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Discussion Starter #1
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/124050-1981-ltd-440-carb-issues.html

that is an old thread of mine. One cylinder is still not firing I think. What are possible cause?

Carbs have been clean 3 times, every thing looks good.
have the original model air filter and box but I have not changed it could be dirty.
New spark plugs with the right spacing.
I have spark when I took it out and touched the motor with the plug

HAVE NOT ADJUSTED THE VALVES I seen how to do it in the book but it does not make sense to me. .17mm~.22mm to get .17mm you would have to put 5 or so of the shims together. Or do I just use one that is between .017 and .022?

Ok here it the deal. I clean the carbs about 3 times and boiled them in lemon juice twice so I think I have got the carb 99% clean. And do not think that is the issue. The diapram are in good shape no tears or anything.

Tonight I put it back together adjusting the pilot screw 2.75 to 3 turns out which let the bike start. It ran a little ruff with the choke on about 1/2 way but I could not take the choke of or it would die.

Feeling the exhaust pipes one is hot and the other is warm, but both should be HOT. Will running i grab the bad side spark plug wire and it felt like my had was SPARKING with the engine. Could my wire be bad?

Also while running it backfired a few times out of the cold side exhaust

I been working on this for 3 weeks now and would REALLY like to get it going 8) any thought as to what could be the issues.


ALSO one other issue my one carb has a slow drip from the drain bowl, but the screw is in there all the way. Do I need to adjust the float?

it is late and I hope this make some sense with the way I wrote it
 

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You won't know what size valve shims you need until you determine the actual valve clearance you have. If you can only get a feeler guage between the cam flat and the shim (or bucket) that is .14, and the minumum clearance is .17, then you will need a shim that is .03 thinner. That should allow a feeler of .17 in between. I like to go on the high side of the range so I don't have to do it again a few thousand miles down the road.

Lemon juice to clean the carbs? That's a new one on me. Does it work well?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My bike is the screw adjustments on the valves. I bought a feeler gauge but like I said the measurement makes no sense to me. I have to but about 5 of the feelers together to get close to .17 if it is that fat then I think I am doing it wrong. in the book it does not show 5 put together.

Is there a video of this showing someone doing it, that might help.

Mr. Mystery 's carb cleaning Photo Album - MySpace Photos

here is some before and after pics. from the first time I did it. I think it worked well. The had oil and grease residue around the pot from the carbs. I would say take the float out if you try it. and take out all the jet and boil the jets as well
 

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If you have a standard feeler gauge, each blade has a thickness marked on it. First you need to know if your feeler gauge is metric or standard (mm or thousandth). If you have a metric guauge and you know the metric value that you want to set the valves at then you pick the thickest blade that is closest to the value you want without being thicker. Lets say you want .017, so you select the .015 blade then add the .002 blade with it. That totals the .017 you need with only 2 blades of the gauge.

P.S. If you suspect a wire is arching to ground, (which it sounds like yours is) an easy way to check for this is to start it up at night in the dark. While it's idling, use a screwdriver to raise the wire up off the motor and move the wire around and look for electrical arching. It should be easy to see in the dark. But if you can grab the wire and get shocked then the insulation is breaking down and it should be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am going to take some pics and post them. But today I fired up the bike for a few and grabbed both spark plug wire at the cap and was getting shocked some by the metal on the engine. If I hold the wires only I did not get shock. Also Both cylinder did fire some today as both pipes where hot.

But looking at the valves they seem to be a LONG way off unless I am looking at it wrong. I have a feeler gauge in MM but the book said something about a thickness gauge which i am guessing is the same thing. But with thicker feelers.

My main question is WHERE do I measure from. The top of the valve to the bottom on the rocker arm. I think that what it is called. It suppose to be .22mm but mine are much high around 1/2 in. I will get some pics and post and maybe that will give you some idea of what I am talking about.

By the way both spark plug had oil on them and they where new 2 week ago, I took them out and cleaned them today
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mr. Mystery 's Valve Photo Album - MySpace Photos

for pics you can see there is a big gap, about the same on tall the valves Way over .22mm. i should measure from the bottem of the arm to the top of the valve, correct?

video of it running for a few with the choke about half way, it is running a little ruff and the pipes are rusted with some holes so it might make it sound louder

Running for a few Video by Mr. Mystery - MySpace Video

Also saw some white smoke from the carbs when it turn off one time.

any thoughts
 

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Video sounds like it's only running on one cylinder. And easy way to tell is to spray mist some water on the exhaust where it exits the head. It should turn to steam instantly. If one is doing this much slower than the other then it's not running on that cylinder. At least not 100% of the time.

For adjusting the valves. Make sure the cam lobe for that rocker arm is rotated away from that rocker arm so it's not applying any pressure. Now loosen the lock nut. Insert the feeler gauge blade/s between the end of the valve and the adjuster (the bolt with the screwdriver slot in the top). Turn the screw in or out until you can slide the feeler gauge but any tighter and it starts to bind the feeler gauge. Then while holding the screw so it can't move, tighten the lock nut.
 

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Mike gave a very good description on setting valve lash.

If you could not understand that then check this link and click on the pictures to enlarge. Dan's Motorcycle Valve Adjustment

If you cannot figure out by looking at the pics then get someone else to do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i got the valves done but I am still have one cylinder running issues. may try to get some new wires and see what happens
 

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If your the adventurous type, start the bike then slide your finger down along the length of the plug wire. If you get zapped then you know the insulation on the plug wires is breaking down and should be replaced. :lol:
 
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