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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2004 Mule 3010 4x4 runs only on 1 cylinder

Just inherated a 3010, will start and run only when fully choked. Front cylinder seems to be the only one running, rear does not even heat up the exhaust pipe. Originally no gas was getting to the rear cylinder, cleaned the carb, it was really dirty. The fuel pump will work only when connected directly to the battery. From all I have read on this forum I am leaning towards the Igniter. have ordered the manual for the machine. The rear plug appears to fir, but is a white spark, not blue.
Any tips on how to check the igniter?
 

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There is a fuel pump relay that controls the fuel pump power. Sounds as if that is disconnected or faulty, or the fuse is blown. It could be related to a bad igniter, but I would check elsewhere first.

The start and run only when choked is almost always plugged carburetor problems. To clean one when that is the symptom it is necessary to remove the carb, disassamble, clean with a good non-foaming spray carb cleaner, or soak the body, then blow all the passages out with low pressure compressed air. Then reassemble if the parts are still good, and it should run just fine.

On the two cylinder Mule it is also common for one or more of the pushrods for the valves to become disconnected from the valve train if the valves were not kept properly adjusted. Check your valve adjustment and the compression.

The manual has a section on how to check the igniter if you have the proper digital multimeter (do not get on the wrong leads or you will burn out the switching diode in the igniter), but the easiest way is to purchase a cheap spark plug wire tester from Harbor Freight for a buck, put it between the plug and the plug cable and spin it over. If the tester flashes, you have spark. Test both plug wires one at a time.

Do not do a spark test without a load like the spark plug wire tester on one plug wire connected to one installed spark plug, and an installed plug on the other, or you can blow a coil or the igniter from undischarged current overload. Also, do not pull the plugs and set them on the valve cover and spin it over hoping to see a spark. That changes the designed load impedance and will also blow the igniter, and can cause gasoline vapors from any open spark plug holes to shoot out flames if the spark is near those vapors. I know a guy that burned his new house down doing just that, he saved his Mule, but his wife divorced him for being stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
RCW, Thanks for the help, took the carb apart over the weekend. Found all the jets were cloged. Cleaned them all. Mule now runs like it should. Used it the rest of the weekend. Will stall if left ideling to long, but other than that it runs great.
 

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There is a fuel pump relay that controls the fuel pump power. Sounds as if that is disconnected or faulty, or the fuse is blown. It could be related to a bad igniter, but I would check elsewhere first.

The start and run only when choked is almost always plugged carburetor problems. To clean one when that is the symptom it is necessary to remove the carb, disassamble, clean with a good non-foaming spray carb cleaner, or soak the body, then blow all the passages out with low pressure compressed air. Then reassemble if the parts are still good, and it should run just fine.

On the two cylinder Mule it is also common for one or more of the pushrods for the valves to become disconnected from the valve train if the valves were not kept properly adjusted. Check your valve adjustment and the compression.

The manual has a section on how to check the igniter if you have the proper digital multimeter (do not get on the wrong leads or you will burn out the switching diode in the igniter), but the easiest way is to purchase a cheap spark plug wire tester from Harbor Freight for a buck, put it between the plug and the plug cable and spin it over. If the tester flashes, you have spark. Test both plug wires one at a time.

Do not do a spark test without a load like the spark plug wire tester on one plug wire connected to one installed spark plug, and an installed plug on the other, or you can blow a coil or the igniter from undischarged current overload. Also, do not pull the plugs and set them on the valve cover and spin it over hoping to see a spark. That changes the designed load impedance and will also blow the igniter, and can cause gasoline vapors from any open spark plug holes to shoot out flames if the spark is near those vapors. I know a guy that burned his new house down doing just that, he saved his Mule, but his wife divorced him for being stupid.
Man o Man,from what I have seen in the last 3 days reading on this forum,you are the bomb responding to all the differant problems on this site.I am one hell of a wrench with 330k worth of tools and I can see serious talent in you.very nice job friend,,A plus,,,Moe:eek:
 

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Man o Man,from what I have seen in the last 3 days reading on this forum,you are the bomb responding to all the differant problems on this site.I am one hell of a wrench with 330k worth of tools and I can see serious talent in you.very nice job friend,,A plus,,,Moe:eek:
Moe, So you are new here eh? Welcome aboard. As you can see we have some variety of Mule skinners around here, some new and some not so new..
It takes all kinds to make the world go around....Some of this Kawasaki stuff is strange to an old stovebolt shadetree. But most of it is a trade off between old world mechanicals and new world electronics. Sometimes it is strange how they mate together, kinda like mateing Kangaroos to Zebras.........
 
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