[ABC2]

2006 gas mule 3010 was left setting for 3 months, and was used dailly to that point. It started up but ran rough with smoke. Flooding

pulled carb and put in kit and cleaned with carb cleaner. same problem

pulled and cleaned carb again. same problem. I can remove fuel supply line while running and runs fine for few seconds then dies. reattach fuel line and restart and pinch off fuel line with thumb and finger and runs fine when sweet pinch is found. I can pinch line to the point of starving out and engine dies.

bought new float with another new needle and relay based on advice of local guy. removed and cleaned carb again and added new float and new neddle. replaced relay with new one and new head gasket. same problem.

Also I have pulled plugs after running it for a few and they are black and damp but not fouled. replaced and engine ran fine with fuel line pinch.

my skill level is low and i am tapped out any help would be appreciated.

 

[custer]

did you adjust the float? did you clean out the float valve port? does the choke function? is there gas getting into the air filter housing?

 

[ABC2]

did you adjust the float? did you clean out the float valve port? does the choke function? is there gas getting into the air filter housing?

Float is plastic so cannot adjust but put in a new one. Yes I cleaned. Choke does function. No gas in air filter housing.

Thanks for looking in!

 

[imported_cookie_monster]

If it's truly flooding, there is only one way for the fuel to get into the throat. Through the needle valve which won't shut the fuel off, for whatever reason.

when removing the bowl, are you perhaps seeing any reddish brown fuel and/or rust? If that's the case, check the tank.

Now...if it's simply running rich, it's possible that the air intake is partially obstructed. Or fuel in the oil, etc.

 

[ABC2]

Thank you for looking at this.

Airway is clear and no rust or color in bowl. I changed oil before I started all of this and there was fuel in oil.

Is there a shut off for the pump? Could the pump be over powering the needle valve?

 

[imported_cookie_monster]

Fuel in the crankcase can be caused by a couple different things. One (and most commonly) a stuck thermostat. Most people never notice it. But they stick open so the engine never warms up, which over time will build up fuel in the oil and the oil level rises. I call it "making oil". Two, after sitting for a period of time, sometimes fuel will siphon right through the carburetor and fill the crankcase, though, it's not very common the Mule because the tank is lower than the carb is (which is why it has a fuel pump...)

A stuck open thermostat will also cause head gaskets to fail prematurely. Sounds stupid but it happens. To check the stat, start the engine and let it run for about a minute. Then grab the top coolant line that runs from the engine and runs up the right side frame rail. It should be cold. If it warms up with the engine, the stat is probably stuck. It shouldn't even get warm until the engine reaches about 190° at which point the stat starts to open and allow coolant flow.

Pump relays usually don't die. I feel like you replaced a part that was unnecessarily deemed defective.

Carb kit is a step in the right direction, but what the kit consist of? I wasn't aware that Shindy made a kit for the 3010's...or any of the Mules for that matter. But I may be wrong. Generally speaking, unless the carburetor is pitted from water, I usually just clean them ultrasonically and replace the float valve AND THE BOWL GASKET, and it normally solves any flooding issues. Yes the pump can overpower the float valve, but only if the float valve's tip is not sealing, which can also be a function of a tiny piece of trash stuck between the tip of the needle and it's brass seat. Or a seat that is damaged in some way, like cleaning it with a drill bit.

Also check and adjust the valves. Tight intake valves will cause reversion in the intake manifold which causes a richer than normal running engine. It's a huge issue with the 4010's. The 3010's don't usually see a big problem until the valves are so tight that it's losing a little compression. It's so easy, it's worth checking. .009" on all 4 valves, IIRC (double check your service manual).

 

[ABC2]

Thanks again cookie_monster for the help.
# I will ck stat like you posted.
# Kit consisted of needle, two sets of jets (I have tried both the large and small), idle adjust screw and spring, bowl screw, bowl gasket, and two other gaskets that i didn't use.
# The only thing I have used to clean seat is compressed air and carb cleaner. What is ultrasonic cleaning?
# I have put in two different needles. One came with kit and another with float.
# local retired mechanic suggested relay change and I agree it was a waste of time and money.
# no pitting in bowl.

As I have stated my skill level is low and will need walked through valve check. I don't know what intake valve is or where it is. Same with intake manifold. I may be familiar with them just not the terminology.

From what I have learned reading other threads on this site I have located drill out places on top of carb but have not touched them.

Thanks again for help. It is appreciated.

 

[imported_cookie_monster]

The service manual outlines the valve adjustment perfectly, with pictures.

 

[ABC2]

OK finally got time to check thermastat and it is not stuck. There is however gas in oil again. Removed carb and checked seat closely and could see no problem. Attached a fuel line to carb and blew through carb with float down then moved float up and could not make air pass no matter how hard I blew. Gonna guess needle is seating just fine. Put it back together and problem still there. Pinched off the line and ran it long enough to ck stat as suggested and it is not stuck. Checked oil and it is over full and smells of gas again.

 

[imported_cookie_monster]

Either the engine oil is not getting hot enough (thermostat is common, however yours isn't stuck), gets used on frequent short trips maybe? Is it possible that it's running on only one cylinder? Is it possible that it may have a weak cylinder?

 

[littlehammer]

Hey ABC2,
Were you able to get your mule going again? If so, what was the problem? I have a 2005 model that is doing the same thing.
Thanks

 

[littlehammer]

I found out what the problem was. The mule needed another carburetor and now she runs perfect. Seems as though you can't let these sit for long without some sort of fuel additive. Otherwise, these are great machines.

 

[Scooter911]

2006 gas mule 3010 was left setting for 3 months, and was used dailly to that point. It started up but ran rough with smoke. Flooding

pulled carb and put in kit and cleaned with carb cleaner. same problem

pulled and cleaned carb again. same problem. I can remove fuel supply line while running and runs fine for few seconds then dies. reattach fuel line and restart and pinch off fuel line with thumb and finger and runs fine when sweet pinch is found. I can pinch line to the point of starving out and engine dies.

bought new float with another new needle and relay based on advice of local guy. removed and cleaned carb again and added new float and new neddle. replaced relay with new one and new head gasket. same problem.

Also I have pulled plugs after running it for a few and they are black and damp but not fouled. replaced and engine ran fine with fuel line pinch.

my skill level is low and i am tapped out any help would be appreciated.

I had the same problem rebuilt engine and carb went to start and it flooded right away, beating my head against the wall and finally the light came on THE AIR FILTER WAS COMPLETELY SOAKED WITH OIL. New filter hit the key and vroom back in business