93 NINJA ZX600R no signal to starter solenoid

WFO-KZ said:

If start button now works, what happens when you eliminate the bypass?

If eliminating the bypass prevents the starter from cranking then I would investigate all of the safety switches that were identified in post #4. If the J-box does not get the right signals from the safety switches it will not allow power to flow to the starter solenoid.

I am going to assume that you have checked all fuses, right?

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I checked the fuses in the Junction box. I don't know where I'd find any other fuses. Bike is in neutral, I bypassed the kickstand switch. I'm unsure what else to check. It seems like a simple system, just confused.
All the systems are working besides that. I have spark, I have gauge lights, taillights, horn, headlight. May I ask why by passing the box is bad? If done with a relay properly it should be fine right?

bweighmaster said:

Check neutral switch , clutch switch . Push button ... Battery to fuse box , then to starter system ...

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Neutral switch seems to be working. Don't have to depress clutch to start the bike. No fuse between battery and box. Starting system all works when bypassing that junction box with start button wire.

WFO-KZ said:

When probing for voltage from starter button to J-box what was the voltage going into the J-box?

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12v

jpd said:

The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.

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Yea I know, just trouble shooting. Can't find a new box, may just have to used.

jpd said:

The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.

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There's no relay, just that box, see photos above

jpd said:

The ground for the start relay coil are the safety switches. You bypassed the positive or relay primary contact, but didn't check the relay control (coil) circuit. The coil operates the relay and then power goes to the solinoid.

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In theory, if I only bypassed the positive and the safetys are ground. Wouldn't what I did not work. So I think in saying all of that my safety switches are working as they should.

Ok so back to the original conversation, honestly I'm the only one driving the bike, my old Harley didn't have any safety switches. Therefore on this bike a safety switch is a Non-start issue waiting to happen, the bike is OLD, at this point I'm going to TAP the start button feed wire and run it through a relay and fuse to the starter solenoid. I've had the bike fire off like this(i don't have the tank on because I'm patching and cleaning it) with starting fluid. So everything is working. I respect everyone's opinion and I've collectively decided its ok to do what I'm needing to do to bypass a circuit and make a new one.

Oh and Keep the wife, don't trade the bike, its a more enjoyable life!

Anyone know where I can find a tank thats not rusted and $500?

WFO-KZ said:

Moving on then, if it tries to run using starter fluid it sounds like you you need to tackle the carbs next.

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yep, thank you for responding though, it was a long shot on a forum

Kawasakian said:

Is this a bike you are bringing back to life, or did it just stop running? Just curious. If I were bringing it back to life, I'd probably try and put on everything that was there if I could find it, and only bypass what can't be dealt with any other way. Kawasaki has a lot more of these devices than other motorcycles do, like sensing with the battery electrolyte is low. My Suzuki does not have that, I wish it did.

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the bike has been in our family for atleast 25 yrs, its recently been sitting for 13-14 years. My dad rode it last but developed a no crank issue randomly. He ran the carbs clean of gas like you should before storing in. It was in tip top condition before storing. It hasnt taken much to breathe life back into it.

Kawasakian said:

Quite a few tanks on EBAY right now.

Gas Tanks for 1993 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6 for sale | eBay

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Thank you but those aren't the same tanks

WFO-KZ said:

Always nice to know and good to know the backstory. Now how about some photos of this gem?

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I'll snap some later, all the body is off. They need some work too. But running the bike is top priority

Kawasakian said:

Those tanks say the same year and model that you have in the thread. Do you think you could put the bike's full factory name. I'm good at finding stuff, maybe I could dig one up for you.

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1993 Kawasaki Ninja ZX600C referred to as 600R

davidr1963 said:

It was known as the GPX600 on this side of the Atlantic. They can be bought for under $100 but I’m not sure of shipping and import costs. It may be worth investigating though.

fuel tank KAWASAKI GPX 600 R 1990 143401 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for fuel tank KAWASAKI GPX 600 R 1990 143401 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

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Thank you

Kawasakian said:

I would cut off the bottom of that tank along the weld. That way you can get inside and really fix it for once and for all. It's easier to do that way too. The weld stays hidden, even if your sloppy, nobody sees it, you can assume those pin holes are the size of a dime, maybe bigger, when you see how thin the rust is around the holes. You could make patch pieces from the inside (cutting out the rust, of course. It actually wouldn't take you much time, and cost you almost nothing. IMHO

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I don't weld like that. I'd probably destroy it. But does any if you have an opinion on installing pod filters? I don't think it would effect much but I could be wrong

davidr1963 said:

They weren’t very popular over here in the UK, only lasting two years (1988/9). They weren’t considered as good as the GPZ600 it replaced, the ZZR600 that came after it, or the Honda CBR600 which was released in the same year. That said, they were a very good bike, just not quite as good as the competition. Consequently, they can be picked up relatively cheaply and, more importantly, second hand parts are cheap.

If you are looking for something, it may be worth checking eBay UK as it may work out cheaper overall once shipping and duty have been added.

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I don't live in the UK my friend. I'm state side.