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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up a 3010 Mule with no spark, entire ignition system has been replaced (igniter, coils and pulse coil). All wiring has been rung out and checks ok. Also replaced fuel pump and fuel pump relay. What am I missing?????
 

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Look at your wiring diagram. Likely find a ground issue, or connection issue assuming all the components were replaced by new components and not used ones.

Also have a look at the flywheel key. Seen a few sheared from I assume hydraulically locked cylinders-usually from carb overflowing.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Wiring harness has been unwrapped and thoroughly checked from engine to fuse box. All wires rung out, everything tests fine. Flywheel was pulled, all ok. I have 4.5 peak volts from pulse coil at the igniter when engine is cranking. 12 volts to brown wire at igniter and good ground at igniter. 12 volts to coils but blue and white wire never go to ground (0 peak volts across coils). I have tried 2 igniters ( 1 new,1 used). Currently I'm looking for another mule in this area to test igniters. I'm open to any other ideas.

Thanks
Pete
 
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Yes, but I see on the wiring diagram that it is only used on European models. Gray wire goes to start switch plug but no corresponding wire to start switch.
 

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OK:

1. Set meter to volts.
2. On ignitor, push red meter lead down beside grey wire to make contact with pin.
3. Black meter lead to battery ground.
4. Key on, take reading.

Post back with reading.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
0 volts on gray wire at igniter with switch on.
As I said earlier, the gray wire ends at the start switch plug and the print shows this to be an option and only used on European models. I am assuming the European models use a different igniter. This igniter is part #21119-1583.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
0 volts on gray wire at igniter with switch on.
As I said earlier, the gray wire ends at the start switch plug and the print shows this to be an option and only used on European models. I am assuming the European models use a different igniter. This igniter is part #21119-1583.
 

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On the back or inside of key switch, (they can be taken apart) depending on style, you will find a 100 ohm resistor. It is either open, bad connection or key switch has a bad contact that is not bringing it into the circuit.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
This key switch is new, there is no resistor internal or external. Nor is there a wire from the key switch to the plug that goes to the gray wire.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Are you sure we are talking about the same machine? This is a 2003 3010 Mule KAF620-E1
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I bought the machine not running, previous owner never had it running.
Switch is oem.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Also, I looked at other switches on e-bay, none of them have a lead from the switch to the gray wire.
 

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Are you saying that the grey wire comes out of the key switch harness and just hangs there and connects to nothing?
 
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Discussion Starter #20
The gray wire runs from the igniter to the plug of the key switch, the key switch plug has NO wire going to the switch. Nothing is hanging.
Look on page 16-28 in the service manual, it shows a diagram of the ignition system and the gray wire is not used.
 
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