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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to restore an '83 1100 Spectre to as close to original as I can get it. I was lucky enough to find this bike already in pretty good shape, and with used parts from eBay and new parts where available I've gotten it pretty close.
The problem I'm trying to track down now is that while it idles OK (after warming up), it runs pretty rough between about 1,500 and 2,500 RPM.
I had the carbs rebuilt by someone in the SE part of the country I can't remember anymore, and when they came back I balanced them and got the idle mixture set correctly (it took a lot of digging to find out the proper setting for the idle mixture).
I'm not sure where I should be looking. I'd welcome any suggestions.

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's no real "setting" for the idle screws, you have a starting point, and get the bike to smooth out, and then you're there.
The idle mixture screws are set at the factory and access plugged. You're not supposed to mess with them. When I got them back from the rebuild I saw that the plugs had been removed, probably long before I sent them off. Because you're not supposed to mess with them there's little (i.e., no) information on adjusting them. I saw numerous posts recommending starting at ~4 turns. I tried that, but the problem is with 4 carbs it's really difficult to tell any difference tweaking one of them. It ran "OK", but the choke was driving me crazy - once the bike got started it would immediately rev to ~4K RPM, but if you reduced the choke to compensate the bike would die.
I finally found a note, I think in a KZ1100 shop manual (the same basic bike was also used as a "cruiser" with wrap-around fairing - with radio/speakers - and hard bags) that said to set the idle mixture adjustment at 1-1/4 turns. I did that, and it made a HUGE difference. I tried minor adjustments, but again, with 4 carbs,.... I left them at 1-1/4 turns.
Balancing the carbs with the idle screws is something entirely different. I have a homemade jig to watch the vacuum levels, and it's not that difficult.
I'm doing this labor of love because I had one of these that I bought new back in '83 (mine was an '82, very minor differences) that I really loved. It came straight from the dealer with a KG sissy bar/luggage rack. I was extremely lucky to find a period correct KG sissy bar/luggage rack that's almost identical to what my '82 had. It was pretty rusty, but cleaned up nicely. The only difference is that I this one won't fit with the rear grab bar on and I know my original had both. The tall backrest was ideal for strapping things like backpacks, sleeping bags, etc., to.

As an aside, there's a very small red switch on the left control cluster, next to the horn/turn signal/high beam switches. I can't figure out what it's for :-( If anyone has any ideas, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I may try adjusting the idle mixture. I could try raising the needles, but that would entail taking the carbs off the bike and taking them apart, which is a PITA (but still something I should do, just to check that the the rebuild put them back right.) The 1-1/4 turns was indeed from a shop manual for the KZ1000/KZ1100 - the 1100 series were covered as an appendix, and had fuel injectors, so it specifically referred to the KZ1000. But it's the same carbs. And the note was region-related - the US was N/A, but for Canada and all other regions it was 1-1/4 turns.
I'll probably get it back on the lift and check the timing advance first. I'd need to do that before messing with the carbs anyway.

As an aside, there's a very small red switch on the left control cluster, next to the horn/turn signal/high beam switches. I can't figure out what it's for :-( If anyone has any ideas, let me know.
I figured out what this was. This is the emergency flasher switch. So I have either a blown fuse to find or a flasher relay to replace.
 
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