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1983 Kawasaki Gpz 750 starter clutch repair /replacement? It rattles but does not turn the engine, so I figure that at minimum , it needs the roller/spring kit and maximum a new plate that they seat in as well ( the plate can crack and will then never work). Problem is: I have never done one on this motor and do not know how to proceed. I see that the earlier KZ engine (starter motor on front of engine ) requires sump off as well as side covers. Any experts out there?--
 

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I did one a couple of years back. It does require the sump off as well as the side casings but can be done with the engine in the frame.

It took me most if the morning to get it out, about five minutes to fix and about an hour to reassemble.
 

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Can you kindly confirm that you are talking about a GPz, as my starter is behind the cylinders, covered by a tin plate, that can be removed after the carbs are off. Any more detail you can provide would be greatly appreciated, in the absence of a manual (for now). TVM.
 

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Yes, gpz750 A1 Unitrac.

Removing the starter motor is easy; the rest is straightforward but too involved to run you through it here.

You really need to invest in a manual before you start, although once you’ve done it a first time, it’s a lot easier subsequently.
 

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The starter or cranking motor is not the starting clutch, which resides on the secondary shaft behind the crank INSIDE . This is a bearing like, one way, device. All KZ750/650/550 have same architecture. If this is the problem, slipping, (sounds like), do not use any kits... Replace the whole clutch including the races. It is too much disassemble to have to do it again short after. Yes, the oil pan, the exhaust, the WHOLE tranny clutch have to come out, and oil pump. Secondary shaft comes out from left to right and starting clutch falls through the oil pan opening.
 

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1983 Kawasaki Gpz 750 starter clutch repair /replacement? It rattles but does not turn the engine, so I figure that at minimum , it needs the roller/spring kit and maximum a new plate that they seat in as well ( the plate can crack and will then never work). Problem is: I have never done one on this motor and do not know how to proceed. I see that the earlier KZ engine (starter motor on front of engine ) requires sump off as well as side covers. Any experts out there?--
Use a good manual. I have had the alternator cover off of a couple of J motors. The alternator cover and the cover over the front chain sprocket had to be removed. Suggest remove the covers and inspect everything carefully. The 3 yellow alternator stator wires will need to be unplugged.. they are behind the front chain sprocket cover. Check for broken rotor magnets or damage to the stator. The rotor and stator are expensive so be careful with them. The gear on the starter is often worn or damaged to the point where it does not turn that little reduction gear. In that case I just get a new starter. Do not loose the little pin in the reduction gear it sometimes just flops out. Pay special attention to the "dampening" washer which is behind the Starter gear assembly. It has a certain thickness. If it is too worn or put in backwards the starter will slip. I put a 3 pin plug on the stator wires. Used bike in gear and foot on rear brake to remove the rotor bolt. Did not drain oil but put an oil pan under the alternator cover before removing it. Good Luck.
 
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