusting, and then need to be synced. Probably also wouldn't hurt to put in a new air cleaner if you haven't done that already as it is good regular maintenance and if it has been ignored like air filters often are, if will restrict air flow. If you don't have the tools/knowledge to do this it might be worth the investment to take it to a shop as I know a shop around here will do it for like $65-$70 so it really isn't that bad. Might want to just shop around local prices as the gauges for syncing carbs will cost you more than that. If you do want to do the work yourself, start by getting a good Kawasaki service manual.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I did gap the new plugs at .8 which is what I read online, the ones I took out had way less of a gap.... The plugs are a 8 not a 6 which means there hotter? It's all I could find.. That wouldn't affect it would it? The cheapest I've found just to have them cleaned is 140 bucks..... More than I can. Spend right now I can get a set off a 89 550 for cheap, are they the same? Thankss
 

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I don't know why people are so intimidated by cleaning carbs. As long as you aren't a total ham fist, you can do it! There is a TON of youtube videos about how to do it. I found one when I was learning that the guy had the same keihins that were in my 'ja. (heres the vid: How to clean motorcycle carbs 1/3 - YouTube).
I agree with cpg, it sounds like your mixture is off. When my bike was only running and reving on choke, it was pretty clear that was it. If a bike is running too lean (which I believe yours is), running with a bit of choke (which basically richens the mixture) allows the bike to run in the "optimal mixture zone".
I would drop the carbs, and remove the pilot jets, main jets, emulsifier tubes (thing the main jet screws into), mixture screws (and the spring, washer, and oring). Boil all the brass you remove in a 50/50 mixture of water and lemon juice (yes, lemon juice) for 15 minutes. Best carb cleaner I've seen.
Pay attention to the sizes written on the mains. usually the outside 2 cylinders run different size jets than the inside 2. If there aren't numbers stamped (like 108, 105, etc) just keep the 2 sets separate.
Spray out all the orifices with plenty of carb cleaner, and spray. What I did was I boiled the entire carb rack (less the jets, float bowls, floats, diaphrams, needles) in lemon juice and water for about half an hour. Then sprayed out the holes with air.

Make sure you inspect the diaphrams. If there is even the smallest tear, your hooped. Probably cheaper to buy a new carb rack.
 
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