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I have a 1989 454 LTD that seems to have an ignition issue that surrounds the Igniter. I can grab the igniter box and give it a squeeze and cut off one or both cylinders. I've read the issues surrounding the Igniters and seems like this one has gone bad. Sometimes the bike runs perfectly but others it runs on only one cylinders and others won't fire at all. Kawasaki says the part number is; 21119-1219. I was wondering if anyone had one they'd be willing to part with reasonably inexpensive to keep an old bike running.
 

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I could not for the life of me remember my old login information so I made a new screen name but then I went back and found my old information. The 1989 454 LTD is a friend of mines and the Igniter seems to be bad. Anybody at all have one of that part number? It seems to fit a bunch of the old kawasaki bikes including 600cc sport bikes and others.
 

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1983 GPz 750, green
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Is the 454 LTD a 4 cylinder? If so you could probably swap out any Kawasaki igniter 'black box' used on a another 4 cylinder. They are all prettey much the same thing just different part numbers. Maybe the wiring is different too. Point being they do the same thing, usually advance the timing to 40deg before top dead center when over 2 or 3000 rpm. I know because I have tried various ones on my bikes and it doesn't make any difference. There is no magic here, just electronics. FYI a '83 GPz 750 has part number 21119-1160 for the black box, but a different part number on a 550 but both work in either case. Sometimes the 'hardwiring' to the black box is different, check your wiring diagram. These 'black box' igniters are not as problematic as many people make them out to be. Its usually something else....
 

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1983 GPz 750, green
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In addition, a GPz 550 has part number 21119-1113 for the 'black box' igniter. Wiring and functionality are identical for the GPz 750 with parts number 21119-1160. I know because I tried and they are the same.
 

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The 454LTD is a twin cylinder. According to the part number it fits late 80's to mid 90's twins. Vulcan, Ninja 500, and LTD.
 

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1983 GPz 750, green
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A twin cylinder is very easy. Only one ignition coil usually because the spark fires every 180 degrees. No nonsense.
She should fire on the compression stroke and on the exhaust stroke of each cylinder. Spark on exhaust makes no difference, just easier to do mechanically. Think about that for a bit........ If you press or squish your 'black box' and things change, well it would indicate to me a faulty circuit, broken wire, or similar. Then you need to replace the 'black box' or get it fixed. Try it with a small clamp and see if it stays working. Then report back.
 

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When you squeeze the igniter, is it possible that you're flexing the wire harness? Maybe the igniter is bad, but I'd make sure the problem isn't a poor terminal connection or loose wire or something where the harness plugs into the igniter.

I would try to get the correct igniter, since the circuitry is probably set up for the correct ignition advance. You might be able to use different igniter from a later model, but the ones I saw only have one pickup, so you may have to rewire yours to have only 1 pickup or swap pulsing coils.
 

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I tried to isolate the wiring from the box. When I squeezed the box I tried to make sure not to flex the harness. I also pulled the harness tape back a way and gave each of the wires the "tug test" to see if any wires were broken inside the harness.
 

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I tried to isolate the wiring from the box. When I squeezed the box I tried to make sure not to flex the harness. I also pulled the harness tape back a way and gave each of the wires the "tug test" to see if any wires were broken inside the harness.
Those are all good tests. Did you also unplug the connector and examine the internal contacts for corrosion?
Giving it a shot of Deoxit and then immediately plugging and unplugging the connector several times will work wonders.
 

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No green crusties, I gave it a shot of oil and plugged and replugged many times. I'm thinking the board inside the box has a cold solder joint or maybe a corrosion/water issue. I'm not gonna pull it apart, just trying to find a replacement that works.
 

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Oil is not the best thing to put on electrical contacts. It prevents corrosion but also prevents or cuts down on electrical flow and if the joint heats up, can aid in starting a fire. If nothing else, I would suggest hosing it down with electrical contact cleaner to get rid of any traces of oil.

Speaking from experience, the connectors do not have to be green or crusty to cause increased resistance to electricity flow. When new, the connectors are bright and shiny but as they dull resistance increases. It can be really tough to get the connectors shiny again. I have used very fine emery paper and a shaved popsicle stick with good results but the easiest method I have found is DeOxit available at most electronic supply stores.

Anyway, you may be correct about a cold solder joint but I think most of these units are sealed. Keep us posted.
 

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I tried baking it on a low heat (I've seen this trick on other potted CDI's that had water intrusion) and it ran great on both cylinders for about 5 minutes then all spark died and now I can't get it to crank at all. My buddy is desperate, anyone have a 21119-1219 CDI they are willing to part with before I buy one off FeeBay?
 

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I had issues with my igniter and it behaved much the way you say yours is doing. I would up buying a used one of ebay for about $35 or so but that was a few years ago. The one I bought still works fine so sometimes you can get a used one that is still in very good condition.
 

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Edit still is an option. Click on the row of vertical dots at the top right-hand corner of your message.
 
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