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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
did not think about it could be rubbing /shorting out with anouther wire that is ground . I have run out of fuses. been reading your old post and the one about the battery shorting out so will check the battery too. still playing with try to post pic thanks
 

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did not think about it could be rubbing /shorting out with anouther wire that is ground . I have run out of fuses. been reading your old post and the one about the battery shorting out so will check the battery too. still playing with try to post pic thanks
I would check the ignition switch as corey said. The white wire should only have current when plugged in because it is the charging wire. Also follow that wire and see if it shorted anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
been tracing and unhooking wire and foung that the accessory terminals near back on left side that they were hook together ????? on the front of bayou is another set of accessory wire that are not hook together. will run and everything is working. now to put it back together. THANKS to every one wo help.
 

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After uploading the image to photobucket you can just click the IMG option that photobucket gives you, then copy and paste that hear. There is also a button on these forums on the top of the quick reply box that looks like a mountain postcard. To use that copy the direct link into the box that pops up and it will give you the correct URL.
 

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thatll do it hookin a power to grond lol.glad to hear you found the problem. use black tape to put the harness back to the frame.it will not chaf the harness like those wire ties do. have fun and be safe -corey-
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
<a href="http://s672.photobucket.com/albums/vv82/landlord3167/?action=view&current=4wheelerfix001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv82/landlord3167/4wheelerfix001.jpg" border="0" alt="bayou put back together"></a>
yes, white wire is hot. will solder and heat shink so i do not have any problems.
 

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Try this trouble
only the one pic showed up. did the fuse still pop while everything was diconnected?

if it didnt hook one thing back up at a time till the fuse blows.and thatll be your issue.

but if it still popped then a wire in the harness is touchin a ground wire. you can have the wirein off the frame but ther are still ground wires in the harness that can cause this issue if they are exposed.look for a pinched spot in the harness it may be where the harness ties where.good luck -corey-
shoting guide:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1. Charge your battery if you can.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is caig.com - Home of DeoxIT - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
Try this troubleshoting guide:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1. Charge your battery if you can.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is caig.com - Home of DeoxIT - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
Has anyone tried this to see how it works?
 
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