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The best source of the step by step directions is the repair manual. They are just too lengthy to post here.

There are two clutches, one centrifugal and one that is actuated by a pivot on the shift linkage. The pivot for the shift actuated disengagement of the manual clutch that should not be fiddled with during the disassembly, and a lot of folks inadvertently unbolt it from the case and then wonder how to get it back where it belongs. Also, steer clear of semipermanent case sealers like Yamabond, as that will create nightmares for you the next time around. Use OEM type gaskets and sealants when you put it back together. And, yes oil will drain out of the side covers when you remove them, seems everyone asks that question the first time they take one apart.

Be careful with the bolts and torque values. Snap one off in the case and you have turned a two bit issue into a major problem. It is really a good idea to have the manual so you use the correct torque values.

Lastly, 99% of the time there is nothing wrong with the frictions or steels in the manually activated clutch, they are just gunked up from using automotive oils and need cleaning. I have only seen one broken centrifugal clutch in 30 years, so they generally never need any service. So, do not run out and buy parts until you have cleaned and inspected what you have.

If you take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com they will give you an idea of the layout of the parts. If you have worked on dual clutch type motorcycles or ATV's in the past, this is not much different.
 
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