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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had my bike shut down on me while riding, lost throttle and when I came to a stop there was no power at all. One of ther spark plug wires was broken, but the local Kawasaki shop told me that wouldn't cause it to shut down. I have nothing when I turn the ignition to the "on" position, no lights or juice just dead as a doornail. Got it home and started to look at it, the battery is fine and I can't seem to find any frayed or shorted wires. When I jump the solenoid with a screwdriver it will turn over. Pulled the back off the ignition panel, where the key goes in, and can't find anything amiss. I'm at a loss. Anybody have any ideas out there? TIA for any help.

Bike is bone stock btw.
 

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Chris91LX said:
1. Had my bike shut down on me while riding, lost throttle and when I came to a stop there was no power at all.

2. One of ther spark plug wires was broken, but the local Kawasaki shop told me that wouldn't cause it to shut down.

3. I have nothing when I turn the ignition to the "on" position, no lights or juice just dead as a doornail. Got it home and started to look at it,

4. the battery is fine and I can't seem to find any frayed or shorted wires.

5. When I jump the solenoid with a screwdriver it will turn over. Pulled the back off the ignition panel, where the key goes in, and can't find anything amiss. I'm at a loss. Anybody have any ideas out there? TIA for any help.

Bike is bone stock btw.
1. sounds like your battery is done.

2. they are right. spark plug would cause rough/sluggish running but not shut the bike down.

3. sounds like your battery is done.

4. how do you KNOW the batter is fine ? did you check voltage with the key OFF and then with the key ON ? do you have battery voltage on the battery side of the solenoid with key on ? do you have voltage to the starter side of the solenoid with the starter button pressed ?

5. it turns over but it doesnt start ?

put a set of jumper cables on it from your car (not running) and see if it will start. let me know what it does after you try this :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply.

Jumper cables did nothing. No head light, no idiot lights in the dash. When I went to pull the battery out I got some pretty big sparks when the extension hit the frame loosening the + bolt, so I know there's juice in the battery. Tried to jump it off my truck, nothing. Tried to kick start it, nothing. When I put the screwdriver between the solenoid posts it cranked. It can't run because the tank is off from looking for a short and/or frayed wire. Trying to jump it didn't work. I haven't checked the voltage, I'm not too handy with a voltmeter.
 

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Checking the voltage will be easy. Just check the voltage across the battery while the bike is off. A new battery will have about 12.6 volts. If it's down to about 12.3 or so, it's getting pretty weak. But the real test is what happens when you hit the start button. If the battery is weak, the voltage will drop dramatically. That's all there is to it. If your voltage drops down to like 9V or less, you can bet that the battery is toast.

I don't think that the battery is your problem, but it's worth it to check anyway, since it's so easy to check and so cheap and easy to replace if it is the problem.

What about a blown fuse or fusible link (I don't know if the bike may have one)? You could turn on the key, then check power at the fuses. If you're not getting 12V at the fuses, then there are very few possible reasons why. That should be easy to track down. You might also check the ignition switch (the key switch). They fail sometimes.

Those are the first things that come to my mind.
Curt
 

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Chris91LX said:
Thanks for the reply.

Jumper cables did nothing. No head light, no idiot lights in the dash. When I went to pull the battery out I got some pretty big sparks when the extension hit the frame loosening the + bolt, so I know there's juice in the battery. Tried to jump it off my truck, nothing. Tried to kick start it, nothing. When I put the screwdriver between the solenoid posts it cranked. It can't run because the tank is off from looking for a short and/or frayed wire. Trying to jump it didn't work. I haven't checked the voltage, I'm not too handy with a voltmeter.
have you checked ALL your fuses ? i cant really help ya much without the stuff in front of me. kinda sounds like it could ba a bad starter solenoid but there are other things that throw that diag off.
there are too many things i would tell you to check but it sounds like you wouldnt know how to do most of them.
check all the fuses and report back. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've found 3 fuses, they are in a box by the ignition module and solenoid. The fuses look fine, but I'll probably replace them JIC. I haven't found any fusible links and all the wires appear to have good connections and there are no frayed or broken wires anywhere I've looked. I've pulled the seat and tank off for maximum visibility and traced most of the wiring from the front to the back, but still haven't seen anything.

I'll check the voltage on the battery and probably charge the battery up just to be sure.

Is there a way to check the solenoid and the ignition switch?

Thaks again for the replies guys, I'm losing some good riding weather here.
 

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you can check all your switches pretty easy. i dont have the wire colors so i can tell ya exaclty which one is which. look in the manual it will tell you.
basically you unplug the the switches and test the resistance thru them. starter button - OFL NOT PUSHING IT and between .2-.8ohms PUSHING IT
key switch- off OFL, on -# ohms

etc.

there should be a main fuse in the starter relay, check that too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It was the main fuse. It's in the little fuse box, 2 10 amps and the 20 amp main fuse. It didn't look blown on visual inspection, but once I replaced it I was back in business.

Course, then I was out riding it and the float stuck on #2 carb and I was spitting gas all over my engine. :roll: Makes for an exciting couple minutes. :shock:

Thaks for all the help guys!
 

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Chris91LX said:
The fuses look fine, but I'll probably replace them JIC.
Well if they look good, there is a 99% chance that they are good. You could check them with a meter just to make it 99.99%.

Chris91LX said:
It was the main fuse. It's in the little fuse box, 2 10 amps and the 20 amp main fuse. It didn't look blown on visual inspection, but once I replaced it I was back in business.
Well, I guess you're one of those "one-percenters."

For future reference, we really need to introduce you to a multimeter.
Curt
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Multi-meter shmultemeter, let's just hope I don't have any more electrical worries. :D

The bike is definitely alot easier to work on than my Mustang, that's for sure. :p
 
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