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Discussion Starter #1
Hi to all and Happy New Year also a big thanks, I've found allot of great and very useful info here. I was plowing the other day with my 2510 Mule and heard a pop from the left rear, on inspection I had found the left rear outer axle snapped. I'm not a mechanic by no means, but know how to use my tools and have fixed allot on this machine and others from reading the posts. A little about myself, I'm a T-10 Para but try and do what I can. I read the book and preceeded to disasemble the rear section, manual says, tires, hubs, brakes and drop the leaf springs, I did all that with the help of a neighbor, but when trying to re-install the new outer axle, I'm totally stumped? How to I get both of them to go back in, is there some kind of a trick to it? Any info with this would sure be appreciated, as this mule is my legs in the winter months and rest of the seasons for that matter too :biggrin:
 

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From what I read I suspect you are having trouble getting both the rear axles installed in the rear suspension bracket (the tube that connects both brake assemblies together and to the springs) after both the axles (rear drive shafts in Kaw terms) were fully reassembled and connected to the inner shaft and trunnion assemblies.

The rear suspension bracket has two sets of bearings on each side, along with two sets of spacers. That keeps you from being able to just shift the bracket to one side then the other to reinsert the outer axles.

The best bet is to remove the trunnions (universal joints) in each outside axle assembly, install the stub with the threads for the outside brake and hub assembly into the rear suspension bracket on each side. When that is done, put the carrier back in place and reinstall the trunnions to connect the inner and outer sections of the outer drive shaft on each side. Depending on how much room you have to work, you can also just remove the trunnion from one side and snake the other axle assembly through the bearings by sliding the bracket to one side and maneuvering the assembly back into the unit, then slide it back to the other side as far as it will compress the assembled axle and insert the outside stub with the threads into the remaining side, then center and put the trunnion together.

It is optional to install and bolt on the complete hub and brake assemblies before reassembling the carrier, some do and some do not. I generally do, but it requires a motorcycle frame jack to get it back in place with all that weight. So, you can just leave the stubs sticking through the bearings with the threaded ends outside, and then lift the carrier back and then install the trunnions to connect both sides of the outside drive shaft together.

If I have missed the issue, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes thats exactly what I'm trying to do, I had thought about removing the spiders (universal joints) from the outer axles like you suggested, figuring it would make it allot easier, but I couldn't figure out how to get them back together once the axles were in and the castle nuts were on, doesn't appear to be enough room in that little space to press the caps back in or to get the locking rings back on, or are you saying the spiders (universal joints) for the inner axles should be removed as those are exposed allot more for room? I thought about them too, but wasn't sure how I'd press those caps back in once all rear parts were installed back together. Thank you for the info, this place rocks :)
 

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I think I may have figured out what needs to be done, the manual didn't exactly explain what section of the leaf springs to drop, I removed it from the axle section and now have just the tube with the outer axles that seems to be able to move allot more freely so maybe when my neighbor gets here in a bit together we can coax it into place, It's a little too hard for me to do it myself from the wheelchair. I'll let ya know later how it turns out and thank you very much for the reply :)
 

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I just did a friend's this morning, fully removed the tube from the springs then folded the axles clear into the splines and worked one way then another, and tucked the outer ends in and then lifted the tube back up and reconnected the springs and installed the outer hubs, etc. It was not easy, and I had to pull the outside bearing on the last side to get enough slop to get that outside axle to feed through, but it did and was a snap to push the spacer bearing, and last spacer back in.

Took me about an hour and a half with the rear of the Kaw jacked up about 3' and the axle tube on a motorcycle frame jack. You have to walk that tube around pretty freely to get everything to clear, even with the springs fully disconnected (removed and laying on the floor next to the Kaw).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep thats almost what I had to do, wound up my neighbor didn't show up, so with a bunch a jack stands and floor jacks, I got the leaf springs completely removed and was able to move the tube with the jacks and stands a little at a time till I finally got both axles in, than it was just reversing everything and a little at a time, doing all this from my chair was a little tricky but pretty much got the whole thing done, stopping for tonight, I'll torque everthing up tomorrow, put the hubs n wheels back on tomorrow, but for the most part it's done and that's what counts. I'm ready once again for old man winter :)) I thank everyone for their help and glad theres a place lke this to come too :)
 

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Enjoy your Mule, they are pretty indispensable once you start relying on them!

If you have one of those Chinese tool places handy, Harbor Freight Tools, they sell a very inexpensive motorcycle frame lift that works wonders in a situation like this. Watch for their sales, I picked one up from them for under $50.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow, great I have a Harbor Freight right in Scranton I'll be taking a ride soon to go get one, it wouls sure have come in handy these last few days and tahnks once again for all the info and help :)
 

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rear axle removal

not an easy task, you absolutely need two strong helpers. Watch out sharp edges ready to hurt you everywhere. I had to take out the springs, and one driveshaft from the differential. With a correct twist of the axel carrier, you can get it in, but next time I'll be bumping up the labor charge significantly. Not a job I look forward to ever doing agin.
 

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point the tow bar down to the ground to disasemble and assemble ...... make shure the universil yocks are lined up the same ......make shure the first wheel axel is ALL THE WAY IN cheers trou ps u dont have to disconnect the break lines just lay the backing plate on a box ... nothing worse than bleeding breaks ..
 
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