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Discussion Starter #1
hi,

I have a bayou 220 a2 with some problems that are related. When the engine is cold, it starts fine but, after 3 min of idling it dies and wont start up again till it cools down. Sounds like something is blocked?? Also, I have a dry fouling problem I have set the fuel air mixture right and it still dry fouls the plug.

I dont have a compression tester to check compression, what brand etc do ya'll use to check it??
 

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hello countryboy have you set the valve lash in the machine lately?and also do you have spark when it dies out on you,have you cleaned the carb out good and check to see if your breather lines are plugged up,try removeing your gas cap when it dies out and listen to see if you hear a vacume sound when removeing the cap if you do you have a plugged breather line and for (dri foul) is the porcelin at the electrod end red or what color is it but by the sounds of it if you adjust the air/fuel screw and it does not change how it runs you prolly got a passage in the carb plugged up use a good cleaner and compressed air to clean out every orfice in the carb,and for a compression tester it a standard gauge but you may have to purchase a smaller thread in for you machine good luck let us know if we can help out ne more-corey-
 

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Dry fouling means that the plug tip is coated with a black fluffy and sooty carbon that is completely dry. That is always from gasoline fouling, which is the result of more fuel than the incoming air will support for clean combustion.

The advice you got on setting your valve lash is good. However, I would pull the coil and have it tested to be sure it is not breaking down under load.

A weak coil will not generate enough spark to completely ignite the fuel mixture at the proper time, and will result in dry fouling. It is like running with severely retarded timing, the fuel ignites so late that it just soots the works. A coil going bad will also generally start to fail completely after it has run a while and starts to build heat load.
 

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well before we go there was your coil check out as rcw stated in previous post?but when u adjust valves you have to remove the side cover a timing cover on the left side of bike cam cover and valve covers you have to line up timing marks at top dead center(tdc) both valves closed and the useing a millameter style feeler gauge measure beteewn adjuster screw and valve tip----intake 0.10-0.15 mm exhaust 0.15-0.20 mm cold and also have you had the carb cleaned out?-corey-
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Discussion Starter #9
update

ok guys here the update

I replaced the coil, it does run a little better but, after about 2 min of idling it died. Same problem :frown: Im going to clean the carburetor and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well I cleaned the carb. out, put a new plug in, and then rode for a little after about 5 min of riding it sounds like its missing. Guess its time to set valve lashing, unless theres something else I should try still.
 

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well good to hear you got er running again now did u set the air flow screw up correctly 1 1/2 out from all the way in (tight)then hold the trottle up a little and adjust it out to get max rpms while in throttle 1/3 to 1/4 will do of throtle and is the plug gaped correctly i hate to ask that one but just checkin does it mis at higher rpms or at idle?or in mid throttle?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes I have plug gapped right and I have fuel/air mix 1 1/2 turns from tight

I am playing with the throttle screw, is it 1/3 to 1/4 turn from all the way tight or????

I was riding it for about 7 min. and it sputters a lot especially in 1st gear higher speeds not a lot. Then stopped it put it neutral and it died. Im going to let it cool down and pull the plug and see if that black dry fouling is still accruing. I have a bayou repair manual on order so I can time it and all.
 

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ok you will have to adjust the air flow screw while running and hold the trottle open about 1/4 throttle so rpms are up off base idle and then turn the screw out a little bit at a time till you hear the rpms of the engine change it will get faster. if you go to far it will sag or break up on go .i think your timimg is ok ,do u have fresh 93octane fuel in your bike? and if so does it flow nice out of the tank when u pull the hose off the petcok. sounds like lack of fuel issue or its vapor locking in the fuel line try removeing you gas cap next time it dies out and listen for a hiss soound if you have a hiss sound check the breather line to see if it pluged and also is the float set correctly if its to high set itll starve for fuel if to low to much fuel will be going in and fouling the plug out--air flow screw not set properly will do the same -corey-
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the float set correctly if its to high set itll starve for fuel if to low to much fuel will be going in and fouling the plug out--air flow screw not set properly will do the same -corey-
How do I check to see if the floats are set too high?

I have never used high octane in small vehicles(lawn tractors, motorcycles etc)
I was told by uncle that it would burn the piston or seize it. Ive always used fresh 87 oct. with some sea foam added.
 

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well i have never heard of higher octane buring up a piston or siezeing it up .on higher compression motors like atvs it is required to use a high grade gas 93 octane up to 110 my buddies 450 susuki says it right on the cap 93 or higher if you use a high octane fuel in a low compression engine it will not harm it it will carbon up due to not enough pressure in the cylinder plus itll burn it faster and its just a waste of money on lower comp engines will not gain nothing from the high test fuel,but on setting floats if your have the manual itll give you a measurement of how far the floats to hang down but i done this so many times i can do it by eye just take the carb out and take the float bowl off and hold the carb up level so the float hangs open look acroos the floats they should be level across not hang to the up postion or hangin down lower than level if they are not level adjust the little tand that the float needle sets on untill its level and when you cleaned the carb out did you use compressed air to blow out all the passages and jetslet us know what u come up with well get er figures out yet -corey-
 

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Discussion Starter #16
alright Im back to working on my 4 wheeler and I think the timing has been advanced too much, there is a excessive popping noise from the muffler.
 

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when does it pop when letting off the accelerater or while idleing?and also the other thing that would cause poping would be a bad carb set up or blockage ,did you adjust the float?and also does it stay running now and not dieing out and how is the power of the motor good?or sluggish?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yes it does idle alot better but, the plug is still wet fouling but not as bad. I will adjust the float. it pops whens its idling.
 

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sounds like trhe carb is still dirty and also check the intake manifold the rubber boot at the head the oring sometimes split or it gets worn out and while your at it see if its warped take straight edge to it at the part that goes to the headand if thats ok replace that oring and soak that carb in some sea foam for a day and then blow it all out with compressed air make sure your take out all the jets etc so that seafoam can work its magic on the blockage your making progresss dont get frustrated these carbs are finiky things this is y the plug is wet foulin still or you do not have good compression in the cylinder that is the only 2 things that can cause wet foullin besides lack of spark -corey-
 

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i have a kawaski 250 bayou and it crankes right up but when you go to give it some trottle it dies but after that it will fire right up. can you tell me what it might be
 
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