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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any special problems with replacing the front struts? Is it necesary to press out the bottom of strut from the front knucle or is mine just frozen and needs to be hammered out. I broke my strut at the naturally best time!? Any help would be appreciated. Best price for new strut? Should I replace both? Thanks
 

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There is a 20 dollar screw on ball joint press made by Hydrodynamics that makes popping the lower joint a snap. It is available from powersportspro.com. As far as replacement strut prices go, the best bet is to shop around and look for a promotion from one of the aftermarket suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got the strut replaced but now I have a wobble in the wheel, It appears to be the CV? joint or the joint next to the tranfer case? Any suggestions?
 

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The way the front suspension is built you have both front driveshafts with the CV joints and then at the bottom of the struts there is a wheel bearing pack on each side.

The CV joints will generally make noise and crunching sounds as you turn them over if they are bad. The front wheel bearings wear out and will cause the driveshaft(s) and the wheel(s) to wobble.

The best diagnostic is to block the Mule, lift the wobbly side and put it on a jack stand. Then grasp the wheel and attempt to rock it sideways from top to bottom - you are looking for play in the bearing assembly where the hub attaches to the half-shaft (front drive shaft). If it moves then you will know the wheel bearing assembly needs replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replacing steering mechanism on 2510 Mule

The bearings are good and now I think it is my steering assembly/rack. It appears to come in one piece (a very expensive piece, 5-700 dollars!) Any suggestions on finding it cheaper? How big a job is it to replace, what's involved, and how is the best procedure for accomplishing this? This forum has been very helpful so far, I wish I was a better mechanic, a one hour job takes me 2-3!! Thanks for any help provided. CC Curl
 

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If it is the rack it will slop around if you jack up both front wheels so they are suspended and free to turn, then grasp one, then the other, and try and move the wheel assembly from the ground in a left to right arc, back and forth, just as if it were being turned by the steering wheel. Watch the tie rods at both the wheel end and at the inside boots where they go into the rack assembly. Many times you can just grab the tie rod and wiggle it around and determine the source of the problem.

Most often the tie rod ends fail, or one of the bolts on where the outer end connects to the wheel assembly works loose. They are easy to replace and I always use John Deere spray on graphite paint to lube up my new ones instead of grease. I respray them a couple of times a year. I buy my joints themselves from aftermarket sources.

If the rack fails you likely will see the steering wheel jump in and out just ever so slightly as you try to swing the wheels back and forth, or the rack will flop up and down in the housing just inside where the inside tie rod attaches one or both sides. You almost always have to pull the tie rod boots off the rack to see that end move.

The repair manual provides the best instructions for the novice to pop the rack out.

If the rack is shot beyond just cleaning and greasing, try to locate a steering rack rebuilder. The cost to rebuild one is about 20-50% of the price of a new one. The rebuilders generally install a grease zerk, and that allows you to lubricate it and keep it working like new pretty much forever after than.
 
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