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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all im new to this forum and could see that most off you know what your talking about unlike me. Every time i start my bike and pull the clutch in knock it down into 1st and it jumps forward and stalls. Ive checked the plates and basket and they all look fine with no wear or notches but the oil was a a blacky gray colour should i change the gear oil and try again. Ive tryed looking for a cable tensioner but dunno where to look cheers in advance.
 

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If the oil is grey it usually means there's water in it. You should change the oil right away, try to ride it for a bit then change it again. If it turns grey again then it's possible you have some leaking seals. For the water to get into your crank case it would have to leak through the head gasket into your crank case then through the right side crank seal into your case. If you measured the thickness of all your clutch rings and they are in spec then your clutch is good and needs to be adjusted. If they are worn out then the clutch should disengage just fine and slip rather than jump when you put it in gear. The only thing that would cause it to jump is being improperly adjusted. Screw the adjuster on the clutch lever in until the cable has no play, if it still jumps you could have a worn out clutch rod (the rod that separates the clutch disks running through the crankcase), or the lever on the crank case which operates the clutch rod. Do you have a manual? If not, search you tube for a video, you might get lucky and find a good visual.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
cheers for the advise mate i will get onto it tomorrow would i have to measure the clutch rings with a micrometer
 

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My oil turns gray all the time from clutch plates and metal contaminates, ect. To me that is completely normal. When water/coolant got in my oil it turned milky white and thick.


 

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Discussion Starter #6
that looks nasty does anyone know where i could download a user manual from. I didn't get one when i brought the bike?
 

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Come to think of it my oil turns grey too. You would use calipers to measure the thickness of the rings, when you put it back together make sure you lube the clutch plates real good or you'll have the same problem. Did you try adjusting the cable yet?
 

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You simply want about 1/8" of an adjusted gap between your lever and the perch mount. The clutch behavior you are describing has nothing to do with clutch cable adjustment. We need some history and more details on your bike. Did this engine sit without being run for a long time ? Did you recently overheat the clutch ? How thick is the tranny oil viscocity ? Like others commented milky oil means anti-freeze has mixed with the tranny oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well i brought the bike about a week ago and the person who i got it off said it had been standing for about 2-3 months. The clutch was working fine when i had it but was teaching my miss's foster brother to ride and he had high revs on and was slowly letting the clutch out but he would stall it 9 times out off 10 and ever since then it has bin doing it. The gear oil was a more off a gray colour than a black. cheers for all the help so far.
 

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The clutch adjustment has a bit to do with the operation of the clutch I think, and it looks like it's adjusted all the way out so it should slip before it jumps. But dude above is right, you got some other stuff going on. Oil changing should give you a few answers.
 

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When you pull the clutch lever that shaft is supposed to seperate the clutch disks to disengage the clutch. Yeah that's normal. If you take apart the clutch basket you should remove the clutch cable at the hand lever before you reassemble. Push that rod in and turn the clutch lever on the gear case until the rod is as far in as it goes. You should feel the rod move in and out when you fiddle with the gear case clutch lever. Then reassemble your clutch basket. Once it's reassembled then you can hook the clutch cable back up and adjust it until there's just a little play. When I rebuilt my 250 I had a few of the same troubles.
 

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You could also try removing the cable completely and turning the gear case clutch lever to see if you feel the clutch disengaging. That arm might be in the wrong position. Not likely but worth a shot instead of tearing it all down again.
 

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You know what I just remembered? My 250 had the same problem with jumping. My disks were all within specs but the rod your talking about seemed too short to seperate the disks. So I found a washer and installed it at the end opf the rod where the ball bearing is to give it a little more length. You should already have some type of washer or something there. It worked for me! Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
cheers for that mate will have another go in the morning also could some one tell me if i need my top and bottom end rebuilt with new bearings and piston+ring? as i think theres a funny knocking coming from the engine video below cheers in advance Nath

YouTube - My kx
 

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video sounds normal to me.

I have had this problem. But is common to my 1986 KX250. What i found: New clutch adjusted all the way would fix and cable rubbed on actuator arm which caused old cable to break. This alerted me to a problem. I had to adjust the cable to the max to be able to properly separate the clutch pressuse / plates.

I removed clutch push rod, actuator arm, ball bearing, and push plate. To me the ball bearing looked too small and pitted and the only worn part. I replaced the ball bearing with a larger unpitted steel ball from a 1984 KX250. Problem solved.
 
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