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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone could help:

On Thursday, I bought my first bike! Picked up an '82 kz750 CSR/kz750m1, looks 100% stock with 17k miles on it. Now, the bike had been sitting for a while (tabs expired in '02), so I knew I was in for some work. The engine runs (a bit rough, but now that it has new gas in it, no more white smoke and she seems a lot happier) and it is in overall good condition (looks like it was garaged for most of its life), but it has its quirks. We rode the bike home (5 miles) and it drove, shifted, turned, handled, stopped etc fine.

The first issue I am trying to tackle is lights - none of them work. Period. Guy I bought it from said that they were working a few days before and would kick on after riding for a while. We just spent most of the day diagnosing and figured a bunch out.

Fuses and bulbs are good (well, not the headlight anymore - that cracked while we were removing it). Looks like all of the wire connectors are solid and clean (we pulled and checked every one we found).

It has a new battery and I know that there is power because the electric starter turns and the engine starts to sputter when I hit the button, but I have not been able to actually start the bike. The kick start does get the bike running.

Headlight does not turn on (high or low beams), turn signals do not turn on or blink, tail light does not turn on or flash with brakes, horn does not work.

We seem to be getting good readings with a ohm meter for every wire that we checked (did not get to all of them) and we think that we have it narrowed down to a primary ground wire.

We got odd readings from the turn signal relay (ohm meter reading a few ohms). What should an ohm meter read across a good turn signal relay?

I think the starter is its own issue and plan on taking care of that next, but does anyone have any ideas what else to check?

Thanks in advance!
 

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This space for rent
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For future comments, the KZ750M1 CSR is a 750 twin :)

Sounds like you don't have a manual and a wiring diagram, so go to http://kz750twins.com/ and download one.

Wiring being one of the toughest things to diagnose over the net, I'm going to guess that you have an ignition switch problem.

Starter clutch is a fairly easy fix.
 

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I'd also recommend that instead of trying to ohm out all the wires and connections, to turn the key on and trace voltage to see where you lose it at. This should prove to be a lot faster as you only have to ground one lead then just probe at different points to find where you are losing voltage in any circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good call! I just checked the five fuses.

Little box of two fuses:
Both fuses read voltage between battery ground and fuse

Box of three fuses:
Only one fuse read voltage - the 20A Ignition fuse
The other two did not, they did read 0 ohms between the fuse and both terminals of the battery. That means a short, doesn't it...
 

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Something is not right with your reading or the way you are stating it. If you get 0 ohms from a specific point to either end of the battery then that is essentially saying the two terminals of the battery are connected to each other in some manner. Of course if this were true the battery would have to be dead or I'd expect it to get very hot very fast and maybe even explode. I don't have a schematic for your bike but if it holds true to form, the smaller fuses won't have power to them until the ign switch is on. If there is a problem in the ign switch or with the wiring they may not get power even when the switch is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry, you are right, I wasn't checking ohms correctly. Nevermind that.

When I turn the key, I get power to the ignition, but not to any of the lights. I'm going to check a couple of the connections, else something in the ignition switch.
 

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Check for power coming out of the ign switch when you turn it on. That way you can eliminate the switch or know if it's the problem.

The fastest way to find a problem in an electrical circuit is to keep testing at the mid way point of the circuit or failing portion of the circuit.
 
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