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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1990 zx1100 that has had alot of work done on the motor. Sumtimes when I try to start it it doesn't do anything when I push the start button. Can jump the solenoid and it will start up. Other times it starts no problem but as im riding it it dies like I shut off the ignition switch. And it does it more if I'm getting into it. Im not sure what to check on it.
 

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Hi ,welcome to the forum, I would swap out the starter relay for a new one ,they are relatively cheap and should sort your problem, if not come back to us I'm sure its an easy enough problem to get rid of,
 

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The starting issue could definitely be the solenoid but the dying while riding could be your handlebar kill switch, or a bad ignition switch or a bad side stand switch.
 

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I have a 1990 zx1100 that has had alot of work done on the motor. Sumtimes when I try to start it it doesn't do anything when I push the start button. Can jump the solenoid and it will start up. Other times it starts no problem but as im riding it it dies like I shut off the ignition switch. And it does it more if I'm getting into it. Im not sure what to check on it.
When it cuts out when you are riding does it just cut the motor or do you lose all electrical power?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The motor cuts off like I turned the key off. It was starting back up but now it doesn't even turn over. If I cross the solenoid with the key on it just cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sometimes I can stand there pushing the start button for like 5-10 minutes before it will crank over. When I push the button and it does nothing I've tested the wires coming out of the switch and it does have power but doesn't crank over.
 

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Have you installed a new starter relay like Ropp suggested?
Have you tested the side stand switch or kill switch yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have replaced the relay and bypassed the side stand switch and the bike still doesn't crank. It cranks when I cross the solenoid with a screwdriver but doesn't start. I have power coming out of the start switch when I push it. I'm at a loss. Not sure what to check and don't want to just start replacing parts guessing. The motor has had alot done to it by dynojet but the bike still has factory cdi, stator and coils. Should I consider upgrading those parts as well.
 

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One thing to remember when testing for voltage with a voltmeter, the voltmeter does not put a load on the start button. So while you may show power coming out of the start button when testing with the voltmeter, this does not mean the start button will actually pass that same voltage or amps to pull in the starter relay.

When you push the start button you should hear the relay click. If it does not, you are not getting power to the relay or the relay is bad. Since you replaced the relay you should hear a click. Are you hearing a click? You will have to get your ear close to the relay in a quiet area, but it will make an audible click as the contacts close.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The relay on my bike has 4 prongs. One is removed on the original solenoid and spliced in the harness and ran directly to the positive terminal on the solenoid. Could this make any differance.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have power coming out of the start switch but it's not getting to the solenoid. The white wire in the solenoid plug has constant power but thats it.
 

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To avoid confusion, lets clarify some terms. Kawasaki likes to refer to the solenoid as a relay but that is confusing because you also have a starter relay in the junction box. So for our purposes let's agree that the solenoid is the final device that sends power to the starter motor and the starter relay is the device within the junction box that sends power to the solenoid.

Your solenoid should have the following wires:
White
Black/Yellow
Yellow/Red

Your starter relay should have the following wires:
Yellow/Green
Yellow/Red
Black/Red

Your start button should have the following wires:
*Black/Red
*Black/Red
* These are the colours exiting from the start button

Your start button colours change at the 6 Pin connector to:
Red
Black/Red

Find the 6 Pin connector (probably under the fuel tank). Leave it connected.
Turn on the ignition key and check for power on the brown wire. If good then check for power on the red wire. If good press the start button and check for power on the Black/Red wire on the harness side of the 6 pin connector.

If all of the above tests are good then turn off the ignition and measure the resistance between the RED wire and the Black/Red wires WHILE pressing the start button and report back the results. Note, this test needs to be done on the harness side of the 6 Pin connector.

These tests are critical before we go any further.
 

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Try turning your handle bars as you try to start it. You could have a bad wire going from the bar switches to the relay box. I think this is what WFO-KZ is trying to have you test. One of my bikes would stop at full lock turn sometimes, and sometimes it wouldn't start until I moved the bars back and forth. The most probable place is around the fuel tank mounts to the frame. It is easy to pinch the wires at that location. Even if the current installation isn't pinched there could be damage that is now causing an open wire condition. As the bars are turned the wire will sometimes make a good enough connection to work.
 

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Good point jpd. The test procedure I outlined will find any kind of fault including pinched or broken wires, bad grounds, corroded connections and faulty switches. Once we get feedback from Chucklez, we can continue with further testing if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All connections above have power to them. I couldn't do the resistance test cause my meter broke and I haven't had transportation to get to reno and get a new digital meter. I just ordered a dynatek dynamic 2000 adjustable ignition system for it tho.
 

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I would caution against installing the Dynatek system until you figure out what is wrong with your current setup.
The Dynatek unit won't fix bad wiring or corroded connections.
 
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