Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'M A NEWBIE AND I Just Got MY FIRST Bike, Pulled The Carbs Apart To Clean Them And 2 Of The Main Jets Were 105's And The Other 2 Were 108's. Are They Supposed To Be Like This??? Whats The Stock Size?? Which Of The 2 Would Be Best? My Bike Seems To Be Running Rich. Pulled The Pilot Valves Out; 3 Were Marked 85 And There Was 1 That Was Completely Different Than The Others, It Was So Banged Up I Couldn't Read Any Markings. Are They Supposed To Be 85's? Where Is The Easiest/cheapest Place To Get Parts?? Its A 1987 Ninja Zx600B AND HAS STOCK AIR FILTERS AND EXHAUST PLEASE HELP AND THANKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Those are the right size main jets for this bike.The two on the outside are smaller than the two inside ones which have more heat to deal with.I think your pilot jets are 38s but you have to look real hard sometimes at the numbers.35 pilot jets are for Ca. model.If you have a Ca. bike the manual calls for 108 mains for all four carbs.Float height is 17mm for all models and fuel screws @ 2 turns out.Dealer or independent shop is the best and most economical place for jets @ 3.50-4.00 for mains and a little bit more for pilots.If your bike starts without using ANY choke your pilot jets are too big.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have a friend who has some size 100 main jets and 93 pilots . Would they work and if so would the fuel screw adjustment be the same? Would they make the bike run to lean? Do you know anything else that I should know? Sorry bout all the questions. But thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
100 mains are too lean even with stock exhaust and airbox.Start with 105s on the outside and 108s on the inside carbs.On the pilots you can try 35s but 38s will probably be better.Start at 2 turns out on fuel screws.If your bike starts without the choke on with 38s go down to 35s.93s are waaaay too big.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks suzy I ordered the parts from the dealer . They should be in next friday . Thanks for all the help One last question why wouldn't you want the bike to start with no choke ? Because after I change the plugs in this bike it would start with no choke. Before I cleaned the carbs! But before that you would have to crank for 30 to 45 sec. at full choke before it would start cold. I replace the champion plugs wich were a 5/8 socket size with NGK's 2420 wich had like a 18mm size but they fit fine. I got tht plugs from Advance Autoparts (Not exactly the Kawasaki capitial) But do you think they were right. I've also ordered a book for the bike Not Hanes But i can't recall the name. And again Thanks For The Help>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
The plugs you got are fine-I get mine from discount auto parts stores too and 18mm socket is what I use.A choke circuit does just what it says.It chokes off the air supply so you get a rich fuel mixture which helps the bike start right up when the cylinders are stone cold.After the engine has had a period of warming it can get by with a leaner mixture to run properly.Leaving the choke on or having too large pilot jets will cause some stumbles in the upper rev range after the engine is warmed up(hot),increased fuel consumption(gas is 2.75 here) and carboned up valves.In saying this its far better to have a rich condition vs. lean.Lean will cause the engine to run hot and over the long term can melt your exhaust valves.The ZX600 85-87 is the most PITA bike I have ever fooled with in regards to carburation.The airbox/battery box setup only makes removing and tuning the carbs even more aggravating.I can pull the carbs and do whatever to them on my 89 ZX10 in a 1/4 of the time it takes on this bike.My wife had an 86 and sold it 2 years ago and was I glad-not because it wasnt a good bike but it freed up a LOT of time for work on my bike.When this bike is dialed in its a ripper!!!Before you get too involved with the carbs do yourself a big favor-adjust the valves.Valve adjustments will clear up a lot of "carb" problems.So what bike do you think my 15 yr old son brought home last month?The only reason he still has teeth is that he is my size now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
How involved is adjusting the valves? Does it have hydralic lifter or solid? I want to install turn signals to the bike also it came from the factory with none. I see the wiring is there but is the flasher relay? Where is it located? Is that some thing I can get from an auto parts store or do I have to get that from the Dealer? Many thanks again and MERRY CHRISTMAS !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
If you have any mechanical aptitude and it sounds like you do its not hard at all just.Just take your time and double check everything before you reinstall the valve cover.This bike uses threaded adjusters so there is no removing shims etc.Get yourself a service manual on ebay or dealer(25.00 or so).The procedure is simple if youre not sure about something read and re-read that part again.Basically when the pistons are at top dead center you adjust the valves that are facing UP or AWAY from the engine.The clearances can be found on a sticker under your seat.Turn signal relay is mounted under the gas tank at the front of the frame.If that ones toast you can match it one at auto parts store.Waaay cheaper than dealer.BTW Ive never seen a bad one on a bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
There are two of the under the tank 1 seems to be a relay and i'm not sure of the other. I have no juice coming to the factory signal wires coming from the wiring harnessand at the front or rear and no indcator light on the dash lights up or flashes when I Switch the control in either direction . Do you think that because it didn't come from the factory with them? They didn't connect them at the fuse block ? The horn doesn't work either do you think I may have a problem in the left handlebar controls? Where would you start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
There are 2 connectors that are the same but go to different connections.1 goes to the ignition switch the other goes to the dash harness(I think).Switch them around.I dont know why they put 2 of the same connection blocks on here.If you have the harness that plugs into the headlight proper everything is there.I thought my sons bike was toast until I switched the connectors too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Its Raining Pretty Good Here But I Finaly Got A Chance To Switch Those Plugs Around. The Horn Worked . But Thats As Far As I Got Tomorrow I'll Test The Signal Wires But I Still Didn't Get Any Lights Lit On The Dash . I'll Keep U Posted Thanks
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top