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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI, I have a 2000 ke 100 it quit running last fall, and never got around to fixing it, any how, the last time I rode it before it quit it took probably 30 kicks to get it going and barely ran at idle. Then riding down the rode home it ran fine,at idle it was running rough like it wanted to kill, then put it in the garage, and haven't rode it since.
It smells like it is getting gas, it has spark but won't start, tonight I am going to put some starter fluid in the cylinder and see if it starts.
I pulled the carb off and cleaned the float bowl and there was little to no sediment in it was going to tear it apart but don't want to attempt tearing into a carb, had a nightmare with the katana.
Does any one have any thoughts to what could be wrong?
thanks
 

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Pull the head off (4 bolts on top) and see if it's got a partial seize on it. The cylinder walls should be smooth, and not have vertical lines running through them. Also: did you check the oil in the injection tank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, I put gas in the cylinder and checked for spark, then put plug back in and still won't fire.
Could it be low compression, if I have time I will pull the head and check for partail seize.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi, I took a closer look and was kick starting it and noticed some gas was coming out of the carb. Went on internet and found a carb diagram and it looks like some parts of the carb are missing. They are the parts that screw into the hole just under the choke hole, can't think of name off the top of my head, I ordered the parts should be here tuesday.
 

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Vintage bike addict
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air fuel mixture screw
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi, I got the carb parts but they weren't the ones I was looking for, I tried putting them in the hole but they were to big didn't belong there.
So I took the carb in to the dealer and a diagram of it and asked them were they go, he looked at the diagram and said I didn't need them.
The hole that was empty, he said a plug went there, so I got a plug and put it in.
Put the carb on the bike and it still won't start.
We put lighter fluid in the cylinder, and it is getting spark. We checked the compression by putting our thumb over the spark plug hole and kicked it over and it pushed my thumb off so it's good.
But is still won't take off.
Any Ideas of whats wrong with it?
thanks
 

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AZ's Official Mechanic
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Do you have a calibrated thumb? GET A GAUGE. You (we) need the NUMBER.
first time i gotta say i agree with ELR on this one. :mrgreen:

oh and when you get the guage make sure ya hold the throttle WIDE OPEN and kick till guage stops (10kicks to be sure)
 

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Sounds to me like you're do for a needle and seat or having mixture issues. I wouldn't bother with a compression test, this is a two stroke i believe? Much more difficult than 4 stroke.

Basics.

Good beefy blue spark from plug? Plug has a slightly white color?

Are you premixing fuel or relying on the oiler? Drain fuel in tank and try premixing just to see what happens.
 

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Vintage bike addict
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and use WD40 for start spray on 2 strokes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi, tomorrow I will get a compression tester and check the compression.
It is getting a beefy bluish white spark, and it smells like it's getting gas.
I will put some wd40 in the cylinder and see what happens.
How exactly does a 2 stroke rotary disk valve engine work, the disk valve spins on the crank opening and closing the hole where the carburator is.
How does the gas to the cylinder to get ignited?
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi, I sprayed alot of wd40 in the chamber and did nothing.
To have a good spark how big of a gap should it be able to jump?
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi, I got a compression tester like you guys suggested, and tested it and found out that.
When I first started it was 93psi and then the fifth test was down to 83psi so it got lower as I did the more tests, and did ten kicks and held throttle wide open.
So does this mean I need new rings?
thanks
 

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To perform a compression test properly on a reed valve two stroke engine it is necessary to block the intake and exhaust ports. On a rotary valve, I don't know.

Even with weak compression, the engine should start. No engine will fire on WD-40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi, I will go home and try and block exhaust and intake ports and see what reading I come up with.
 

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You will require special tools to do this. Special as in made for your engine only special.

I find it hard to believe that compression is the issue here. Has the bikes performance begun to reduce significantly prior to it's failure. Or did it run as normal until it died?

Is it possible the exhaust is blocked?

You have flushed the fuel out and put in fresh, correct?

Can you post a close up pic of your spark plug?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi, I would get the special tools needed, if I were going to do that hopefully that is a last resort.
It kinda came kinda suddenly over a few days it, I was up town renting a video and it took over 30 kick to get it started in the parking lot, it idled real low and wanted to kill, but out on the road it was fine had normal power. Come up to a stop sign it would almost kill. But before this it rode and idled fine.
It had a plug that was 4 months old and I put in a new one last fall, hasn't even been run on it.
I drained most of the gas out there was a little left in the bottom of the tank, but then filled it with fresh gas.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi, I took off the exhaust pipe to see if the ports was plugged, I kicked it over with my hand and saw the air fuel mix seeping right down the cylinder.
So I took the head and block off and didn't like what I saw the piston has a chunk of metal busted off and rings are all pushed to one side, the cyclinder is scored and has big gouges by the exhaust port.

I am going to take the cylinder to a machine shop and see what they think of it, it probably can't be saved I think.

Does this mean it's going to need atleast new piston, rings, maybe cylinder, and what about the bottom end?

thanks
 

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Eddie Lawson is God!
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If the piston skirt is broken, you need to do a bottom end. IIRC, KE 100s have an iron lined cylinder bore, so have it bored to the smallest size that will get the marks out. Take the cylinder to a machinist, get his opinion, ORDER THE SIZE HE SAYS. Then have the machinist WITH YOUR NEW PISTON IN HAND, bore the cylinder to the correct size. Make 100% sure the skirt isn't broken off the old piston. If so, get thee to a motorcycle shop. Do NOT attempt to split cases on your own. YOU WILL MAKE SCRAP. Then break it in like a new motor.
 
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