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OK, let me see if you guys can give me a hand, here.

Have been messing with jetting on my 800a since I did the Okie Air Sys mod; been fighting issues when at low (less than 1/8 {guess} ) throttle i.e. just idling along @ 35 on local streets. When on an open road and under any kinda reasonable throttle, runs like a champ, but at low speed spits, misses, etc. (note: okie & russian wolf have great info on how to do this; I attribute all issues to my inexperience and ham-handedness).

So, once more pulled everything off Sunday, tweaked idle/air to about 2.75 turns out. Also, I know it's been running rich, so went ahead and replaced the plugs.

After all back together, idled/revved well, took it out for a quick test ride. For the first mile, it ran BEAUTIFULLY! better than it ever has; smooth throttle response, no spitting, plenty of power. wonderful.

then it quit. stalled/stopped. I've had that happen before as playing with jetting/settings, but this time would not start back up. ended up having my buddy bring his trailer and hauled it home.

today, when got home from work, tried it and it cranked right up, ran great (idling mostly in garage)...for a minute or so then....died. wouldn't restart. cranks, but nothing unless I crank the throttle to about 1/2 WOT to start it, and quits as soon as release throttle.

waited 30 minutess, same story.

I've checked lines, vents, plugs, vaccum, the idle jet (of course)... I dunno. Any suggestions much appreciated; weather is gorgeous for the first time this year, and I'm facing a second day driving my old truck to work. I used to DREAM about weather like this when I was bundled up and riding to work in 30 degree weather...
 

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OK, let me see if you guys can give me a hand, here.

Have been messing with jetting on my 800a since I did the Okie Air Sys mod; been fighting issues when at low (less than 1/8 {guess} ) throttle i.e. just idling along @ 35 on local streets. When on an open road and under any kinda reasonable throttle, runs like a champ, but at low speed spits, misses, etc. (note: okie & russian wolf have great info on how to do this; I attribute all issues to my inexperience and ham-handedness).

So, once more pulled everything off Sunday, tweaked idle/air to about 2.75 turns out. Also, I know it's been running rich, so went ahead and replaced the plugs.

After all back together, idled/revved well, took it out for a quick test ride. For the first mile, it ran BEAUTIFULLY! better than it ever has; smooth throttle response, no spitting, plenty of power. wonderful.

then it quit. stalled/stopped. I've had that happen before as playing with jetting/settings, but this time would not start back up. ended up having my buddy bring his trailer and hauled it home.

today, when got home from work, tried it and it cranked right up, ran great (idling mostly in garage)...for a minute or so then....died. wouldn't restart. cranks, but nothing unless I crank the throttle to about 1/2 WOT to start it, and quits as soon as release throttle.

waited 30 minutess, same story.

I've checked lines, vents, plugs, vaccum, the idle jet (of course)... I dunno. Any suggestions much appreciated; weather is gorgeous for the first time this year, and I'm facing a second day driving my old truck to work. I used to DREAM about weather like this when I was bundled up and riding to work in 30 degree weather...
Have you checked to make sure your floats aren't sticking or are otherwise not working properly? Also, when it quits, pop the tank cap and see if it's drawn a vacuum. 'Cause it could be your tank vent line got crimped or pinched while you were working on the carb.

That's about all I can think of at the moment.
 

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First off take the intake off and see if you can get the bike to fire up. If you can then look in the carb while it's running and see if the slide is moving up and down. let us know if it is. Like Jamie mentioned about the float sticking ,that could be whats making the carb load up on fuel(flooding ) When you did the rejet did you bang the float around any ? The float is pretty senisitive and can end up out of spect if you haappen to knock it around while rejetting.
 

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Father Guidosarducci
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If it is not a vaccum issue or the float the my guess since it is runnig rich to adjust the fuel/air mixture screw most jet kits tell exactly how much to turn the screw. Make sure nothing is pinched, best attempt of elimination fuel/air screw, vaccum, pinched line(s). Make sure you check your plugs so you don't run into oh **** it is too lean.
 

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First off take the intake off and see if you can get the bike to fire up. If you can then look in the carb while it's running and see if the slide is moving up and down. let us know if it is. Like Jamie mentioned about the float sticking ,that could be whats making the carb load up on fuel(flooding ) When you did the rejet did you bang the float around any ? The float is pretty senisitive and can end up out of spect if you haappen to knock it around while rejetting.
And if for some reason the float is stuck in the "up" position, it's not letting any ( or very little ) fuel into the bowls. ( That means your engine will run 'til it burns up whatever's in the bowl, then stops until enough has leaked around the needle and given it something else to burn. ) Had several old cars that would do that now and then, many years ago. An old '77 Pinto was the worst about it.

If it doesn't prove to be tank vacuum, take the carb back apart and make sure the float moves smoothly through it's range. 'Cause if you've gotten any crud or debris in with the needle, it can bind and stick.
 

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One more question . When you adjusted the A/F mixture screw ,did you at anytime remove the screw ,the reason I'm asking is because theres a small spring under the screw and you might have deformed it when you bottomed out the screw before backing it out. and if you did remove the screw maybe you possibly lost the spring , it happened before (a few years back)to a member and it took forever to find that problem. What do you guys think ? did we give him enough to look at and inspect to keep him busy for the night?:mrgreen:
 

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most jet kits tell exactly how much to turn the screw.
As a starting point. Different altitudes would require a bit of tweaking either fatter or leaner to be right.
I also agree with earlier post about float being stuck partially in up position. it will run about a mile on a full bowl of fuel.As a test, try running it on "prime" to eliminate the possibility of the vacuum diaphragm not being operated.
 

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Father Guidosarducci
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Well being Georgia, I doubt he has any altitude issues and go buy some carb clearner $4 so when you check the float you can clean around the area. They sell stuff for small engines. But it is very easy to bend the float, I know from my cage carb rebuilding experience which is not to much different from bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And if for some reason the float is stuck in the "up" position, it's not letting any ( or very little ) fuel into the bowls. ( That means your engine will run 'til it burns up whatever's in the bowl, then stops until enough has leaked around the needle and given it something else to burn. ) Had several old cars that would do that now and then, many years ago. An old '77 Pinto was the worst about it.

If it doesn't prove to be tank vacuum, take the carb back apart and make sure the float moves smoothly through it's range. 'Cause if you've gotten any crud or debris in with the needle, it can bind and stick.
THAT sounds like it's describing exactly what I'm experiencing. Thanks, all, guys - that's enough to keep me busy for the evening. I didn't mess with the floats at all - intentionally, at any rate, but it's the first time in a LONG time I've been inside a carburetor...

Had already checked tack vaccum (opened gas cap) and also blew out the 2 tank vent lines - they were clear.

thanks all. let you know what I find. If anybody thinks of something not already mentioned, lemme have it. =)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Allright, this forum came through for me yet again.

Float was sticking; starving the engine. I wanted to pull it & clean it but could not figure out how to get that pin out and didn't want to break it, so cleaned in place and made sure was moving freely. Ran good on way in to work this morning.

2 fast followups for any of you:
1) any suggestions on getting that pin out to pull the float valve & needle assembly?
2) any good sources for a float kit to replace? or just order OEM thru dealer?

thanks! Ride safe!
 

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Father Guidosarducci
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Allright, this forum came through for me yet again.

Float was sticking; starving the engine. I wanted to pull it & clean it but could not figure out how to get that pin out and didn't want to break it, so cleaned in place and made sure was moving freely. Ran good on way in to work this morning.

2 fast followups for any of you:
1) any suggestions on getting that pin out to pull the float valve & needle assembly?
2) any good sources for a float kit to replace? or just order OEM thru dealer?

thanks! Ride safe!
Well with out looking at the carb then my guess is there should be a roll pin or a cotter pin and possibly a c clip type retainer. But looking at the parts diagram it doesn't show any clip. So I would get some seafoam and do a strong dose that should loosen everything up.

I've got a big mess to deal with on my father's 81 Goldwing, bad fuel and yesterday I was going to ride it to work until the motor vapor locked. I pulled cylinder 1 + 2 spark plugs and they both were filled with gas I almost crapped my pants.
 

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Allright, this forum came through for me yet again.

Float was sticking; starving the engine. I wanted to pull it & clean it but could not figure out how to get that pin out and didn't want to break it, so cleaned in place and made sure was moving freely. Ran good on way in to work this morning.

2 fast followups for any of you:
1) any suggestions on getting that pin out to pull the float valve & needle assembly?
2) any good sources for a float kit to replace? or just order OEM thru dealer?

thanks! Ride safe!
Glad you got it running.

As for pulling the float... hmm... Haven't had the carb off my bike in months now, and honestly don't remember how the float's attached. It could be any of the ways Guido mentioned, or it could just be a solid brass or steel pin that just pushed into place and kept from falling out by the sides of the carb housing. These will push out with very little effort. A piece of wire or something of the like will generally do it without needing a hammer.

Or, since it's a plastic float, it may have two short pins/nubs molded into the legs it pivots on that just more or less snap into place in the carb body. ( Seems unlikely but possible. ) If that's the case, simply carefully prying the pivot legs away from the anchor point should free the float assy.

Sorry, but I don't have any good ideas on where to find a float kit, other than to just shop around on the 'net and see what you come up with.

I gotta ask though... if you've got the bike running properly now, why mess with it any further? Don't you know you aren't supposed to fix it anymore if it ain't still broke? :lol:
 

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The pin is not pressed or clipped. If it is stuck tight it is because of varnish from the gasoline. Once you get it out clean it real good with whatever solvent you have, lacquer thinner or even rubbing alcohol will do. When you reinstall it should be relatively loose. It is captured when the fuel bowl is replaced by ribs on the side of the bowl.
 

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...It is captured when the fuel bowl is replaced by ribs on the side of the bowl.
Yes, this is what I meant when I said "kept from falling out by the sides of the carb housing" in my previous post. Bob just said it much more clearly than I did.

Sorry 'bout that. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I gotta ask though... if you've got the bike running properly now, why mess with it any further? Don't you know you aren't supposed to fix it anymore if it ain't still broke? :lol:
well...it's running much better, in the sense that now it stays running, but still not running well at low throttle. I've tried everything else I can think of, so might as well try this too.

Thanks for the help guys - I'll try gently pushing the pin out, when float kit gets in from dealer.
 

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I'm seriously doubting your float is causing your low throttle problem, Kennesaw, unless it's now sinking/too low and making the engine flood out.

Have you seen this, up in the "500/750/800/900cc " thread? It's on page 120, post #2386.

The chart outlines which part of the throttle position is controlled or influenced by which part or parts of the carb.
 

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I'd say you either got the jet adjustment wrong or the screw adjuster wrong. Did you use a jet kit after doing the air mod?

Also, could it be possible you got some bad gas? I'd run some gumout through the tank and some Seafoam through the vacuum lines.
 

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Something else that can cause a problem somewhat like your talking about is the choke cable where it screws into the carb. If it's loose and not getting a good fit it'll cause some hesitation and over all poor performance. you asked about other places to buy OEM parts other than the dealer so here's a couple of online parts dealers you could always use . They'll be cheaper than a local dealer, but they'll involve shipping cost ,which will probably equal what your sales tax is from your local dealer(depending on your location of course)

Motorcycle Parts, Motorcycle Accessories by BikeBandit.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports - Motorcycle, ATV, Jet Ski and Generators Parts and Accessories
 
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