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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, finally got to take my bike, 81 GPZ1100 injected, for a nearly 1000kms ride this weekend.

The guy I brought it off had only put 1000kms on it over 16 yrs and looked like no maintenance was done, but then again, was only 1000kms!

When I first got it a month ago it felt like it had a slight surge in top at about 100kms, but not really an issue.
Yesterday when out riding in twisties, it cut out and picked up about 5 seconds later, by itself, no other issues.
Today on the way home it cut out, and coasted to a stop. It struggled to fire up, would fire then stall. Then when it started it ran rough and only idled and would'nt rev up, I checked the basics, visually, wiggled connections and the fuses. Fired it up, started ok, ran well.
Got about 5kms up the road, then stopped agin, did the same as above, away I went again.
The times it did this, I was giving it heaps, and was in twisties.
The third and last time it stopped I took it easy and went for about 15kms until I hit twisties again, and opened it up again.
This time it did'nt start and I loaded it on the trailer.
Also today when revving it to 7000rpm it jerked hard like either an electrical miss or running out of fuel.

I think the wiggling the fuses etc is purely coincedental, and the common factor seems to be when I'm riding it briskly and throwing it thru corners etc.

A couple of factors to consider, I tried 3 types of fuel over the weekend 91, 95, 98 unleaded octane. It felt best on 95, but was on 98 today.
Also the fuel filter looks old, like 16yrs. I have one on order and have tried to adapt one but could'nt get one to fit, so have used the old one till the other arrives. It does'nt look too bad, as I can see the fuel pumping thru it.
The pump seems to work fine too.

I'm thinking maybe the issue is fuel, or maybe wiring?
But seems funny that it conks out when riding fast and thru twisties,a nd with an on/off throttle action.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.
 

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Restricted fuel flow can sometimes be caused by a blocked or partially blocked fuel tank vent. The next time it starts having issues open the gas cap and see if it clears up. That will let you know if it's the vent or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cheers mate.

Been thinking about it overnight.

The conking out was after I'd done 30kms on a rough shingle, adventure type road, which shook the hell out of the bike, and at speeds of 30-80kph, so probably about 40mins total on quite bad shingle and pot holes.
So maybe more an electrical connection or component vibrating loose or earthing out?
 

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Assume the easy solution first...and it is the one mentioned by StarGate... possibly the fuel filter and also the fuel relief valve on the bottom of the tank...if none of these remedy your ills, then you must face the issue that troubled the early Kawasaki FI models (KZ1000G, Z1000H, and the (K)Z1100B1) and they were notorious for FI difficulties,,,if you have the KHI manual, there is a large section of the manual dedicated to electronic trouble-shooting.
 

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Cheers mate.

Been thinking about it overnight.

The conking out was after I'd done 30kms on a rough shingle, adventure type road, which shook the hell out of the bike, and at speeds of 30-80kph, so probably about 40mins total on quite bad shingle and pot holes.
So maybe more an electrical connection or component vibrating loose or earthing out?
I have been told that some of the KZ1100B1 FI issues had to do with the CPU being poorly mounted in the tail piece and that a bumpy road can cause the unit to shake loose and possibly damage the actual CPU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Seems my bike is the B2 model, is'nt that the better EFI one?

Pulled the tank etc last night, ECU looks to be secure and rubber mounted, looks like someone prior has done that.

Had a quick look at the tank and what looks like the vent hose underneath the tank, attached to a plastic small box thing underneath the tank is not hooked to anything, just the vent hose tucked in the chassis. Is that normal?

Will give it a good go over tonight re elctrics, connections etc.

Thanks for the replies.
 

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Seems my bike is the B2 model, is'nt that the better EFI one?

Pulled the tank etc last night, ECU looks to be secure and rubber mounted, looks like someone prior has done that.

Had a quick look at the tank and what looks like the vent hose underneath the tank, attached to a plastic small box thing underneath the tank is not hooked to anything, just the vent hose tucked in the chassis. Is that normal?

Will give it a good go over tonight re elctrics, connections etc.

Thanks for the replies.
If you have a 1981 then you have a B1 model...if your frame VIN is less than 10401, then you have a 1981...if > 10401, then you have a B2.
 

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I'm not positive on this model but that sounds like the drain hose they put on some models in case the fuel gauge sending unit springs a leak. Is the "plastic box" covering the area where the sending unit is installed in the tank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In the back of the Clymer service book I have, one of the prev owners wrote the model & B2.
So I had a look in the book and it has pictures & diagrams of all the fuel systems, and the B2 picture set up looks exactly like mine.
Has the idle speed adjuster knurl knob thingy on mine, not the one with the wire attached to it as on B1, according to the book.........

Stargate, yeah, the length of the hose would suggest that it is a drain hose, will get stuck in tonight and see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, just ordered a 4 into 1 system off Ebay from a dealer in Florida USA, with all flanges, brackets kit etc, $411 USD which includes $130 freight.
So prob, in our pesos about $500 NZD, which is staggeringly cheap. I reckon it would cost me over $1000 NZD if brought thru a dealer here.
 

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The black cover I believe you're talking about is a drain for the fuel level sensor in case the rubber gasket goes bad. It routes any gas away from possible ignition sources.

I'd also suggest going through the electrical connectors related to the FI system. The injectors fire at around 3 volts, and it won't take much corrosion to lower the signal.
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1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pinout


I have a 82 GPZ1100 B2 also. I got out my well used service manual and copied the wire pin-out if you are going to use the EFI system.


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks MFolks, will do.

KZ1100-B2 is what is written in the back of the book in the service history of the bike.
 

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The sensors(I believe 3) are:
1. Engine temperature sensor, located between the #1 and #2 cylinders by the throttle bodies on the intake side.The electrical conection is a male "bullet conector" on the sensor.

2. Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) located below the gas tank on the right side, has the letters "DFI" on it. It's a carbon resistor that varies a signal to the fuel injection computer by opening/closing the throttle. It requires periodic cleaning by having the engine off, remove the small wire clip holding the electrical cable, and spraying some electrical contact cleaner up inside while opening and closing the throttle. Use compressed air at low pressure to dry it out.

3.Air temperature sensor,located close to the main fuse holder,check for wiring being fatigued by vibration.

The injectors as I've mentioned above fire around 3 volts,and have their wiring held in place by similar clips used on the TPS, check the electrical connections too for corrosion.

The main pump relay is located under the left side cover below the seat,it has two electrical connectors, WHITE and BLACK, I believe the relay body will have a black mark or stripe indicating where the BLACK connector goes.

The fuel pump puts out 33 PSI at idle and as soon as the throttle is opened, the pressure will be 35 PSI. If you're replacing any pressurized fuel lines, make sure they are rated for FI use.
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Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:
Welcome to Waytek Wire
Susquehanna MotorSports - High Performance Vehicle Lighting and Competition Accessories
Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies







If you need more information, drop me a line............
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Checked it all out last night.
Pulled every electrical plug, connection, cleaned with electro cleaner, put all back together. Did find one plug, the red one down the side of the battery quite gunged up.
But don't think any of that was the problem, but was good anyway to clean them all up.

Did find under the tank the RH hose had fallen off the T piece that is connected both ends of the inj that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. So it obviously was sucking air into the reg or not letting it work ok.
It was a tight fit putting back on, so I would imagine that it was loose for some time and that the large hard excursion on pothole/shingle for a lot of kms finally shook it off, as all issues occurred after the shingle.

Put it all back together, fired up, ran sweet, only took it up the road, but seemed fine, so finger's crossed.

Thanks for all your help guys.:smile:
 

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I use the small "Ty-Wrap" cable tie or similar brand of cable bundler/organizer on my vacuum lines. I wrap the tie around the line, pull it as tight as I can, and then using needle nose pliers,grip the tail of the tie next to the head rotating it about 90 degrees.

This way will make things stay tight and not come off.
 
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