I have a 1990 zx1100 that has had alot of work done on the motor. Sumtimes when I try to start it it doesn't do anything when I push the start button. Can jump the solenoid and it will start up. Other times it starts no problem but as im riding it it dies like I shut off the ignition switch. And it does it more if I'm getting into it. Im not sure what to check on it.
90 zx1100 shuts off and dies while riding.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Joined
·
24 Posts
When it cuts out when you are riding does it just cut the motor or do you lose all electrical power?
Sometimes I can stand there pushing the start button for like 5-10 minutes before it will crank over. When I push the button and it does nothing I've tested the wires coming out of the switch and it does have power but doesn't crank over.
I have replaced the relay and bypassed the side stand switch and the bike still doesn't crank. It cranks when I cross the solenoid with a screwdriver but doesn't start. I have power coming out of the start switch when I push it. I'm at a loss. Not sure what to check and don't want to just start replacing parts guessing. The motor has had alot done to it by dynojet but the bike still has factory cdi, stator and coils. Should I consider upgrading those parts as well.
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
One thing to remember when testing for voltage with a voltmeter, the voltmeter does not put a load on the start button. So while you may show power coming out of the start button when testing with the voltmeter, this does not mean the start button will actually pass that same voltage or amps to pull in the starter relay.
When you push the start button you should hear the relay click. If it does not, you are not getting power to the relay or the relay is bad. Since you replaced the relay you should hear a click. Are you hearing a click? You will have to get your ear close to the relay in a quiet area, but it will make an audible click as the contacts close.
When you push the start button you should hear the relay click. If it does not, you are not getting power to the relay or the relay is bad. Since you replaced the relay you should hear a click. Are you hearing a click? You will have to get your ear close to the relay in a quiet area, but it will make an audible click as the contacts close.
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
To avoid confusion, lets clarify some terms. Kawasaki likes to refer to the solenoid as a relay but that is confusing because you also have a starter relay in the junction box. So for our purposes let's agree that the solenoid is the final device that sends power to the starter motor and the starter relay is the device within the junction box that sends power to the solenoid.
Your solenoid should have the following wires:
White
Black/Yellow
Yellow/Red
Your starter relay should have the following wires:
Yellow/Green
Yellow/Red
Black/Red
Your start button should have the following wires:
*Black/Red
*Black/Red
* These are the colours exiting from the start button
Your start button colours change at the 6 Pin connector to:
Red
Black/Red
Find the 6 Pin connector (probably under the fuel tank). Leave it connected.
Turn on the ignition key and check for power on the brown wire. If good then check for power on the red wire. If good press the start button and check for power on the Black/Red wire on the harness side of the 6 pin connector.
If all of the above tests are good then turn off the ignition and measure the resistance between the RED wire and the Black/Red wires WHILE pressing the start button and report back the results. Note, this test needs to be done on the harness side of the 6 Pin connector.
These tests are critical before we go any further.
Your solenoid should have the following wires:
White
Black/Yellow
Yellow/Red
Your starter relay should have the following wires:
Yellow/Green
Yellow/Red
Black/Red
Your start button should have the following wires:
*Black/Red
*Black/Red
* These are the colours exiting from the start button
Your start button colours change at the 6 Pin connector to:
Red
Black/Red
Find the 6 Pin connector (probably under the fuel tank). Leave it connected.
Turn on the ignition key and check for power on the brown wire. If good then check for power on the red wire. If good press the start button and check for power on the Black/Red wire on the harness side of the 6 pin connector.
If all of the above tests are good then turn off the ignition and measure the resistance between the RED wire and the Black/Red wires WHILE pressing the start button and report back the results. Note, this test needs to be done on the harness side of the 6 Pin connector.
These tests are critical before we go any further.
Try turning your handle bars as you try to start it. You could have a bad wire going from the bar switches to the relay box. I think this is what WFO-KZ is trying to have you test. One of my bikes would stop at full lock turn sometimes, and sometimes it wouldn't start until I moved the bars back and forth. The most probable place is around the fuel tank mounts to the frame. It is easy to pinch the wires at that location. Even if the current installation isn't pinched there could be damage that is now causing an open wire condition. As the bars are turned the wire will sometimes make a good enough connection to work.
All connections above have power to them. I couldn't do the resistance test cause my meter broke and I haven't had transportation to get to reno and get a new digital meter. I just ordered a dynatek dynamic 2000 adjustable ignition system for it tho.
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Add to that it might give you as big a headache as your current issue/s.
Baby steps..
Baby steps..
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!