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10 Posts
What are the advantages of clamping on the airfilter cones to each intake hose rather then using the stock air filter assembly with a K&N filter?
air filter
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AIR PODS
IF you check out Freakinout he would most likely tell you...basically...IF you are going to modify your bike with freer flowing exhaust. do the carb modifications to get more fuel and air through them then yes you need to ballance the equasion with air pods to get the maximum airflow. THey look cool and they get dirtier easier (requiring more cleaning) but when you have a beast that needs to breath then you have to put on air pods. YOu could put them on anyway and then adjust your carbs with the stock exhaust...but there is no real reason or increased function.
IF you check out Freakinout he would most likely tell you...basically...IF you are going to modify your bike with freer flowing exhaust. do the carb modifications to get more fuel and air through them then yes you need to ballance the equasion with air pods to get the maximum airflow. THey look cool and they get dirtier easier (requiring more cleaning) but when you have a beast that needs to breath then you have to put on air pods. YOu could put them on anyway and then adjust your carbs with the stock exhaust...but there is no real reason or increased function.
PLUGS and AIRFILTER
Keeping your plugs clean (use the best ones) and your air filter clean, then do the oil changes keep fresh gas in your bike and ride it often and you will hardly ever see a problem with your bike. Winters and stroarg are the hardest on bikes. Fuel, even with STA-BIL breaks down, and you motor need to be turned over and run long enoug to get things up to normal temps...just putting STA-BIL and a battery Tender on your bike is not a good thing. The smartest thing that you can do is to leave fresh gas in it and start it and run it just like you would in the summer time. Tires get flat spots...cables need to be lubed...grease dries up...rubber dries out...
Keeping your plugs clean (use the best ones) and your air filter clean, then do the oil changes keep fresh gas in your bike and ride it often and you will hardly ever see a problem with your bike. Winters and stroarg are the hardest on bikes. Fuel, even with STA-BIL breaks down, and you motor need to be turned over and run long enoug to get things up to normal temps...just putting STA-BIL and a battery Tender on your bike is not a good thing. The smartest thing that you can do is to leave fresh gas in it and start it and run it just like you would in the summer time. Tires get flat spots...cables need to be lubed...grease dries up...rubber dries out...
Joined
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10 Posts
thanks for the tips.
I am probably going to go with the stock airbox, since I don't have any performance mods, as for my carbs, they need cleaned as it is so it will be a bit of timebefore they can be tuned for higher flow
I am probably going to go with the stock airbox, since I don't have any performance mods, as for my carbs, they need cleaned as it is so it will be a bit of timebefore they can be tuned for higher flow
AIR FILTER
You can use the K&N airfilter in your airbox...but follow the insrtuctions and re-oil it like ou are supposed to...Purchase the cleaning kit at Auto Zone, O'Riellys, Pep Boys...the exact filter should be bought at the Kawasaki dealer.Just buy the BEST plugs that you can buy and use top rate gas not the cut rate gas. When I worked at Standard Oil years ago, it was taken back to a place and they added additives to it and "rejuvinated it" and then it was resold. I don't know who to, but I do know that the excess every 6 weeks or so was replenished. Standard/American/BP (now) takes the forecasted weather and formulates for things such as heat and humidity...that's all I remember from my classes when I went to school back 36 years ago. The other thing is that once you get the bike, not before, go to pure synthetic oil, as per your manual. Read up on the oils, and go with one that they use in aircraft, from hot tarmacs, runways, ramps and hot, hot, ot the extreme colds that are present at 40,000' ASL. You want the best, make a pass through an airport hangar where they service aircraft. Personally, I use AMSOIL in everything from my truck, to my weed-eater. just know that good/best oil does not require changes as early as crude oil does, but keep it clean, anyway.
You can use the K&N airfilter in your airbox...but follow the insrtuctions and re-oil it like ou are supposed to...Purchase the cleaning kit at Auto Zone, O'Riellys, Pep Boys...the exact filter should be bought at the Kawasaki dealer.Just buy the BEST plugs that you can buy and use top rate gas not the cut rate gas. When I worked at Standard Oil years ago, it was taken back to a place and they added additives to it and "rejuvinated it" and then it was resold. I don't know who to, but I do know that the excess every 6 weeks or so was replenished. Standard/American/BP (now) takes the forecasted weather and formulates for things such as heat and humidity...that's all I remember from my classes when I went to school back 36 years ago. The other thing is that once you get the bike, not before, go to pure synthetic oil, as per your manual. Read up on the oils, and go with one that they use in aircraft, from hot tarmacs, runways, ramps and hot, hot, ot the extreme colds that are present at 40,000' ASL. You want the best, make a pass through an airport hangar where they service aircraft. Personally, I use AMSOIL in everything from my truck, to my weed-eater. just know that good/best oil does not require changes as early as crude oil does, but keep it clean, anyway.
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