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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi :)
Ok, here is the deal. Purchased this bike unseen, flew down with a one way ticket and rode it back 750km along a motorway. I have not ridden so much on Kawas (appart from a 900 Ninja a few times) and was not happy with the front end. It felt soft and sqwishy and was rather interesting at roadwork sites where the road was uneven, also, beware of the dotted white line when overtaking.
I have narrowed it down to a wanked front tire and an air seal leak in the left fork.
There is no oil leaking. There is no play in the steering or back end.
How do these bikes handle? I had an 82-GSX1100 which I loved and although she was heavy I never had handling problems. I shall strip the forks and replace the seals, bushes and oil. Any handy hints and pointers?
I have the front wheel off and am going to attack the forks when I finish writing this!
Oh yeah, what about the exaust. Does it have a manifold gasket?
And I saw that cylinders (sparkplugs) 1 and 4 have black soot on them whereas 2 and 3 were brown!
Mmm, I suspect there will be more. You know the story, "if you dont look you wont find"
Happy days
~;-)
 

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my 82 1000 handles ok considering 27 year old suspension technology.Kawi manual says 10-20 fork oil, but Kawi no longer makes multi grade so u can do as I did and get a q of 10 ,a q of 20 and mix them. mine is anything but "soft" in the front end so seals are in order I would think.air p in the forks is only 7 pounds or so- if u exceed by much risk is u will blow the seals out again so be careful--i use a hand bike pump and not a compressor.u can change the fork oil and not remove the springs,but if u do,be sure and flush the dirt out of the lower end of the forks with a suitable cleaner.hope this helps.bj
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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Yes the exhaust has copper crush washers/gaskets between the pipes and the cyl head. If both 1&4 are black it could be due to a weak coil or low coil input voltage. Low input voltage is very common with these older kaws because of dirty/corroded wiring connectors in the wiring harness. There is a mod that can be easily done to give full battery voltage to the coils if that is a problem. With the key on, check the + input voltage to the coils compared to a direct reading of the battery voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, sweet. Thanks. I wonder if I could do away with the airbox and put some sort of free flow air filter on each "carb"? I see that there is a sensor in the airbox.. And being DFI I wonder how it would work??
 

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If the DFI is still working, I'd suggest not using the K&N cone air filters as I'm not sure the system would try to compensate for the difference.

Cleaning the sensors should help, on the right side of the engine before the air box is the throttle position sensor(TPS), remove the small wire clip retaining the wires,spray electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40!) up inside it and with the engine off open and close the throttle a few times.

Reconnect the wires and put the clip back in its grooves. The engine temperature sensor is on the engine between the #1 and#2 throttle bodies, it's got a push on wire conection that must be corrosion free for it to work.

The intake air sensor sits on a silencer for the air box closr to the fuse holder, again look for corrosion on the electrical connector.

There are five(5) fuses in the electrical system: a 10 amp flasher(turn signal) fuse,a 30 amp main fuse,a 10 amp tail/meter fuse(controls the tail light and instruments),a 10 amp horn/ignition, and a 10 amp headlight fuse.

This bike uses the AGX size fuse that is 1/4' in diameter and 1" long, the more common AGC fuse will not fit the fuse clips as they are 1 1/2" long.

Get some brasso metal polish and clean up the fuse clips. A cotton swab and brasso will clean them up nicely.

If the DFI is giving you problems, several owners have switched to BS34 carbs, but the dialing in will take a while.
 

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Ok, sweet. Thanks. I wonder if I could do away with the airbox and put some sort of free flow air filter on each "carb"? I see that there is a sensor in the airbox.. And being DFI I wonder how it would work??
Do NOT attempt to modify the flow of the GPZ DFI system. The system is very basic and crude, but functions reasonably well once you understand the system, and perform a few preventitive mods. ECM Vibration as I understand was the problems for most of the Kawasaki DFI systems. The DFI mapping is slightly lean, and there is no real method of enrichening a DFI system. There was also some problems when the TPS would build up some corrossion and malfunction. My DFI functions perfect thus far.
 

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If you encounter excessive rich running conditions, check the return line to the fuel tank.It will be on the bottom of the tank on the right side coming from the fuel pressure regulator. Some times it will stick closed creating an overly rich fuel/air mixture.

Many riders have removed the reed valves from the valve cover along with the hoses. Several places provide block off plates for doing this:

1.KZ Zone - Billet Stuff
2.TPO Parts
3.Kawasaki Z-1 KZ900/KZ1000 Performance Parts
 

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Eddie Lawson is God!
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ATK fork brace, Progressive Suspension fork springs. 15wt oil. NO air in the fork legs. I also have KZ1100 Spectre fork boots.

For tires I have run the stock K300M, K291FR, K391FR, K591FR, Metzeler Laser 100, Laser 110, and when finished BR45V Bridgestone. 100s or 3.50 19. 110s make it plow and make it steer like pewp.

Been running that combination since 1982.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Further inspection has reveled that at the air intake conections for 2 and 3 are damp with oil/fuel. These plugs are brown. What colour is correct for the plugs? There seems to be oil in the forward part of the air box..
Any ideas?
 

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The correct color for sparkplugs in this bike is usually a light tan on the center electrode. White is too lean and black is too rich.

Have you done a compression check and checked the valve clearances? I'd also check the input voltages at the primary(small wires) side of the ignition coils. If they are down around 8-10 volts, your bike is suffering a voltage/current drop affecting the spark energies.

The website wiredgeorge motorcycle carburetors - Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Carburetor Sales, Rebuilding and Restoration - Home covers how to use a automobile relay to increase spark energy.
 

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There, fixed it for you :)

It's easy to do on the GPz750 Turbo, just cut one wire and the fuel mileage drops by 30% :D
Ahhh yes.... "race mode" ?.... yea I did some lurking over at 750Turbo.com as well.... VERY cool site. I wished Kawi had pre-planned a similar mod in the 1100's as well
 

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are u running the stock Kawi fuel valve with the vacuum operated diaphram ? if so get rid of it and install a Pingel fuel valve. The OEm valves start leaking down and u will find urself with fuel in the intakes especially when u shut the valve "off".BJ
 

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No, he's got the FI with a 35 PSI fuel pump. The only time you'd turn of the petcock would be to remove the gas tank(unless he changes to BS34 carbs, then he'd have to change the petcock(maybe).
 

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I have the same bike here in my garage. I have a factory shop manual with the wiring diagram and specs.

If the FI is still working, here's a pinout of the ECU mounted in the tail section:

1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pinout


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal
 

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I am not sure what fuel tap it is. When I removed the tank, it ran fuel no matter what position it was in.
There is 3 fuel petcock lever positions, "on" , "reserve" (when "on" fuel flow gets depleated), and "off" . IMO "off" really doesn't have a need on Kawai's DFI bikes, as excessive raw fuel can't be introduced into the engine (or leaking out onto your floor) when parked. "Off" is needed for 25 year old, gravity fed, carburated bikes with "questionably worn" carb inlet needles and seats.
 
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