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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, I would forget about carbs or ignition for now. Your number one problem is lack of compression. I don't have a manual for this bike but I would guess it should have 140-150 psi.

The first thing I would do before tearing it apart is to triple check the valve timing and the valve clearances. Valve timing being off by only one tooth can make a huge difference.
I'll try that If I get time tonight. If not it will be later this week. I had it apart once to replace the valve oil seals so it is absolutely possible it could be off time
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I check all four of the valve clearances, and the front two were a bit loose so I adjusted them to .18mm, which is within the value given by the manual.
Both sides are still giving about 90psi.
How would you guys test the valve timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I referenced the manual for valve timing, and they all seem to be in time, and my valve clearances are all within the range.
 

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Then it is time to take the head off and do a liquid leak test of your valves. Valve seats may be burnt or you might have bent valve stems.
 

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I am starting to think that your neighbour was wrong when he said all it needed was a starter motor.
Sometimes it is best to just walk away from it for a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I am starting to think that your neighbour was wrong when he said all it needed was a starter motor.
Sometimes it is best to just walk away from it for a few days.
I agree with that. Though he was right, it did need a starter, then that snowballed into this.

I took a good month off from working on it because of this problem, so I'm hoping to get it done, and ridable for this season.
 

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I hear you. All I am saying is that if you get frustrated or upset things will quickly go from bad to worse. At least that has been my experience. Taking a day off to regroup and relax can work wonders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I hear you. All I am saying is that if you get frustrated or upset things will quickly go from bad to worse. At least that has been my experience. Taking a day off to regroup and relax can work wonders.
I get that. I probably won't have time to look at the bike again till this weekend, sadly.
I remember before I took the head off to replace the valve oil seals I checked compression, and it was in the same range it was now. Which it was about the same when I first got the bike.
This is my first road bike I've worked on. So there has definitely been a learning process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So, I decided to put the plugs back into the bike after a good cleaning. And I believe I need to adjust the floats some more. But after adjusting the valve clearance, it is hit or miss whether it'll go over 2500rpms. When it does go over, it runs strong and will begin to bog slightly around the 5,000 rpm mark. And the right side exhaust is not near as strong as the left, and has some backfiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
An update on the bike. Since I didn't have to work today, I worked on the bike. I tore it down again, double checked my float levels, and put her back together. And she appeared to have a vacuum leak. I had it rideable, and it was running strong. I fixed the vacuum leak, and it went back to dogging out. The left overflow tube was draining slightly, and seemed to get worse throughout the day. Come to find out there was a small hair crack in the drain tube. I had a spare bowl laying around so I replaced it, but sadly it didn't seem to fix my problem. The bike will only start now, if I hold the throttle about a quarter way open, and if I release it, it'll die.
 

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You may have carb or ignition issues, but without compression it just won't run right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I tore the engine down tonight and got the head off. I am doing the liquid leak test. I'll post the results tomorrow morning, or tonight if I stay up long enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well guys, in the thirty minutes it took me to take my dogs on a walk, the valves, both sides, have failed. They are both loosing the liquid (which used gas) as a quick pace.
I made sure the spark plugs were tight, and they are not leaking from there.
 

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At least you know what the issue is. It sounds like you did the test by filling the combustion chamber. Hopefully you left the valve springs in place for testing. It may be a moot point, but you could try (with valve springs installed) tilting the head on edge and filling the intakes and watching for liquid to appear in the combustion chamber. Then flip it over and do the same test on the exhaust side.

It goes without saying to be super careful with gasoline. Some will use varsol or diesel as these are not as combustible.

Once you pull the valves you can inspect the seats and also check for bent stems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
At least you know what the issue is. It sounds like you did the test by filling the combustion chamber. Hopefully you left the valve springs in place for testing. It may be a moot point, but you could try (with valve springs installed) tilting the head on edge and filling the intakes and watching for liquid to appear in the combustion chamber. Then flip it over and do the same test on the exhaust side.

It goes without saying to be super careful with gasoline. Some will use varsol or diesel as these are not as combustible.

Once you pull the valves you can inspect the seats and also check for bent stems.
That's how I did it. I'll try that way tonight after work. And yes the springs were left in. I actually don't have a tool to take them out, I will have to buy/borrow one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Update
I got the head off and the valves are not bent. So I tried to lap the valves to the seat and it still leaked.
So tomorrow the head is going to a machine shop for some headwork.
 

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Good plan. Make sure the shop has experience with doing motorcycle valves.

Just curious if you asked your local Kawi dealer about them doing it. Most of them should have the special seat cutters and lapping tools as well as factory specs of what the seat should look like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Good plan. Make sure the shop has experience with doing motorcycle valves.

Just curious if you asked your local Kawi dealer about them doing it. Most of them should have the special seat cutters and lapping tools as well as factory specs of what the seat should look like.
So, since I live in the middle of bfe, our Kawasaki dealer is also a tractor dealer/machine shop. So that's where I'm taking it. Best of both worlds I guess?
 
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