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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I aquired my 78 KZ 650 it had Dyna coils arleady on it. (3.0 om - Green) The left coil was feeding the 1 and 4 cylinders and the right was feeding the 2-3 cylinders. It seemed to run ok like this and I assumed the PO had wired them properly but attached them to the wrong side of the bike frame, since my Clymer manual states that the stock right coil fed the 1-4 cylinder and the left fed the 2-3. In other words, the placement was switched, unless this is how they should be on Dyna coils. So that is my first question, is this placement correct on these coils?

The problem I have now began after I had reshimmed my valves to spec and put the bike back together. The bike ran pooly like it was only running on two cylinders and would only run with the choke all the way open and would cut out and die if I tried to accelerate beyond half throttle. I know the timing was correct and the carbs are clean since I recently rebuilt them. I had put new plugs in and after I took them out to do a compression test (which all cylinders tested within spec) I noticed that the 1-4 plugs had no carbon deposits and had not been firing. Only the 2-3 plugs looked like they had fired.

So my suspicion is that the coil that is feeding the 1-4 cylinder has gone bad, or it is wired up wrong. I don't have an Ohmmeter, but have a feeling I'm going to have to get one.

Any suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Mike
 

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According to this schematic:--

~ No 1 Coil is feeding 1&4
~ No 2 Coil is feeding 2&3

As the pic clearly shows an arrow denoting the front of the bike..

~ Have you got spark on all plugs ?

 

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The placement of the coils (left or right) doesn´t really matter, what matters is the wiring to the points (or pickup coils if you have electronic ignition). Looking at the timing plate the left set of points (or pickup) triggers your 1/4 coil, the right set of points (or pickup) triggers the 2/3 coil. If you switch the points (pickup) wires around the bike will not run at all as it will be firing when the pistons aren´t on the compression stroke.

If 1/4 isn´t firing (and you´re certain you have fuel and compression and 12V going to both coils) you most likely have misadjusted points or a dead condenser (or a bad pickup coil if you have electronic ignition).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just tested for spark from all plugs (why didn't I think of it earlier??) and absolutely nothing from 1/4 plugs. So am I right in assuming it's the coil that's gone bad. I have electronic ignition, but if this had gone bad, then I think neither coil would work.

This is all strange because when I did my work on reshimming the valves, the battery was disconnected and I never disconnected the coils, I just took them off the frame and moved them to the side.
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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First of all, if you are going to troubleshoot electrical problems, a multimeter is a must. You can get an inexpensive one at wally world or many other places. My first guess is you have a broken or lose wire/connector for the +12 volts to the 1/4 coil since you were working in that area and moved the coils. Of course you will need the meter to test this.
 

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I´m with Stargate, you probably aren´t getting 12V to the 1/4 coil or the connection to the pickup coil is broken/loose. The +12V is the yellow/red wire on each coil, they´re split at a double plug under the rear of the tank. Check if the yellow/red on the 1/4 coil is connected properly to the coil, then check if it´s connected properly at the double plug. As Stargate says, further testing will require a multimeter.

Btw, do you have a DynaS or did you transplant a KZ electronic ignition?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice guys. onkelb, I've got a DynaS and I know which wire your talking about. I did check it's connection at the coil, but I didn't go any farther back than that. I will do that and also pick up a multimeter and test.

I'll let you know how I make out.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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Any suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Mike
Run it with a timing light and veriofy no spark on those two. Turn it off, then turn the key on and check for 12V on the + terminal of the suspect coil. If the 12V is there, the coil probably is bad. To be sure, check whatever switch or sensor hangs on the "-" side of the bad coil. If the coil has 12V on it and the neg side is being properly switched (and you get no spark) the coil has to be bad.
 

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Another Quick Check

would be to swap the coils to see if the problem goes along with the suspect coil. If it does then you can be relatively sure the coil is bad. If it does not then the problem lies elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I tested both coils and I'm getting juice to both on each positive and negative terminals.

Since I have a Dyna S electronic ignition, could it be the black box? How would I test it? Not sure where else to look.
 
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