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Hi there.

Please explain where you started your trace, and at which points you found voltage and what is the probe you are using.
With that info we can try to help you take this further. Bypassing anything in the junction box is NOT advised.
 

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Usually, you start at the junction box. Do you know how to jump start the solenoid to see if it turns the bike over? (You do this in neutral, as it will turn over even with the keys off) If it doesn't jump start, you have a bad solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright, sorry here's some more Info. Yes I've jumped the solenoid, it's new. I bypassed the box anyways temporarily lastnight and I
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got the start button to work, also got it to want to run. I currently dont have the tank on it because it needs to be patched and sealed..

Also with the probing. I started at the switch, followed it to the junction box. With a multimeter. I'm leaning towards a bad junction box.

Thank you for all the replies.
 

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If start button now works, what happens when you eliminate the bypass?

If eliminating the bypass prevents the starter from cranking then I would investigate all of the safety switches that were identified in post #4. If the J-box does not get the right signals from the safety switches it will not allow power to flow to the starter solenoid.

I am going to assume that you have checked all fuses, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If start button now works, what happens when you eliminate the bypass?

If eliminating the bypass prevents the starter from cranking then I would investigate all of the safety switches that were identified in post #4. If the J-box does not get the right signals from the safety switches it will not allow power to flow to the starter solenoid.

I am going to assume that you have checked all fuses, right?

I checked the fuses in the Junction box. I don't know where I'd find any other fuses. Bike is in neutral, I bypassed the kickstand switch. I'm unsure what else to check. It seems like a simple system, just confused.
All the systems are working besides that. I have spark, I have gauge lights, taillights, horn, headlight. May I ask why by passing the box is bad? If done with a relay properly it should be fine right?
 

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If internal corrosion in the J-box is the cause of the current problem you have to wonder what will fail next?

I have split J-boxes before in order to test and clean and/or repair loose contacts. I would look at doing that if you are sure the J-box is at fault. Or replace the entire box with a new or used one.

I would strongly advise getting a factory service manual so you fully understand the complex circuitry in the J-box.
 

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The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.
Yea I know, just trouble shooting. Can't find a new box, may just have to used.
The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.
There's no relay, just that box, see photos above
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.
In theory, if I only bypassed the positive and the safetys are ground. Wouldn't what I did not work. So I think in saying all of that my safety switches are working as they should.
 

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I have not looked at your manual, but I believe most junction boxes look at all the safety inputs before they allow the starter to be engaged. This is why I figured you had an issue with one of the safety switches. I don't see how the safety switches can possibly function if you bypass the junction box.

Test it and see. Put the bike in gear, don't pull in the clutch and hit the starter button, but make sure that the bike is on its centre stand so you don't drive it off the side stand when it lurches forward.
 

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Sadly it seems you have the kind of junction box that has no replaceable parts other than fuses.
So the problem could lie with the starter circuit relay that is integral to the box.

In theory, you could devise a system of relays that would provide the same OEM function by connecting to your safety switches. But I see Partzilla has new OEM boxes for $180. Not as bad as I expected.

Before paying that, I would make darn sure it is the box and not the switches that are at fault.
 
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