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Video worked fine. ATV's are not really my area of expertise. The guy who can probably really help is a member called cookiemonster. He drops by maybe once a week or so.

The float valve seat is essential to stopping the flow of fuel into the float bowl. Drilling it out like that makes no sense at all as it destroys the sealing surface. Possibly the former owner thought he could "clean up" a damaged seat surface with a drill bit and accidentally drilled all the way through. In any event, you have replaced the seat so that is no longer a concern as long as the valve now operates correctly. Have you tried to test float height with a clear tube on the outside of the carb? The tube, if attached to the float bowl drain will given you the exact real level of fuel inside the carb.

Does your ATV have a "Limp Home Mode"? Perhaps that is the cause of your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The timing was a tooth off and timing chain tensioner was too tight.......running great now!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Video worked fine. ATV's are not really my area of expertise. The guy who can probably really help is a member called cookiemonster. He drops by maybe once a week or so.

The float valve seat is essential to stopping the flow of fuel into the float bowl. Drilling it out like that makes no sense at all as it destroys the sealing surface. Possibly the former owner thought he could "clean up" a damaged seat surface with a drill bit and accidentally drilled all the way through. In any event, you have replaced the seat so that is no longer a concern as long as the valve now operates correctly. Have you tried to test float height with a clear tube on the outside of the carb? The tube, if attached to the float bowl drain will given you the exact real level of fuel inside the carb.

Does your ATV have a "Limp Home Mode"? Perhaps that is the cause of your problem.
Nah, it doesn't have that. I was going to try the clear tube thing but now its right! Will probably lean out the fuel screw maybe a half turn at most but it should be ready to send back to owner now. The timing chain I think is stretched but still has 1/4" adjustment on tensioner so should be good enough. Thanks for your help.
 

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WFO-KZ , let me know if u were able to see the video and if you have heard one do like this.....any suggestions, etc. Thanks for all u have commented on.
WFO-KZ , let me know if u were able to see the video and if you have heard one do like this.....any suggestions, etc. Thanks for all u have commented on.
Don't laugh at me, but check the igniter. I recently had a very similar issue & about pulled what little hair I have left out. I chased carb issues for several weeks. They should have had zippers on them. I then decided it had to be something else. Long story short, the igniter was bad. Changed it out with a used one from e-bay & it runs like a top. Bet nobody has any cleaner carbs than I do. HA!!
 

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Dgmenace73 did solve the problem. He found his valve timing was off my one tooth but its good to know that an igniter can cause similar problems. I suppose if the electronic spark advance circuit in the igniter was shot, then it would run badly at higher RPM's. I had never considered that. Thanks for the input Kawasaki Nut.
 
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