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Discussion Starter #1
hi,
i have a 1990 bayou 220 that will not idle. When it gets warmed up real good it will idle, but very poorly. the idle is up and down. i have cleaned and rebuilt the carb. I have adjusted the pilot air screw to 2 1/2 turns out.(the kawasaki mechanic told me that was the best). the clip on the needle is in the second position from the bottom. the air filter is new. the only way i can keep this machine running is to increase the idle screw, but then it is way to high. The machine feels like it is missing when the idle is high. The bike runs great at 1/4 to Full throttle.
could The CDI cause this? I have tested the CDI with an OHM meter. In the Clymer repair manual there is a chart for what the reading should be. If i tested the cdi correctly, values in the manual dont match mine. the dealer wasnt much help with this.
The exhaust valve clearance seems to be with in specs. I could not check the intake valves clearance though.
does anyone have any ideas??????
 

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have you thoroughly cleaned the smaller jet in the carb? its a pain in the ***, you have to get piece of safety wire or somethin and shove it through there, that was my problem when it wouldnt idle
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply! I have replaced all the jets and needles. i used a Moose rebuild kit. I basicly stripped all the parts out down to the shell of the carb. Is there something more i should have done?
 

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Have a look at my latest post, I had a similar problem which turned out to be the cdi, Unfortunatley you cannot test a cdi with an ohm meter properly

hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was leaning towards the CDI. I just didnt want to spend that much money if it wasnt going to be the fix. The bike sure acts like the timing is off. at half - full throttle the bike seems ok. My problem is just at idle. I have checked the timing chain. The indicator mark on the sprocket lined up with the mark on the head, the flywheel isnt exactly lined with the hole on the case. i have not messed with the timing chain at all. can these boxes be repaired? or should i just buy a new/used one?
 

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Yes I know how you feel about spending the money, don't waste your money on a second hand one, I think the 220 cdi's aren't that expensive, repair is an option I had mine done and it cost $240 a new one down here in Australia is $650!!!
When you say the timing marks don't line up exactly, how far off is it ?
the chain will stretch over time but if it was a tooth out it would be quite noticable
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the timing marks are right. when looking at them from different angles it appeared to be off a little. I checked my intake valve clearance this weekend and it was at .015mm . the book says .015 - .020mm. i talked the the mechanics at kawasaki shop here in town. he told me to adjust to the .020mm, also got some carb dip. have the carb soaking in it know. the mechanic doesnt think it is the cdi. he thinks its valve clearance and dirty carb. They told me that if the cdi was bad the bike wouldnt run. i doubt that anything i did this weekend will make a difference. the valves were within spec and the carb didnt appear to be clogged. :frown:
if this doesnt work i think i will just replace the cdi.
 

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I doubt it would be your valve clearance if it's within spec, another couple things that might be worth checking before you part with your hard earned cash is your spark plug and lead, also you can test your pulser coil with an ohm meter your manual should tell you how
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ausmarty,

Thanks for the reply! The spark plug gap was a little off, but still within spec. regapped to the middle range in book. the pulsar coil is brand new. the kawasaki mechanic told me to close up the gap on the coil. he said the bayou's run better with the coil a little closer to the flywheel. theres not much else it could be. i am getting a great spark, compression will rip your arm of if you try to pull start it. the top end is faster than my 2000 bayou. this is a great little atv, it just a some gremlin:p
 

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Something else to try, pull the plug out and rest it on the engine, now stick yer finger down the plug hole not too far now or you'll find out all about compression ratios :), with the ignition on push the starter while the engine turns you will feel the compression on your finger when it comes up on compression stroke while this is happening check to see where the spark plug is sparking in relation to the compression stroke, if it's firing in the wrong spot it may be pointing to the cdi
Disclamer: I will not be held responsible for you or anyone reading this post getting there finger mutilated by the piston and or valves :S
Hope this helps
 

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Hi,

Do you know someone who's into electronic repair? Or have a local TV repair place? They could check the CDI over for any dry joints - something ECUs in cars sometimes suffer from, yet most get replaced at a cost of hundreds when they could be repaired. If you were in the UK, I'd happily do it for you if it were posted to me.

Something that was affecting the idling on one our Mule 3000s quite a bit was the fuel pump. When I dismantled it I found the contact points were in bad shape and one was worn down terribly. Some thick copper from some large fuse's legs (300A) ground down, soldered on and filed to the right shape made it as good as knew. Almost 2 months on and it's still fine (incidentally, did the same with the contact plates in the starter motor after it died and we just got a click when trying to start it, that was 4 months ago and still working great).

Other than that, excessively high or low compression, dirty fuel filters... can't think of anything else.
 

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Hi,

Do you know someone who's into electronic repair? Or have a local TV repair place? They could check the CDI over for any dry joints - something ECUs in cars sometimes suffer from, yet most get replaced at a cost of hundreds when they could be repaired. If you were in the UK, I'd happily do it for you if it were posted to me.

Something that was affecting the idling on one our Mule 3000s quite a bit was the fuel pump. When I dismantled it I found the contact points were in bad shape and one was worn down terribly. Some thick copper from some large fuse's legs (300A) ground down, soldered on and filed to the right shape made it as good as knew. Almost 2 months on and it's still fine (incidentally, did the same with the contact plates in the starter motor after it died and we just got a click when trying to start it, that was 4 months ago and still working great).

Other than that, excessively high or low compression, dirty fuel filters... can't think of anything else.
what did you ever find my quad is doing the same
 
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