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Hi There,

I have a 1981 Kz440 ltd and I am having a problem (maybe a few)

Sometimes when Its warming up it Skips a beat sounds like it doesnt first and has a chisch noise.

Also the bike does not like 3500 RPMs or greater. I have taken the carbs apart and they looked fine. (I saw nothing clogging the jets) So I put it back together and back into the bike and still having the issue.

Here is the kicker, I think the charging system is having problems too. I recharge the battery about every week (under back and forth driving to school and work). Sometimes its dead when I try to start it. Then I do the cool kid thing and staddle push start it and get it home and then curiocity gets me and i try to start it and BAM it starts right up. (leads me to think the charging system is fine(ish)

My real questions. How much can I *see* when taking the carb apart, Is it possible that there is very tiny parts clogging it. If so what is the solution, I have read from another thread that soaking the parts in carb cleaner helpped.

Also with the charging system What are other signs of it being at fault? Any advice or abuse would be great. Thanks (BTW Nice Forum)
 

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Hi,

I have the same bike as you do. I think the older kawasaki engines are very cold natured. Mine doesn't like to run well when first starting, but here's some tips.

turn the petcock onto PRI before you start it.......that helps

use your choke and try to get it to idle at 2,500rpms instead of chugging at 1500


AS far as cleaning that carb...take it off the bike drop the float bowls...and carefully unscrew the jets....(take the floats out first). Then take the jets and throw them in some carb cleaner for a little while. You may even stick a small piece of wire (that will fit through the holes) to clean the jets. This helped with mine

Here's a quesiton for you...Does you carb like to throw up gas out of the overflows when the engine is idleing? I'm having probs with that and i've taken that carb apart more times than i can remember.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply kevin.

to answer your question, no. Mine doesnt drip from the overflows I have read about that on this forums and others tho. I would say just check the screw that contols that. (i really dont know ****).

But back with my bike its not a slight problem, Its a terrible (makes me wanna sell the bike) problem. When I am driving, fully warmed up, It wont let me get passed the 3500 rpm mark it starts studdering and acts like it isnt getting fuel or only some fuel, or not getting enough spark. I am not sure. But I took my driving test 30 min away and had a 45 min drive back because i had to fight it all the way back. I must have had 20 people behinf me on a windy road. I would have pulled over and let them pass but I was afraid that it would have died on me.
 

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Sounds like you need a good carb cleaning...here's some simple steps:

First remove the clips holding carb...to the engine.

Next...unscrew your tank off...pull it back...and remove it ....from there....you can unscrew your air box...and kind of push it back...(it doesn't go back too far)

now wiggle the carb out of the front boots...and slide it to one side to get it out of the bike. U will now have to disconnect your throttle cable.

flip the carb upside down and try to get out the gas (it will leak everywhere). Unscrew those 4 screws holding on the float bowls.

From there you can gently remove the pins holding the floats in place. Set the floats aside and also the needles

From here you can see several brass fittings. These are the jets. simply and carefully unscrew them. There's also a long brass needle...remove that also

Place these parts in carb leaner for 30 mins or so...then take a fine wire and run it through the holes..this will knock out any blockage in them.

You can put the carb back together then...and slip it back on the bike.

If this doens't work...you may try new sparkplugs....and even check the spark plug wires.

Try these steps and see how that works. I've did this to mine and it helped a lot....between power and throttle response. Keep me posted :)

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think it has points. I have solved some of my problems. The petcock has 3 settings, PRI ON RES pri is for prime not primary like I was told. Once i changed that it cleaned up alot, it quit flooding the main jet. I am going to change the plugs just to check and see if that fixes the other problems.

Whats the thing to do to check the points?
 

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Mainly check that they are not burned up, shorting to the plate, or not moving freely on their pivots. Check that they are opening and closing as the cam in the middle rotates. Is the cam worn? Does the advancer spring properly? Gap is important but you'll have to call a dealer or something as I don't know the spec. If they're lightly pitted you can clean them up with an emery board (for fingernails) and it usually improves spark. The points plate or hall rotor is usually under a small round cover on the right (brake) side of the engine on a Kaw.
 

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exactly

I am having the same problems with mine, it revs way to high, and when i am driving it sounds like its either getting too much gas or not enough gas and it wont start unless the choke is all the way on. i changed the oil, spark plugs, air filter , battery, bulbs, pegs, seat, paintjob, tires, and i took the carbs off and cleaned them but i didnt take it apart from the bottom i did the top, i will tery the bottom thing with the floats and the jets in the morning. if anyone has any help much appreciated!
 

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oldcoldankles said:
I know this thread is almost 2 years old, but there is a lot of great info for the KZ400's and 440's on Ivar's website here:
http://www.kz400.com/
Thumbs up for Ivars kz400 site. Added to the kz parts source sticky as a source for kz400/440 info. Thanks for mentioning the site oldcoldankles
 

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well

thanks for all the help she is running smoooth, except for 1 little proble, i need a choke still on a little bit, or it wont idle it will stall.
 
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