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My 2005 3010 Mule Trans 4x4 (gas) wouldn't start today. Has been hard to start since bought used several months ago, full choke had almost no effect, but finally cranked after 30-45 seconds of cranking. Once started, it seemed to run fine. Now, it won't start at all. Pulled fuel line between filter and fuel pump, fuel flowed from tank. Pulled fuel line at carb, but no fuel when cranking. Measured voltage across wire harness fuel pump leads (pump disconnected) when cranking, only saw 2-3 volts. To me this sounds like the fuel pump relay could be bad, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here about fuel problems. Only thing is, I don't have a clue where that relay might be, how to test it, and I don't have a service manual. So I kept checking...

Jumpered 12v from battery to pump, pump clicked only once each time battery was connected to it, pumped maybe a tablespoon of fuel each time. So this sounds like a bad fuel pump.

Any help would be appreciated. At $150 for a pump, and $75 for a relay, I don't want to diagnose by part swapping. I've seen some ads for downloadable service manuals, as well as warnings about them, so I'm reluctant to try them unless someone can recommend a reliable one. I'd spring for the factory paper manual, but that's several days away waiting for the dealer to order it, then several more days to wait for whatever parts I'd need, and I'd like to get this going again soon as possible.

So, quick recap:
- less than 3 volts at fuel pump when cranking - bad fuel relay? Where is it, how to check?
- pump won't run w/12v connected, just clicks once - bad pump?
- likelyhood both parts went bad at the same time? Could they "soft" fail, making for hard starting even with choke?
- source for downloadable service manual?

Thanks for any help.
 

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Less than three volts to the starter when cranking would lead me to suspect a bad ground on the negative battery cable as a starting point. If that is good, then it is likely the relay or the igniter. Lift the seat out and follow the wiring harness, you will find the relay. Take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com to get an idea of what you are looking for.

These use a power lead from the igniter to the coil to power the pump relay. It is a safety thing so the pump shuts off when the ignition is killed. If the igniter does not generate enough power the relay will not trip, or if the pump shorts it burns out the relay too.

If the pump will not freely pump when directly connected to 12 volts DC, then it is likely defective. A generic pulse type pump from an auto parts store works great and usually costs less than ten bucks. But, if you do that you need to wire in a new fuel pump switch and get the load off the coil lug. Most farmers toss the OEM ignition switch and replace it with a heavy duty type with a hot lug when the key is on to power the fuel pump and eliminate the cut solenoid. But, that is something that may present a safety hazard if you do not know what you are doing and properly fuse everything.

If you download a manual get it from a trusted source that is published as in the business. There are some that post on Ebay that are good. Frankly, I prefer the aftermarket manuals as they are more complete and do not require the owner to purchase two manuals to get everything that is required. Also, the Kawasaki manual assumes the user has had Kawasaki training so cuts to "remove the part," without always telling you how to remove the part.
 

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I have kawasaki Mule transport. Ran fine till yesterday. Cranks right up but after few seconds its like its getting no fuel and the choke will make it run just a little longer but finally quits.. Also fuel is coming out of the overflow hose when its trying to run. New fuel pump and filter. Any help would be good.
 

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hi i have a Kawasaki mule model KQAF620J year 2007 and my mule has an idle issue were it will run fine then idle up this was ok when i bought it now when i start it it goes strait up i press on accelerator and no change i choke it goes down then i let go and it goes up again and i have to put it in gear as soon as it starts to drive it and i have to turn it off to stop it and sometimes it will do a light puff and take off can someone tell me whats going on and how to fix it?

any help would be appreciated.
 

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Ours 2004 does that - so you could try what I did - might be the same issue - idle moves up or when you start the Mule it immediately revs - found it was a lever which goes under the black plate on the top of the motor assembly with a spring on it - sort of from the cable from the choke knob - seems to have a bit of friction between level and plate that the spring would not overcome - just cleaned the gap of crud and sprayed in some Inox spray - lubes it and it moves freely and the problem goes away.
 

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Less than three volts to the starter when cranking would lead me to suspect a bad ground on the negative battery cable as a starting point. If that is good, then it is likely the relay or the igniter. Lift the seat out and follow the wiring harness, you will find the relay. Take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com to get an idea of what you are looking for.

These use a power lead from the igniter to the coil to power the pump relay. It is a safety thing so the pump shuts off when the ignition is killed. If the igniter does not generate enough power the relay will not trip, or if the pump shorts it burns out the relay too.

If the pump will not freely pump when directly connected to 12 volts DC, then it is likely defective. A generic pulse type pump from an auto parts store works great and usually costs less than ten bucks. But, if you do that you need to wire in a new fuel pump switch and get the load off the coil lug. Most farmers toss the OEM ignition switch and replace it with a heavy duty type with a hot lug when the key is on to power the fuel pump and eliminate the cut solenoid. But, that is something that may present a safety hazard if you do not know what you are doing and properly fuse everything.

If you download a manual get it from a trusted source that is published as in the business. There are some that post on Ebay that are good. Frankly, I prefer the aftermarket manuals as they are more complete and do not require the owner to purchase two manuals to get everything that is required. Also, the Kawasaki manual assumes the user has had Kawasaki training so cuts to "remove the part," without always telling you how to remove the part.
I am dealing with similar problems. I put an aftermarket fuel pump on and ran a new circuit for it and it doesn’t make a difference. I’m getting fire to both plugs. In neutral it will rev all the way up. When I drive it it has little power. Any incline will slow it down tremendously. I’ve been at this thing for 12 days now. I need help bad lol
 
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