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Discussion Starter #1
Well, Some may remember my issues with my 91 zx1100 and for those who are just now hearing about this, my 91 zx11 was burning oil horribly well I took it to a shop for a proper diagnoses and found out that my piston rings are shot. Found a 96 zx11 motor with 7000 miles on it for 900 dollars but Im not feeling that because I dont know the history of that motor. I have another guy getting a list of parts for me to buy and he is going to rebuild the entire motor for about 200-400 dollars. So what parts will I need to rebuild this thing. I would like to compare the lists that he gives me to one that someone else gives me so I know I got all the parts. I know I need new piston kits, bottom end bearings kit, whole engine gasket kits. maybe some valves, valves guides. am i missing anything? thanks in advance
 

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How many miles on your engine. If it's low, maybe you could consider rebuilding the top end. I wouldn't do this on a high mile bike but have done it in the past on a bike that was too quick to wear out the rings. Just a thought as there are many different ideas on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
its got 23k and Kawasaki doesnt make a complete rebuild kit, atleast Ive never heard of it and every Kawasaki dealer looks at me funny when I ask for one, they have never heard of one of them either. They have top end kits, but nothing for the entire engine.
 

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That's pretty low mileage. I would say a top end kit is in order. That's what I would do if it was mine. If you are not out thrashing the motor the crank and rod bearings should be good. You rings should have lasted far longer than they did. If the kit doesn't come with new cylinders make sure you get yours cleaned up by a machine shop, line bore is in order for sure. Good luck with it which ever way you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The guy I am sending it to is going to do all the machineing for me so thats all good. I am just concerned about the bearings and such because the rings went out with such low mileage. If they went out so soon, what is the condition of the bears and seals? I would hate myself terribly if I replaced the rings and did the top of the engine and failed to do the bearings and seals on the bottom and find out that they are shot too and then I am back into tearing the motor down and spending a lot of money to fix that. I would rather just do it all while its apart. Its not gonna cost that much extra to just replace the bears and such. A couple hundred extra for that now or over a grand later? And I dont know if it is true but the guy I am sending the bike to says that (maybe: hes not too sure though) the cylinders are made of nickle something or other and that they dont need to be bored because they are so hard, just a slight hone to clean it up a bit would do just fine. Does anyone know for sure what the cylinders are made of in a 91 zx1100c? I appreciate the help guys, I just cant wait to get this thing back running, she is a blast to ride. I am trying to get out to bike week at mrytle beach again.
 

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Eddie Lawson is God!
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I hate to be rude, but if your guy doesn't know if the cylinders are chrome or iron lined, he ain't QUALIFIED to do your motor.

You need at a minimum:
1. Full gasket set. $250 Kawasaki
2. Four first over rings and pistons $500 Wiseco Similar $300 to machine.
3. Camchain, guides and tensioner $350 Kawasaki
4. Water pump, $200
5. Valve stem oil seals, and a three angle valve job. $400
This does not count disassembly, inspection and reassembly of the clutch and transmission.

Buy the used motor and do valve seals on the ground.
 

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Spinach Eating Moderator
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Mark brings up a really good point.

I'd be inclined to do just as he suggests, besides, what have you got to lose?

Even if your guy will be able to competently rebuild your engine for 200, the parts alone will run you as much or more as that other engine, and you'll still have just the one engine.

Chances are very good you'll be able to do the valve seals and pop the other engine in much faster, and cheaper, plus you'll still have an entire engine full of perfectly good spare parts (except for the rings). :D
 

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Kawasaki used chrome liners many moons ago as I had a friend that raced and was always upset about the liners on his bike when it came time for a top end. He would have to get the old liner pressed out and a new one pressed in. He kept two or three spare heads ready to go at all times. I couldn't tell you what you have, maybe someone here with a little more experience could. If they are chrome you will have to replace them as they can't be reworked. The bike I am referring to was a KX250 moto cross.
 

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I'm 99.85% sure that's a nikasil or equivalent bore, so unless you ran sand through there or seized the motor, all you need is a light hone and a new set of rings. Pistons should be miced and if the ring lands are out of spec, they should be replaced as well. Your two biggest spots to burn oil are the rings, and the valve seals. Replacing those will probably cure your problems. Unless you need to get into the bottom end, don't. They're good for 100K unless you've abused them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, thanks for the advice, but I dont doubt the mans work, he builds motors for a team that drag races out at the drag strip right up the road and they swear by him so I am confident in him. I really hate when I have a decision to weigh. Buy the engine, I got a good engine but I am unsure as to the history of that engine. Who is to say that the guy who had the engine before me didnt drag race that bike all the time? The other shop says that the place where they are getting the engine never puts out a motor that isnt 100% He says he has never put a new used engine in a bike and had it come back because of a problem but then again, there is a first time for everything. If I just buy all the parts to rebuild, I know what I got. I know I got fresh parts that have never been used or abused so it is then up to me how the engine turns out. If I abuse it then its my fault or I can take care of it and make it last for many years and many miles. Elr gave me a price esitmate on parts but I wonder if it is possible to reuse much of the old parts, such as the cam chain and tensioners, water pump, pistons (assuming they are in good condition, if not, then you know) Or are those items that should be replaced while the engine is opened? The engine runs great except for the fact my rings and valve seals/guides are gone. Would it be wise to just replace the rings and valve seals guides and have the machine work done on the head and cylinders? I really enjoy this bike and want to get it back running but I dont want to spend an arm and a leg on it. It just isnt worth the money if its more than 1500 to fix.
 

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Old Man Riding
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I like the idea of buying the other engine, and having all those extra parts - especially if you plan to keep the bike for a few years. That's one pretty bike, so I'm thinking you'll be hanging onto it for awhile.

Not sure if I missed it, but does the seller of that engine give any type of warranty? At least 30 days? Of can you hear it run before purchasing it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Honestly, I do not know. I didnt ask for a warranty but it comes from a respectable place so I would imagine there would be at least a 7 day warranty to give you a chance to check it out but not sure exactly. I do know that the engine is not in a bike right now so hearing it run would probably not be an option. They swear that it is a perfectly good engine with no problems what so ever. It is not a local engine, it is a little too far to go look at it. It would have to be shipped over night., Oh and you said it was pretty bike, I think your refering to the one in the picture, sadly, it is not my bike. That is just a bike I found on ebay for 25,000 large ones. I dont have a camera to take a pic of my bike so I get pics off the internet. I wish that one was mine though, that would be too sweet
 

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AZ's Official Mechanic
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looking at the site i use to get my part #'s you could do new liners if ya want. i dont know if they are nikasil or not, if they are then have the machinist mic them and make sure they are in spec, if they are just put new piston/rings/pin along with new gaskets...... if they are not, replace liners and youll have a new motor on top. as said before the bottom end should be good for 100k easy unless you wheelie alot then #3 rod dies on ya (unless ya do the muzzy mod)

11007 LINER-CYLINDER
11007-1114 4 @ $69.25

11009 GASKET,CYLINDER BASE
11009-1847 1 @ $15.29

13008 RING-SET-PISTON,STD
13008-1127 4 @ $35.52

13002 PIN-PISTON
13002-1058 4 @ $11.01

13001 PISTON-ENGINE,STD
13001-1342 4 @ $54.36

92055 RING-O,82.6X2.4
92055-1465 4 @ $2.47
 

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Discussion Starter #18
what exactly is the "muzzy mod" i have heard a few people mention a muzzy big bore kit, what is that all about and how much. If it cost the about the same to do that as it does to replace the original but gives more power then why not?
 
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