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So I went into the dealer today to make a final decision on what Bike I wanted to Purchase. I had a choice between the 650R and The ZZR600. I chose the Black ZZR.
I;m trying to get the salesman to go below 6,000 if not a flat 6,000. This bike is in mint condition and its an 08'. Zero miles never been ridden. He tells me the lowest out the door price he could give me would be 6150 out the door. I'm a bit stubborn so I explain I'm not willing to go past 6. So after a bit of haggling I was going in circles with him on the price. Seemed as if he wouldn't budge. So I pulled the ol' "thank you for your time, but I am not willing to go any higher". and walked away. so I guess Im asking, do You think he'll call me back? lol. Or should I stick my tail between my legs and take the offer?
 

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I understand that it is a new bike with no miles but the second you take ownership the Suggested Retail Value is $4425 according to Kelly Blue Book. So understand you will be upside down if you plan on trading it in the next couple years.
 

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They can do better than that.

Find one for sale at another dealer's web site that has a lower price (or a few of them if you can), take the print outs to the sales manager (not the sales rep) and tell him if he can beat or match the lowest price you find (has to be the exact same bike), he has your business. If he won't budget, politely ask him why he isn't able to be as competitive as the other dealers. If you don't like his answer, thank him, walk out, and keep looking. This tactic has saved me about $2200 in my last two bike purchases.

Good luck!
 

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Yeah, don't be afraid to pit multiple dealers against each other. That's how I always buy a new car.
 

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bigger cities have more competition, aka better prices
 

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I understand that it is a new bike with no miles but the second you take ownership the Suggested Retail Value is $4425 according to Kelly Blue Book. So understand you will be upside down if you plan on trading it in the next couple years.

To the OP. I think that is the key point. If a rider is planning to do what I do - keep the bike until it's junk - resale and blue book mean nothing, with the exception when one has a bike stolen or totalled and insurance pays out. So it's a gamble to an extent. But for people like me - keep 'em forever - the lower price non-current is a good buy. For a friend that gets something different every few years a newer model is a better buy. But still you lose a couple grand on either one due to depreciation, which bike do you like best?
 

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They can do better than that.

Find one for sale at another dealer's web site that has a lower price (or a few of them if you can), take the print outs to the sales manager (not the sales rep) and tell him if he can beat or match the lowest price you find (has to be the exact same bike), he has your business. If he won't budget, politely ask him why he isn't able to be as competitive as the other dealers. If you don't like his answer, thank him, walk out, and keep looking. This tactic has saved me about $2200 in my last two bike purchases.

Good luck!
First off, as a former salesperson I can tell you web and print ads mean nothing to me. They can print whatever they want. The only way you get the lowballer's total price is when you have your name on a contract and are stuck. I remember a deal where we had a CBR929 at about 10,000 out the door. Our bike price was about $9200 plus freight/prep, document fee, tax, title fees equalling $10,000. The guy went to a place where the bike was advertised at 8199, 250 miles away in another state. After he got his bargain he saveed $3 - YES THREE DOLLARS over what we quoted him. He got screwed for a 500 mile trip and what good will he would have had buying at our shop. For three dollars. When it's too good to believe, you better do some research.

I recommend people shop around and try to get some real prices if possible at a variety of places. Some will not do this without money down or papers signed - that's binding! I've known of a dealer in Ohio who would take people to court for breach of contract if they didn't complete the sale. So be wary in discount dealerships. To finish the thought, know where you'd like to buy and figure what it might be worth over and above others if that dealer wants to price higher. Then when you know what the market is like and what might buy elsewhere, go to that dealer and present what you want to do, knowing they might want a bit more if they're a top notch dealer. Then when the dealing is done is it worth the extra they may want - or you may just get what you want.

Obviously the price given was apparently within what you would be willing to pay, otherwise you wouldn't ask about going back. Also no dealer of any decency would look any different at you for going back. All I would think is that you tested the market and found out 1) we are a good dealership and 2) the price was reasonable enough for you to buy. I'd have been glad to see you come back - no embarassment or "tail between legs". Just a good place to be.

Now go see if that's a good price. Go to another dealership with a check written for $6000 "noted payment in full" and see if they'll take it.
 

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the bike (2008 model) has been sitting for an extended time. Any rubber, seals, etc may need replacing sooner (drying out) than a new (2010 model) bike. Something to think about. An extended warranty may be a thought here. Also check EBAY, good place to see who has what!
 

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the bike (2008 model) has been sitting for an extended time. Any rubber, seals, etc may need replacing sooner (drying out) than a new (2010 model) bike. Something to think about. An extended warranty may be a thought here. Also check EBAY, good place to see who has what!
Usually they don't fill the bikes with any fluids until its bought (at least around here)...seals will be fine if that is the case. I'd be more concerned about low mile used bikes from that point of view.
 

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I'd wait a day or two and call back and ask if they are willing to take your offer. If not,and the bike is what you want, they are only asking 2.5% more than you offered. Don't let 2.5% stand between you and happiness!
 

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First off, as a former salesperson I can tell you web and print ads mean nothing to me. They can print whatever they want. The only way you get the lowballer's total price is when you have your name on a contract and are stuck.
Apparently then, different dealers operate in different ways. Your history with the dealership also comes into play during one of these transactions. I've purchased bikes from four different dealers in my lifetime. Inevitably, I always get the best price from the dealer from whom I've bought 8 bikes from over the years. No surprise there. But they aren't offended when I bring in a competitor's ad, and it always supplies me with some leverage for OTD pricing. Most often they will jack up the trade-in price or knock off the set up fees.

As far as ads and paperwork goes, you don't need a contract in hand. I've gone in with ads, as well as OTD quotes from other dealers, and both worked wonders in getting the sales manager to come down from what was previously "the absolute lowest price we can offer." Hell, just last summer, I took in a ad from hondadirectline.com for an extended warranty I wanted to get on my '09 Goldwing. The dealer wanted $750. The ad was for $350. The sales manager matched it without blinking. The same dealer did the same thing after seeing a quote from another dealer on that Wing and I saved nearly $1,400 on an identical bike.

To the OP, Don't be afraid to pit them against each other. There is always room to haggle, especially in this day of hold backs and the sour economy affecting sales on purchases of items likes bikes, boats, jet ski's, and four-wheelers. We are the customer, we are in control, and we have the power of the Internet and competition to make them do better. And they still sell plenty of bikes. :cool:
 
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