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Discussion Starter #1
I have checked the posts and havent seen anything that resembles the problem I am having. When turning the key I am getting the FI Light on and stays that way and the bike will not start. If I cycle the key off and then on slowly after a few attemps it will eventually act normal and cycle the fuel pump and then the light goes out and the bike will start. I have had the tank off and checked the fuel pump and seems to be fine and I did replace the relay at the end of the season last year. This has happened before but very intermittingly but seems to be happening more so that not. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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Sounds to me like the ECU is not getting a verified code from the chip within the key consistantly.

First I would try one of your other keys.

What exact model is your bike ?
How many miles ?

We need to extract any Fi codes from the ECU which may give you an indication of the fault.

There is an Immobiliser Aerial & Amplifier in this circuit both of which could be playing up.

Could also be a faulty Ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OOpps! Sorry about that! Its a 2000 Vulcan 1500 Classic FI and it has around 63,000 miles on it. I did try and extract the codes but had trouble getting it to work. I have the manual and also went by how a member said to do it but must have been missing a step cause I would never get anything to happen!
 

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Ahh it won't have the chipped key or associated Immobiliser components then.

With that many miles if would suspect the Ignition switch has seen better days.

I'll dig out some Fi info on your model and post back later as i'm a work hard at it :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ahh it won't have the chipped key or associated Immobiliser components then.

With that many miles if would suspect the Ignition switch has seen better days.

I'll dig out some Fi info on your model and post back later as i'm a work hard at it :mrgreen:
Thank you so much! This has been a real head banger for me! Ill be looking foreward to your reply!
 

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I will rule out the key if you are getting the FI light.
This is going to involve some troubleshooting, so be prepared.
1. Check fuel pump harness plug carefully for corrosion and poor contact. If OK,
2. Turn on key, check the white/red on fuel pump side of the connector for
12v. If OK,
3. Check black/white, not on fuel pump side, for 12v. If OK, leave probe here
4. Turn off key, turn back on, should be at ground for 2 to 3 seconds, then go
up to 12v. Pump must be plugged in for steps 1-5.
5. While you are here and with key on and the fuel pump does not cycle, (you have to be quick as it is only active for a second or two) tap on it with the butt end of a screwdriver. If it takes off, then you have nailed it!

I am going to guess at two potential problems... bad connection at fuel pump harness or fuel pump itself is bad.

Post back with your findings and any questions.
 

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I'll go with sfair's Troubleshoot to see what results you get.

I still got ma money on the Ignition swith tho :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll go with sfair's Troubleshoot to see what results you get.

I still got ma money on the Ignition swith tho :)
Thanks guys! I will try to do the steps this weekend! Im pretty sure the harness is ok because when I checked the fuel pump at the end of last season it looked fine to me but will give it another go!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I did all the troubleshooting that the both of you guys agreed that I should do. all of the voltages checked out ok, the time I cycled the switch off and then on I wasnt sure what you ment about be at ground but the voltage dropped to like .3 and then rose back up to 12 volts. The harness looks perfect! Since I have done this the problem only occured once so I am leaving the tank propped up and will occasionally go out and wait for it to not run the pump and will tap on it to see if it kicks the pump on.
Any way to test the switch?:confused:
 

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The time that the voltage dropped to .3v, did the pump run?
That test is the one that is important. Leave your meter connected and what you are looking for is:
1. The voltage does not drop to .3v when you first turn on key, or
2. Never goes back up to 12v after the 3 second cycle.

By the way, .3v is OK, just the forward voltage drop of the driver.
What we are trying to do is prove out if the problem is the pump or the ECU. Guesswork here could prove to be costly!
 

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Here is something you can do to speed up the process:
1. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
2. Disconnect fuel pump from main harness.
3. Run a jumper wire from fuel pump black/white to battery ground.
4. Run a jumper wire from fuel pump white/red to near battery positive.
5. Lower tank back to its home postion.
6. Touch the jumper to battery positive and pump should run.
7. Keep releasing, touching to positive battery and listening for pump.

What this will attempt to do is look for a dead spot in the pump motor.
It is important to lower the tank back down so that it is sitting in its normal operating position. I would repeat this quite a few times to give it a good test.

Post back with your findings
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is something you can do to speed up the process:
1. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
2. Disconnect fuel pump from main harness.
3. Run a jumper wire from fuel pump black/white to battery ground.
4. Run a jumper wire from fuel pump white/red to near battery positive.
5. Lower tank back to its home postion.
6. Touch the jumper to battery positive and pump should run.
7. Keep releasing, touching to positive battery and listening for pump.

What this will attempt to do is look for a dead spot in the pump motor.
It is important to lower the tank back down so that it is sitting in its normal operating position. I would repeat this quite a few times to give it a good test.

Post back with your findings
Ok, I did the voltage test again and yes the pump runs when I turn the key back on and the voltage drops and after the pump stops running the voltage returns to 12v. I have been cycling the switch on and off and now the pump works every time! Man do I hate these intermitten things! The only thing I can think of is the wiring around the harness may have a bad spot somewhere or maybe the connection was not that good by the harness and when I disconnected and then reconnected it to visually check the condition it seated better! Very confused at this moment!
 

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The only thing I can suggest is reconnect everything, keep the tank propped up, turn on key and during the normal 2 second pump run, tug and wiggle the pump and main harness. If it starts and stops in the middle of the cycle, then... we can go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One other thing would be to remove the ECU connectors, look for corrosion and then reseat.
Thats kind of what I was thinking. I will do that and also try the ecu and check it for corrosion! Thanks a million for all your help! Wish it was just a cut and dry thing and was an easy fix! Just hope it doesnt decide to not start when out on the road, its just a bit too big to push!! lol
 

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Just hope it doesnt decide to not start when out on the road, its just a bit too big to push!! lol
That is why I was trying to see if we could force the fault to appear, because I would be worried about riding any farther than I could push until it is located.
Guess work usually just makes one poor and the bike is still not repaired!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That is why I was trying to see if we could force the fault to appear, because I would be worried about riding any farther than I could push until it is located.
Guess work usually just makes one poor and the bike is still not repaired!
Ok, this bike is really starting to tick me off! The whole time we were conversing about what to check and I would check it the pump ran all but 1 time. Today now that its all put together the **** thing is acting up again frequently! (sorry had to vent) I think the next thing will be pull the tank off and see if there is maybe a loose connection on the fuel pump. Im also going to check the cdu for corrosion like you stated before. Do you have any idea how I can check the ignition swith out?
 

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Go to the junction box, find the ignition fuse, remove, slip a small wire into one contact and then replace fuse. Connect your meter semi-permanently and watch for 12v as you cycle key. If fuel pump does not run but you still have 12v here, it is not the key.
If this proves OK, locate the DFI fuse and do the same thing.

Post back.
 

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One other place to look is behind the rear clyinder, at the harness. There is a nylock there, and this nylock has a release tab, so don't cut the nylock, open it.

Visually inspect the harness where it turns down to pass that rear clyinder.

What says this is worth the looking is that things are better with the tank lifted and worse with the tank down.

The same wires sfair is talking about run thru there. Chaffing there is a common fault.
 
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