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Discussion Starter #1
I joined this forum today to post an issue I just experienced with the ignition key. I have used this forum to study my headlight blowing the 10 amp fuse semi-regularly (not yet resolved).

Yesterday, August 1, 2020, I shut my bike down to go shopping. When I returned to the bike and turned the ignition key, the instrument lights momentarily flashed, but went out immediately. The start button was non-responsive. I assumed I had blown the main 30 amp fuse. After checking all the fuses, I found none blown. I later jumped the starter solenoid and the starter kicked in, but the engine would not (ignite) run. I eventually called family for help and loaded the bike on a trailer.

I searched this forum again for helpful hints. I rechecked my fuses, wires and switches to no avail. Someone had posted that their ignition switch had failed due to poor soldering. I turned my focus on the ignition switch. I noticed that nearly every cycle of the ignition switch, I would see the instrument lights flash briefly. I then applied inward pressure on the key as I turned it. The bike started (YAH!), but when I released the inward pressure the engine shut down. I repeated this 3 or 4 times. I concluded that something went "south" inside the key ignition.

Kawi ignition switch (1).jpg
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I unmounted the key ignition and found 2 screws on the back plate. I proceeded to open the assembly. I found that 1 of the 3 spring assisted electrical contacts was stuck in the down position. I applied some lubricant and freed it's movement. Now all 3 contacts will be made, when rotating the key, eliminating the need to hold the key inward. I took extra care when disassembling the ignition. I was concerned that some parts under spring tension, might fly out. I had no issues, but came close to losing 2 tiny ball bearing that allow the contact cylinder to rotate. (wiring harness with contact plate, still attached to bike)

I am sure this will solve my problem when I reassemble and install the key ignition. Unfortunately I stripped the head of 1 backing screw (factory installed with blue grade lock tight) when disassembling. I'm now hunting for a very slender, fine threaded bolt. :eek:(
 

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Yep, I believe you've got it.

As for the screws. Find a JIS #2 screwdriver. possibly #1. Those look like Phillips but are really JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and take a JIS driver or you risk stripping them very easily. The single dot in one corner of the cross on top identifies them as JIS. check your master cylinder lid...

Here or search for JIS screwdriver


Edit: most hardware stores have a good assortment of metric screws, maybe even in stainless so no corrosion issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wish I had known that the screws don't accept a common north american Philips screwdriver....I wondered why neither sized screw driver got a good bite on the screw. I blamed the lock-tight....ooops. Thanks for the link to the JIS screw drivers.
 
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